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Old 09-29-2008, 08:00 PM
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Pulling the heads off my 283, how to protect open cylinders?

I am soon having my dubble humps decked. This is to achieve better sqish. What is the best way to protect the open cylinders. Anyone have a better idea than throwing a towel over the cylinders? The car will be left outside. No garage.

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Old 09-29-2008, 08:07 PM
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Having the heads decked will not improve quench, it will only slightly help compression depending on the head gasket used. All I ever did to protect cylinders was coat them in WD40 and cover them up recoating often.
If you have the heads decked it won`t help much in compression to be of any benefit to power gains. The factory gasket was .028 in thickness, most after market gaskets are .041 in thickness to make up for uneveness in the decks so a aftermarket gasket will make compression lower and less quench than the factory gaskets would. Since you didn`t give a full explanation of what your goals are, I wouldn`t pull the heads until you give us more details of what you plan to achieve.
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Old 09-29-2008, 08:22 PM
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283 engine

The motor was built by me three years ago. I am just now learning what I did wrong with the build. The engine has poor low end. wrong cam is the problem. I want to find a smaller head gasket and deck the heads to achieve a 9.5 ratio. Also....I did not have any idea when putting the motor together about compression ratio or static ratio. So I would like to check the piston hight and volume. While the heads are off.
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Old 09-29-2008, 09:28 PM
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It seems you have learned some since the first go around. Then I would suggest you learn more by reading more. First off, I wouldn`t have built a 283 other than for a economy engine. Secondly, you have to learn to make the package work together as a team for performance. Decking the heads isn`t going to help any nor be worth it in the end, you would have to have the block decked which will mean a entire tear down. You can learn how far the piston is down in the bore at TDC by doing so with a caliper. Since SBC`s were not casted with much percision at the factory you can bet the decks are tipped and even if they are right it`s supposed to be .025 in the hole.
Depending if the pistons are "destroked" it can be all the way to .050
in the hole at TDC.
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Old 09-29-2008, 09:39 PM
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While I had my prior engine apart I tried the WD-40 route, and it tended to rundown the cylinderwalls too easily, (I had to have it apart for an extended time), so I ended up using a fresh stiffbristle paintbrush with CLEAN/FRESH heavy grease, as it clung well to the borewalls. Won't harm anything, and will "hang in there well". -Just my .02
I do however advise, that you listen to the other points being made here, as they are well knowledgeable in the subject. -Jim
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Old 09-29-2008, 09:41 PM
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tear apart or not....?

Since the build 3 years ago. I've driven 1500 miles on the motor. I have learned the hard way I admit it. 3 years and it is still not right.. It's time now to get this thing right. What now?
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Old 09-29-2008, 10:07 PM
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Do like DoubleV said and do some serious READING. Tons of great information in the knowledgebase of this site. Keeps me entertained for such long periods of time that my wife's practically got to pry me off the computer. Also; look for mention of books such as "HotRodding the Chevrolet V8", and others like it. Your local library may have some of the more popular ones. I loaned a similar book to the counterman in our local parts store about a month ago,(whom is building 2 engines right now, and had just finished a 355) and after the first 2 weeks I asked if he were done, and he politely asked if he can keep it awhile longer because it's been such a good read! (He's also a volunteer firefighter and has a pretty full plate, so of course I said yes...) My point being, spend as much time as needed reading the various articles and threadposts on this site, and you'll get lots of VERY USEFUL information, and TIME well spent is equal to $ well spent. -Happy reading!!
-Jim
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Old 09-29-2008, 10:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j.d.brown.042964
While I had my prior engine apart I tried the WD-40 route, and it tended to rundown the cylinderwalls too easily, (I had to have it apart for an extended time), so I ended up using a fresh stiffbristle paintbrush with CLEAN/FRESH heavy grease, as it clung well to the borewalls. Won't harm anything, and will "hang in there well". -Just my .02
I do however advise, that you listen to the other points being made here, as they are well knowledgeable in the subject. -Jim
Agree with Jim about the heavy grease. Never had good luck with WD40 staying put.
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Old 09-30-2008, 09:36 AM
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If you have camelbacks on a 283 that's part of your problem. The original heads were smaller chamber.
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Old 09-30-2008, 09:56 AM
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oopps...

Quote:
Originally Posted by MI2600
If you have camelbacks on a 283 that's part of your problem. The original heads were smaller chamber.
The casting #3782461 z-28 302 head. They gotta work. thats the only set I have.
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Old 09-30-2008, 12:43 PM
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3782461......Camel hump, no accessory holes, 160/62cc port volumes, 62cc chamber, most likely 1.94"/1.50"
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Old 09-30-2008, 02:20 PM
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The heads are not 302 heads because no 302 ever used 1.94 camel hump heads. The were used 327cid/ 300hp from 1962 - 1967
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Old 09-30-2008, 06:11 PM
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My mistake...

My mistake....I got the two part #s mixed up. 3782461 are the 327 heads. I have an Intake casting #3932472 Aluminum 4 BBL Holley 1969 302C.I.D. 290HP (Z/28)

oops....
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Old 09-30-2008, 06:49 PM
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Years ago I did a 327 with the 461 heads,Put some 202"s and did some head work,comp cam #12-224-4, with good intake,carb,ign,gears and converter,Put it in a 66 chevelle and it would run 12 o's all day long, and on a good day high 11.90's.there is always a way to make more power,but the combo will run pretty good.
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Old 09-30-2008, 11:26 PM
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If they're only going to be off for a few days, just dip your fingers in some clean motor oil and wipe the bores with them. Turn the engine over a couple of times and do it again. Do the deck surfaces also, but clean it off before you put the heads back on. Cover it with a couple of large plastic trash bags, tied so if it rains, the water won't drain inside.

Real heavy "contractor" trash bags are large enough and thick enough to not be easily punctured by the occasional metal edge. They are not, however, cat-proof, so if you have such critters around, a protective layer of old carpet or corrugated cardboard might be in order.
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