[OneMoreTime]

This is the type where a pushrod acts on the spring and shock thru a bellcrank...Has anyone built one of these??? Tips would be appreciated..

Sam

[powerrodsmike]

Like this one?



I never built one, but I'd be looking that that one for inspiration..
I know that Ron Attebury builds one as well, his is similar to the Kugel.


Later, mikey

[OneMoreTime]

That is the type..mainly I am interested in fabricating the rod and bell crank assemble as I have the rest of it..I wonder what size bearing was used for the pivots and how big that push-rod is?? Maybe we can work up a HR.com do-it yourself deal..

Sam

[powerrodsmike]

I'd use a 5/8" shoulder bolt with a 3/4" OD bronze bushing pressed into the crank. Drill the bellcrank and put a zirc for greasin it up.
I wouldn't use a bearing, too many little jarring impacts would tear it up, and you would need to make the bellcrank fairly large at that end to accomodate the OD of the bearing.
I'd use a solid bronze bushing instead of the oilite type.

I'd think that 3/4" or 7/8" heavywall tube would be plenty for the strut as long as the car is an average weight. What are you putting this under?

Later, mikey

[OneMoreTime]

I am putting it under my roadster...putting the coil overs in the stock location results in something Oggglly so I thought the remote install would look better..Might even be easier (really) to fabricate..Now it is off to McMaster Carr to get some more oilite bushings and another reamer..I think 0.120 sheet should be adequate to cut the bellcranks out of..I will use the 0.50 bushings for the rod ends that I will make..

Sam

[powerrodsmike]

Originally Posted by OneMoreTime

I am putting it under my roadster...putting the coil overs in the stock location results in something Oggglly so I thought the remote install would look better..Might even be easier (really) to fabricate..Now it is off to McMaster Carr to get some more oilite bushings and another reamer..I think 0.120 sheet should be adequate to cut the bellcranks out of..I will use the 0.50 bushings for the rod ends that I will make..

Sam

The bellcranks will be .120" sheet on each side, and connected by a through tube with the pressed in bushing for the pivot and sandwiching the rod ends on either end, correct?

That should be plenty strong
Later, mikey

[OneMoreTime]

Originally Posted by powerrodsmike

The bellcranks will be .120" sheet on each side, and connected by a through tube with the pressed in bushing for the pivot and sandwiching the rod ends on either end, correct?

That should be plenty strong
Later, mikey

Yup..that is the way..

Sam

[Dugg]

This design is similar to that used on IRL/CART cars. My nephew used to work for Team Rahal where I had opportunities to get in real close to the cars.

I like the looks of this design and I see a benefit in maybe having to go to a little longer wheel base on an open wheeled car. Short wheel bases are a handful.

What is the advantage of this design?
Are there a sufficient number of spring rates available for interchange and will a builder find himself purchasing several sets of springs to find the right ones?

I offer a couple of things to ponder.

The type of suspension relies on the a-frame to bell crank rod to be in compression. Therefore, I might make it rather robust and the same for the bell crank and pivot in the X-member.

This design, similar to that used in IRL/CART cars is subject to relatively light vehicle dynamics impact and shocking loads simply because race track are very smooth unlike roads with pot holes or patched by low bidders or city employees.

Yes Paris, F1 cars race on city streets in Monaco, but not in my neighborhood where I need all wheel drive to get to the highway. The maximum suspension travel in a racer can be measured in tenths of an inch.