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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 04-12-2004, 03:38 PM
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if you do the math its 650 lbs (all iron BBC) suspended by 4 bolts with a combined cross section of alittle over 0.2 square inches thats 3250 psi. any rusted Piece of crap chinese bolt will take ten times that stress. and so will coroded cast aluminum in the intake... so lift away

(a grade 8 bolt is rated at 160000 psi so i wouldnt worry about the fasteners you could use aluminium blower studs for that matter and they still wouldnt break)

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 04-12-2004, 03:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by deuce_454
if you do the math its 650 lbs (all iron BBC) suspended by 4 bolts with a combined cross section of alittle over 0.2 square inches thats 3250 psi. any rusted Piece of crap chinese bolt will take ten times that stress. and so will coroded cast aluminum in the intake... so lift away

(a grade 8 bolt is rated at 160000 psi so i wouldnt worry about the fasteners you could use aluminium blower studs for that matter and they still wouldnt break)

It might look good on paper but it seems people have had problems in the real world.....so what gives???
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 04-12-2004, 04:04 PM
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when i install motors i usually take 4 grade 8 bolts on each corner of the heads.....hook those up to an engine leveler, and then drop her in. You might want to put washers on the end of the bolts so the chain doesnt slide off, that would suck

Ben
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Old 04-12-2004, 08:07 PM
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I believe that is correct. the holding power of 4 5/16 bolts is actually much greater than 750 lbs if they have enough thread contact and a reasonably thick plate that will not distort under load. I put a big block in with a plate. I used 1/2" thick aluminum plate for the base plate and 3/8" for the vertical. I believe this would transfer the stress uniformly to the carb base plate. I could see this having the catastrophic results if you tried to get by with short bolts though.
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Old 04-12-2004, 08:13 PM
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Its not the bolts that bother me, its the cheap crap aluminum threads that scare me!
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Old 04-12-2004, 08:31 PM
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I actually bought one of those engine lift plates, never used it. I will give it to anyone willing to pay the freight.

Vince
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Old 04-12-2004, 10:20 PM
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Custom Bars, looks like a figure 8, 2 on each head and 4 chains when I pull an engine.

There is no way I would use one of those POS engine puller things, what ever you call them, as someone already said, whats on paper and what is in the real world are two VERY different things.
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Old 04-12-2004, 10:36 PM
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i think the real world problems arrise when the plate distorts and the weight is no longer carried by 4 bolts torqued down over a perfectly flat lift plate but suddently only by two or one half stripped metric bolts in a 3/8 inch hole...

if you use 4 new bolts and a flat and true lift bracket you will never have any probs.
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Old 04-13-2004, 07:25 AM
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whats on paper and what is in the real world are two VERY different things.
You defy Physics???
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Old 04-13-2004, 07:51 AM
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I have several and use them all the time. The key like any tool in your toolbox is to understand how to use it and use it properly. It doesn't matter if it's a circular saw or an engine lift plate, it's still a tool and needs to be used with care and as designed. Use good fasteners, screw them in deep, and tighten them down.
If you're trying to remove a 7/16" headed bolt with a 12mm wrench and it slips off and you whack your knuckle is it because 12mm wrenches are no good?
One thing I do agree with is not being able to tilt the motor. That can be a pain.
I will add though, if using one makes you feel uncomfortable, then don't. It is a free country.
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 04-13-2004, 09:42 AM
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AMEN...
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Old 04-13-2004, 03:28 PM
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I'd rather have a plate made up that bolts into the heads via the manifold holes with longer bolts. Another thing too, I've seen rope used that's been rapped around the exhaust manifolds. And most recently we got a used engine complete from the wreckers for a customer that claimed to have no cash. The engine came with an old seat belt (instead of a chain) knotted around some extended bolts. We used it and it worked well as it was very forgiving to the motor accessories and was easier to tilt the engine during installation. My friend, who's also a mechanic, says he's used seat belts b4 with no probs, and the wreckers seem to love them as they have plenty of old belts laying around.
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Old 04-13-2004, 04:21 PM
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Using ONE decent size chain, stagger it kitty corner, front to back, left to right, use a load leveler or a piece of steel bar to spread the chain apart over the engine to prevent any scratching. Bolt the chain utilizing the bolt holes in the front and back of the heads. Use large washers to prevent bolt heads from slipping through the links. Make sure you thread the bolts all the way in and tighten them down. Don't try lifting the engine with the bolts half in and half out you're asking for failure.

Last edited by 1950bulletnose; 04-13-2004 at 04:28 PM.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 04-13-2004, 09:38 PM
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Man am I glad I kept those factory gizmos that atached to the intake manifold ends (chevy) one on each opposing corner and they are held in with two bolts each! not pretty but once you see an engine fall you become a believer real fast!
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 04-13-2004, 09:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by johnsongrass1
You defy Physics???
Well lets see...

I dont "defy physics" I would be walking on the celling if I could

On paper it might say that a lift plate can handle (as an example, not real) 750lbs.

Now... Quality of the metal is never perfect, the metal could be really cheap and porous, maybe a bubble formed in the metal during forming?

So the plate is now weaker than advertised.

After a few lifts, maybe the metal is begining to stretch, maybe a stress crack is forming...

Crack...., BANG! Need new garage floor, or new core support!

My God I'm paranoid!

EDIT: Also no one ever said the intake was rated to withstand holding a 600lb engine on 4 ALUMINUM bolt holes.
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