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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 08-03-2010, 06:21 PM
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What are you using for a track locater? You need to leave enough room between the tires and the frame and outside fender lip. Remember when you round a corner the body will roll a bit and depending what you are using, as the rear axle goes up and down it might move side to side a bit, as with pan hard bar type locater. The deminisions I gave in the previous post were only safe suggestions.

In my opinion, I'd never work on a rear frame with out the body being installed. As a matter of fact, I'd put new body mounts on before I'd start on the narrowing job. The body will help hold the frame rails where they belong.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 77bronco_ed
Outside bulge to outside bulge...I was going to allow .5" of clearance from inner wheel lip per side. Do I need to add anything extra since they will not be under the weight of the vehicle?

2" clearance bulge to frame, that sounds like quite a bit... I was thinking 1" was conservative. Why so much? there should not be any items protruding from frame rail near tires. I'll need to move the frame inboard at least 2.5" per side inboard.

backspacing is 5" on 15 inch wide rims


-Ed

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 08-03-2010, 06:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 68NovaSS
Browse the Project Journals and Photo Albums, there's lots of information and pictures there.

Here's a link to my Photo Album, I show back-halving an older Nova, for 18.5 tires. Not the same as a Bronco, but gives some ideas for the frame rails.

http://www.hotrodders.com/gallery/sh...00/ppuser/4147
Nice build!
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 08-03-2010, 07:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Overdriv
What are you using for a track locater? You need to leave enough room between the tires and the frame and outside fender lip. Remember when you round a corner the body will roll a bit and depending what you are using, as the rear axle goes up and down it might move side to side a bit, as with pan hard bar type locater. The deminisions I gave in the previous post were only safe suggestions.

In my opinion, I'd never work on a rear frame with out the body being installed. As a matter of fact, I'd put new body mounts on before I'd start on the narrowing job. The body will help hold the frame rails where they belong.
I have a Panhard bar, purchased along with the 4 link set up
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 08-04-2010, 11:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 77bronco_ed
I have a Panhard bar, purchased along with the 4 link set up

I have a pro-street S10 with a 4-link and a panhard bar. I have about 2", maybe 1 3/4" between my tires and the frame rails. They have never touched the frame. Can you go closer, probably.
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 08-04-2010, 03:54 PM
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Here are some pictures of my S10.
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 08-04-2010, 05:21 PM
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Thanks for the pics of the S10...
I wanted to take particular note of the pick up bed...

As far as width If I move the frame rails inboard 1 width of the frame I can accomodate the clearance everyone has mentioned.

Now for the z height... How much clearance do you have between the rear and the bottom of the bed floor it self. I want to keep the bed looking as stock as possible. After looking into some dimensions, when using larger tires I think one may have to choose from a "slammed" height versus keeping the original appearance of the pickup bed.

My intentions are to try to keep the stock appearance of the bed. Cutting out what is needed to nicely tuck the modified frame and wheels under a tub that is similar in appearance to the stock set up. I think the clearance between the rear and the pick up bed is the limit on lowering. (Is this correct?)

As far as the tubs... I may have to slice up the original to widen, lengthen and possibly change the height. but I want folks to have to take a second look.

I put a reference frame in cad and have been playing with some of the key dimensions.

Did you make the rear section yourself? In looking at the rails offered I do not think they would allow for the stock look I am after. If I have the dimensions of the rail shape is it reasonable to have the tube bent up?
Looks like you created the whole rear setup.
(Perhaps I may go this route if getting rectangulat tube bent is to expensive

Nice truck...

Thanks,

-Ed

Last edited by 77bronco_ed; 08-04-2010 at 05:39 PM.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 08-04-2010, 07:25 PM
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You're welcome.

I used a S&W welded back half, which allowed me to maintain the stock bed floor. The tubs were fabricated. Frame rails are 24" apart. Rear housing to bed floor clearance is probably 6-8". Shock compression travel is only 3" so there is plenty of room. I could drop my shocks down another set of holes and still have room, but I'm satisfied with it's stance now. So yes, if you want to maintain the stock bed height and floor, you will need to watch that clearance closely.

As said before the MT 31X18.5X15 tires fit well and rub nowhere no matter what I'm doing with it, with about 2" clearance between them and the frame rails and about 1" clearance on the outside.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 77bronco_ed
Thanks for the pics of the S10...
I wanted to take particular note of the pick up bed...

As far as width If I move the frame rails inboard 1 width of the frame I can accomodate the clearance everyone has mentioned.

Now for the z height... How much clearance do you have between the rear and the bottom of the bed floor it self. I want to keep the bed looking as stock as possible. After looking into some dimensions, when using larger tires I think one may have to choose from a "slammed" height versus keeping the original appearance of the pickup bed.

My intentions are to try to keep the stock appearance of the bed. Cutting out what is needed to nicely tuck the modified frame and wheels under a tub that is similar in appearance to the stock set up. I think the clearance between the rear and the pick up bed is the limit on lowering. (Is this correct?)

As far as the tubs... I may have to slice up the original to widen, lengthen and possibly change the height. but I want folks to have to take a second look.

I put a reference frame in cad and have been playing with some of the key dimensions.

Did you make the rear section yourself? In looking at the rails offered I do not think they would allow for the stock look I am after. If I have the dimensions of the rail shape is it reasonable to have the tube bent up?
Looks like you created the whole rear setup.
(Perhaps I may go this route if getting rectangulat tube bent is to expensive

Nice truck...

Thanks,

-Ed
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 08-07-2010, 08:29 PM
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Picked up some of my parts...

Have to get the brakes lines and drive shafts in the red bronco so I can use the garage and start measuring..
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 08-07-2010, 08:59 PM
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Looks like fun to me. Keep us posted as you progress. Good luck and above all, have fun doing it.
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 02-28-2011, 04:00 PM
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Moving slower than I want but I am finally moving forward.

Excuse my ignorance If I am approaching something wrong advice is appreciated.

I am starting on the back half on the vehicle first. The thought is that I need to get my rear ride height set in order to figure out how much modification will be required for the front. (to locate the front cross member, avoid excessive rake.) I am locating the truck bed higher (approx 3") so I can get some additional clearance, allowing the truck to sit lower.

I now have the narrowed rear, it is set up for ladder bars, brackets fixtured and welded at purchase. I'll need to locate the front ladder bar cross member.

Since I am still working out heights the thought was to toss the rear under with the wheels,tires and Ladder bar mounted to the rear.. raise/ lower the frame until I am pleased with the height.(based on my bed height limits) Double check that the rear is positioned where desired. fore/aft true(square to the frame) then locate the ladder bar cross member fore/aft true (square to the frame) based on the 32" Length of the ladder bars.

Since I don' t have all the pieces to the puzzle, In regarding pinion angle... Is this going to be accurate enough to move forward?

I figure it is easier to ask questions now...


Thanks
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 02-28-2011, 04:34 PM
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Floor removed,new braces installed. Wheels tucked in place for rear end measurement. Still need to cut rear frame...

S&W rear end and third member
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Last edited by 77bronco_ed; 02-28-2011 at 04:50 PM.
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 02-28-2011, 05:58 PM
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Whatcha doing with that old Muncie 4 speed? Isn't this a Ford that you are building?
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 02-28-2011, 06:04 PM
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Funny... Always on the look out for parts

The picture was taken from the fellow that I purchased the rear from.(At his shop)
But if that is what it is... (I wouldn't know) My buddy has one just like it for his 71 Nova.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 03-12-2011, 07:31 PM
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My buddy and I were out in the garage today.
So far it appears to be going well.

Set desired ride height, set body and frames on stands.
assembled rear, installed ladders (temp)
cut away frame
tucked rear under
eyeballed position
critical clearance checks

Floor is raised, I will have 2" clearance to the floor bed with the height I am anticipating.

I think I read some folks had less (if this is true I may be able to come down another .5 or 1"?

Ordered cross member for ladder bars.
I'll make wood tempate for the rails.

At this point I think things are going as planned.
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 03-12-2011, 07:33 PM
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Stance is 7" below stock
17" below my lifted Bronco

added old pic of lifted bronco for comparison
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Last edited by 77bronco_ed; 03-12-2011 at 07:39 PM.
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