I have shot 2 coats of epoxy primer and 2 coats of 2k high build primer. I have blocked sanded and now I am trying to figure out the sealer coat.
What is its purpose?
My high build primer and epoxy both say they can be used for sealer. I will need to buy more epoxy if I use it but have lots of the high build left. What are the benefits or draw backs for either one? What would the drawback of NOT using a sealer coat?
Dumb question, but is "Reducer" the same as the solvent that came with the paints or is it a different product?
Does the sealer coat need to be sanded also? I have blocked the High Build pretty smooth and I think it will rough up the surface before I BC/CC.
I have shot 2 coats of epoxy primer and 2 coats of 2k high build primer. I have blocked sanded and now I am trying to figure out the sealer coat.
What is its purpose?
My high build primer and epoxy both say they can be used for sealer. I will need to buy more epoxy if I use it but have lots of the high build left. What are the benefits or draw backs for either one? What would the drawback of NOT using a sealer coat?
Dumb question, but is "Reducer" the same as the solvent that came with the paints or is it a different product?
Does the sealer coat need to be sanded also? I have blocked the High Build pretty smooth and I think it will rough up the surface before I BC/CC.
First and foremost....I am not a professional painter. Strictly hobby. There are several folks on this site that are pro's....so I'd wait for thier input as well. My experience has mostly been with PPG products so some of what I say may not apply to your product.
IMO....the sealer acts as a sticky layer between your primers and your top coats. PPG epoxy primer can be used as a sealer. As memory serves....mix 25% by volume with Laquer thinner as a thining agent, into your mixed epoxy. There is a difference between Laquer thinner and reducer. Reducer will be for you BC/CC. Two different things. No need to sand sealer (in fact....hope you dont need to cause it will just ball up on your sand paper) as it is the first step in your BC/CC application.....think of it as glue for the top coats. I've had conflicting suggestions on what grit to sand the highbuild. Some say one thing...others say another. I have had great results with 600 grit for the high build....then the day I'm ready to paint.....seal it (following the manufacturers guidelines for cure times) and spray your top coats.... No need for sanding anything (I dont think) after your done blocking out your high build. If your CC doesnt lay smooth enough....then you might want to 1200 then 1500 it. Hopefully she'll lay down smooth for you.
Sealer's main job is to provide holdout, so the solvents from your topcoats dont bury too deep, causing staining, halo's amonst other things. Most 'sealers' have some minor filling capabilities, but like HoK says: Its not a replacement for shody, poor, or imporper prepwork.
What BMM said..it's like the referee that keeps the two layers seperated to prevent lifting etc..don't skip this . it's an insurance policy. Southern Polyuretheane says you can use the Epoxy pimer reduced a little as a sealer.
Thanks for the replies.
I have sanded the high build smooth and if I have some slight orange peel in the epoxy seal coat should I hit it with 400 or or leave it?
I had about a pint left of the PPG epoxy and had to go get an extra quart just to be sure I had enough to finish the seal coat. I guess it is a cheap insurance for the expensive BC/CC to stay on the car...
PPG's epoxy doesn't sand very well but yes, if needed you can sand the sealer coat smooth before applying your color. For these gummy epoxies your best bet would be to sand it wet.
I don't quite understand this Epoxy as sealer thing. For what sealer costs, its just as effective price wise, and is 100% designed for the job, so why not use sealer instead of Epoxy as sealer?
Seems to me you'd have a better chance of either having a slightly orange peel texture before putting on your paint, or risk runs which we all know are no fun THAT close to putting the paint on.
Iuno, someone with experience tell me the advantage of Epoxy as sealer?
I don't quite understand this Epoxy as sealer thing. For what sealer costs, its just as effective price wise, and is 100% designed for the job, so why not use sealer instead of Epoxy as sealer?
Seems to me you'd have a better chance of either having a slightly orange peel texture before putting on your paint, or risk runs which we all know are no fun THAT close to putting the paint on.
Iuno, someone with experience tell me the advantage of Epoxy as sealer?
why buy it if you don't have to.. a gallon of epoxy should more than coat a car with leftover.. so you mix what you have left up as a sealer.. you then don't have to buy the sealer.
I use epoxy..the SPI extensively as that way it limits the number of materials in the shop..Saves a lot of money that way as I only keep epoxy, some 2k for blocking and some clear..Just need to find base coat that way..once in a while I will use some high build..I also only use one filler product..
Also guys inspect your work as you go and fix any runs or orange peel before you put another coat on..main thing for me in a seal coat is to get a uniform surface to apply the base to as a lot of basses do not cover all that well..
why buy it if you don't have to.. a gallon of epoxy should more than coat a car with leftover.. so you mix what you have left up as a sealer.. you then don't have to buy the sealer.
I have the car apart and shot 2 coats of epoxy on everything so I only had about 16 oz. left over. I probably over did it but wanted get inside the fenders, under the hood and trunk also so I ran short and had to buy more.
Thanks for the insight on sealer coats everyone
Ron
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