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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 05-23-2013, 05:37 PM
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http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hr...make/chevrolet

Bygddy, is the cam you posted close to the Crane Cam the Tech recommends? It is more within my budget, also what are the recommended valve springs for this Cam? what are you thoughts on Thumper Cams? Pro Comp Cams? Is Howards a better brand?


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Old 05-23-2013, 07:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NovaLou View Post
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hr...make/chevrolet

Bygddy, is the cam you posted close to the Crane Cam the Tech recommends? It is more within my budget, also what are the recommended valve springs for this Cam? what are you thoughts on Thumper Cams? Pro Comp Cams? Is Howards a better brand?


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The Crane cam was a little bigger for sure, but your 185 heads are going to run out of breath to really use it to its full potential anyways.
I hate valve spring math and I remember at one time asking tech about springs, and I'm pretty certain his answer was to call your cam manufacturer and go with their suggestion.
Thumper sounds cool, your going to hate the timing and Carb mods to make it be a decent driver. I went down that road myself, it was in the motor for less then 2 weeks and then sat on a shelf.....went to a comp XE284 and was happier.
Pro comp.....I'm going to have to say no....and yes, Howard's has been around for ever and they make a quality product for a decent price.
Honestly, if budget is the name of the game, and I get that, I'm there myself most of the time, for your 350-400hp goal I would do the heads you listed, a performer rpm, Carb choice will depend on vehicle weight, gear, converter. But if its light (sub 3300#) and has 373 or more gear, go with a 650DP, if it doesn't meet that criteria then a 750VS will be good.
Step up to this cam, it will be plenty lumpy for that "thumper" sound only it will actually make the power your looking for
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hr...make/chevrolet
Call for their valve spring reccomandation.
A set of long tube headers, mandrel bent 2.5 piping and a good free flowing muffler, flowmaster sounds cool but don't help your goals. Follow the wiki link for cam break in, its not going to have huge spring pressure and if you follow the link you will be fine. With tis cam, and a good 750 Carb your going to be right at or very close to your 400hp goal for a very low cost. Timing will be right around 24* initial and 36* total, you will have to modify your dist but its dead simple. Just search here....lots of info on this.
That's it.....there are many ways to meet your power goals, but on a budget, this should keep you plenty happy.
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Old 05-23-2013, 09:21 PM
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I appreciate your help on this BYGDDY, but I was actually referring to the link:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hr...make/chevrolet
its a Roller Cam by Howard and I can afford this price unless there is a better cam for the money.
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Old 05-23-2013, 09:42 PM
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nice little cam.After tech OKs it,go for it.should be a fun street car
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Old 05-24-2013, 03:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NovaLou View Post
I appreciate your help on this BYGDDY, but I was actually referring to the link:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hr...make/chevrolet
its a Roller Cam by Howard and I can afford this price unless there is a better cam for the money.
The problem there is that's just the cam, you still need lifters, a cam button, and a reinforced front cover. Unless your using a newer style roller block with one piece rear main.
Here's what you need to go that route and there is a significant cost increase.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hr...make/chevrolet

ke Tech and Vinnie say, its the right way to go if the money makes sense. I was going on the assumption that its an older block.
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Old 05-24-2013, 01:06 PM
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Looks like the Crane Cam is gonna be the way to go. I don't want to risk going with the Flat Tappet. I just purchased the first two items from Techs list, (Freedom Series Heads and Pistons). Crane Cam and double springs are next. This forum is great. Thanks for the great advise everyone. If its not a bother I've got more questions as I continue to purchase my parts.
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Old 05-24-2013, 01:17 PM
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It is a 4 bolt main 350. cast #3970010
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Old 05-24-2013, 01:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NovaLou View Post
It is a 4 bolt main 350. cast #3970010
OK this is an original flat tappet block, so you will want to use a retrofit roller cam, retrofit roller lifters, valve springs in the heads according to what the cam grinder tells you to put in the heads for the particular grind you're using, a drive gear on the distributor shaft that is compatible with the gear on the cam that drives the distributor, a cam button in front of the cam to prevent it walking back and forth in the block and a substantial front cover to take the punishment of the cam banging on the cover. It can be as easy as welding a 0.125" thick piece of metal on the inside of the cover for the button to run on.
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Old 05-24-2013, 01:54 PM
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nice little cam.After tech OKs it,go for it.should be a fun street car
Does this mean I cant use the Crane cam? Sounds like this means more money.
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Old 05-24-2013, 01:56 PM
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Does this mean I cant use the Crane cam? Sounds like this means more money.
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Old 05-24-2013, 01:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NovaLou View Post
Does this mean I cant use the Crane cam? Sounds like this means more money.
Still need roller lifters, and everything tech said above....that's where I was going with my post earlier....its not just a cam, there is more to it then that......its "right" but not cheap
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Old 05-24-2013, 02:02 PM
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My block was not zero decked at the shop, is it necessary to do this before I start the build and whats the cost of having this done?
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Old 05-24-2013, 02:06 PM
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Yeah, I got that the Howard roller cam would have actually been more expensive than the Crane cam the Tech recommended. Now knowing the casting # of my block it seems to have become more complicated to find the right cam, just when I made up my mind on the Crane cam.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 05-24-2013, 02:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NovaLou View Post
Yeah, I got that the Howard roller cam would have actually been more expensive than the Crane cam the Tech recommended. Now knowing the casting # of my block it seems to have become more complicated to find the right cam, just when I made up my mind on the Crane cam.
What's the budget? Intended use? If the roller is too much work don't get scared off from the flat tappit cam.
Big spring pressure, big lift flat tappits are alot more prone to failure.
If you are trying to do this and it comes down to dollars and cents, then spend a little extra and have the cam nitrided. This, along with proper break in and chemicals will almost ensure you have no issues.
You can spend the money to have it zero decked, buy good quality roller rockers, and a nitrided cam for what your going to spend to go roller. I agree, and will say so again, that roller is a better way to go long term. But I have a few builds myself, and have had a hand in many, and have only experienced one failure.....and it was a big Lunati, and the guy wouldn't listen and ran conventional 10w30 oil right after break in.....the cam lasted 2 oil changes and wiped a lobe. If you take the proper steps, you will be fine for your goals.
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 05-24-2013, 03:52 PM
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I feel that we have done the OP a dis-service. I jumped in first thing with a fairly agressive roller tappet camshaft, just to get some numbers up on the board. Here is what I would suggest to the OP. Go to this link and fill out the cam recommendation form on this page....
Contact Us

The pistons and heads will work just fine, it's the cam we're worried about now. Give all the info to the technicians on the form and let them suggest a type of cam and a grind for you, based on your 10.1:1 static compression ratio and intended use of the motor.

Traditionally, a roller cam, complete with cam, lifters, thrust button, compatible distributor gear and reinforced front cover will cost in excess of $600. By now though, I'm sure you understand the gamble with a flat tappet camshaft, even though you can get into a flat tappet arrangement for around $200.

If you don't feel comfortable filling out the cam form, simply call up the tech phone number and talk with one of the techs about the camshaft choice. Just so you know, Howards has traditionally had the lowest price for an aftermarket retrofit hydraulic roller cam and lifters.
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