put a little to much clear on
hey guys i painted my car about 6 weeks ago bc/cc solvent
but with the intentions of flattening and polishing for a show finnish i thought i will apply an extra 2 coat = 5 wet coats in total
Now heres the problem (no runs no solvent pop)
but man the panels have got some ripple through it
the ripple is even all the way through every panel so its not bad bodywork this time :D
i have flattend it with 1200 on hard block then 3m 1500 c/c discs then trizact 3000 + polished BUT the ripple is still there
i know with the process i have done wet sanding etc there still a good amount of clear on it do i go lower grits ? to get rid of the ripple/waves
i was thinking 500 hard block 800 hard block 1200 hard block 1500 discs and 3000 discs
what would you recomend guys?
this is how it was when it was out the gun but obviously the clear pulled in with the clear drying causing the ripple
What you are seeing is urethane wave, like every other show car has when using a higher solids clear and using excess coats.
Has nothing to do with how you sprayed it, gun adjustment or clear pulling back. This is normal with doing custom work unless you use an everyday production clear and then you are going back wards after two coats.
There is only one correction and that is wet sanding, first with 400, 600 or 800, your choice as these are the only grits that will remove the urethane wave. 1000 will make a slight dent but only if you beat yourself half to death sanding.
Hard block on fresh clear??? You are more a man then me, how I do my jobs is 400 or 600 with a soft pad like motor guard or 3M and when done I will jump to either 1000 or 1200 (depending on sandpaper inventory) pretty serious stuff here as you can tell and itís the same reason I sand first with 400 or 600.
Then I go to 1500 and ready to buff, some people like 2000 or 3000 and buff, that is up to you as all clears are different as to how they buff.
For the perfect job, you may consider letting car set in full sun for a day or two before wet sanding and a full day after wet sanding and then buffing for good leveling and it will cut your buffing time in half.
thanks barry !
so still a 50/50 chance of a re-paint then lol
will give this a try today and report back i think i am already about 2000 hrs in sanding till now so a little more wont hurt :mad:
thanks again for the input barry!
Its not that bad!
I had four coats of clear on the vette and ended up with average mil reading of 16-18 mils, measured at r-fender and left quarter with dummy piece of metal clamped in wheel well.
With 600 I had from memory APPROX 11-12 hours.
Then with either 1000 or 1200, about 2 hours.
Then with 1500 about same or less but had a few phone calls, so lost track.
The course grit makes or breaks the job, the finer grits do nothing but convert the scratches.
You will win!!!
I found my old post on the procedure and was off on a few statements, so here are some pictures and a better explanation.
Also don't forget the sun, if the car has not been baked.
My Sequoia was painted last week and it is black, also shot four coats of clear on it, I will drive it another two weeks before I wet sand and buff just to let the paint settle, black dries different then any other color.
Can you elaborate on the way black dries differently when CCed?
sure Ron, in a solvent base the black is carbon, now this does not apply to a water base as they may used burnt bones or whatever else is black.
Carbon conduces electricity and the solvents and other additives are polar, so the main reason it dries slower is its fighting the solvents from coming out, to keep this short.
That is why any custom black job the base sets over night before clearing.
Dark Blues and dark greens are the other problems as they have a lot of black in them.
Something I do is to only apply two coats of clear at a time,sand with 600 and set outside,wait a couple days and shoot two more coats of clear then sand with 1500.....it seems to take care of the wave problem and its a lot less work. :sweat: :sweat:
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