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Old 09-02-2010, 11:40 AM
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Proper Proceedure

Hey guys. I have read some good info on painting and the steps leading up to the painting process. I also see that a lot of you recommend SPI products - which I am leaning toward.
My question deals with my 66 mustang that I am currently working on. I am going to take it down to bare metal and start from there. I see a lot of people say to use SPI epoxy primer on the bare steel then put a coat of high build primer on top of that. I assume after this step you can work with your fillers then recoat with primer and paint. The only reason I ask about the epoxy coat is because I used some before (nason I think) on another project and it gummed up so bad when I sanded that I eventually had to strip it all off.
Thanks in advance for any input!

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Old 09-02-2010, 11:44 AM
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do you filler work before any primer. epoxy with 2 coats then do the fill on top of it.
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Old 09-02-2010, 11:57 AM
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So it doesn't hurt to put filler on bare metal? What if there is a patch panel, or a seam under it? Would this not allow rust to form?
Not disagreeing with you, just trying to understand. All this is new to me! ha ha.
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Old 09-02-2010, 12:41 PM
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epoxy first the do your fill work .
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Old 09-02-2010, 01:09 PM
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Ok, I think I misunderstood you on the first reply. I am on the same page now.
So have you ever had the problem of the epoxy primer gumming up on you when you sand it specifically when you put body filler over it?

Last edited by chip_127; 09-02-2010 at 01:21 PM.
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Old 09-02-2010, 04:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chip_127
Ok, I think I misunderstood you on the first reply. I am on the same page now.
So have you ever had the problem of the epoxy primer gumming up on you when you sand it specifically when you put body filler over it?

i have never used SPI epoxy(but plan to)

other epoxys do not like sanding that i have found

from what i get the SPI can be used like a 2K and sanded and blocked.


for what its worth i have always done my filler work then primed,even bare metal.

no problems for the past 16 years on repair work and my ole man done it for 45 years that way and never any issues.

imo you can do it both ways and get good results.

hope this helps,Travis
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Old 09-02-2010, 04:33 PM
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Thanks for your input Travis.
I was just looking at the SPI website and noticed they do not carry any base coats... What brand of base coat do you guys use?
I also noticed that you can't just place an order with them - says to look for a local jobber. Well in this area we don't have local jobbers.
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Old 09-02-2010, 05:03 PM
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Call Barry

I just ordered directly from him today, 404-307-9740. It's the tech line but you will get in touch with him.
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Old 09-02-2010, 05:07 PM
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if no jobber in your area they ship direct with no shipping cost.
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Old 09-03-2010, 12:57 PM
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What brand do you guys use for color coat?
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Old 09-03-2010, 03:46 PM
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i use Deltron Base(PPG)

when i want it better i use (PPG)GLOBAL line

for the most part Deltron is about as good as any of the top line bases.

stay away from cheap lines some will say they love them,some will say they are just.i just say Whatever

i also use ChromaBase when im having some irregular color match issues.

good stuff as well
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Old 09-06-2010, 06:27 AM
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Filler over epoxy or under epoxy???? both work but epoxy first then filler works best for me...and epoxy is made to protect metal so in orderto get the most out of it ,I use it on metal...When SPI or any epoxy primer hasnt completely cured it will ball up like you described...it takes a couple days to cure....The big advantage of SPI is it sands and builds ,so if you have time to wait for it to cure you really dont need any other primers or sealers...YES,it also makes a great sealer...

As for paint I think just the opposite ....Stay away from top of the line ,high dollar stuff.....WHY???? theres a lot of reasons but mainly the pressure of making a mistake and wasting all that money....It dont much matter how much you spent or how long it'll last if it looks like crap...
I would also stay away from any BC/CC and use only solid colors for your first job....You'll make plenty of mistakes no matter what,(thats how you learn) so make life easy and keep it simple...I recommend Nason Ful-thane for your first job ,its easy to spray and still,if you get a lot of runs or something gets messed up theres enough paint left over to paint it again.....It'll hold up for years too...Its what I use on my low end jobs...But whatever the brand you use ,use a urathane,.......enamel and acrilic enamels are cheaper but wont hold up very long....
Prices vary but a gal of Nason runs about 125-150.00 with hardner and will easily last 10 yrs.....
Single stage urathane For solid colors only , no metalics...

Last edited by deadbodyman; 09-06-2010 at 06:33 AM.
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Old 09-06-2010, 03:02 PM
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i use prospray for color. stay away from 2nd line paint unless you are doing car lot work. it covers less , holds out less, can create more problems than it is worth. there are many quality paints out there that cost less and perform much better than weak resin 2nd line colors.
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