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  #76 (permalink)  
Old 12-16-2012, 10:22 AM
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yep. It's hard to tell but it looks like your door is creased in a little bit up top and bashed in a little below it. Is it even down low? If so, run a block on it you will probably easily find that little high spot. If you had a tiny slide hammer you can pull the bashed in area below the high spot out with the door closed and get live feedback of the process. You can use wood or a big slide hammer to pull the top of the door up and out. Then with a dinging spoon you can slowly lower that high spot or crease. Then again, this is going off of what I can see. Doesn't mean this is the issue, but only from the looks of it. So before you do anything YOU have to determine if this is the fix by looking at everything else. If it's even everywhere but there then yeah you need to pull that edge out. Could also mean you have to pull the bottom of the door out and unfold the top. Just hard to make these determination with pics.

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  #77 (permalink)  
Old 12-16-2012, 11:26 AM
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Bezels should come out w/o moving bumper. I put some pics of mine on " "users gallery", can't get them to here. Seems I'm not as computer savvy as I "think" I am car savvy!
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  #78 (permalink)  
Old 12-16-2012, 12:04 PM
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If I remember correctly you mentioned that you replaced the doors with aftermarket doors. This is not uncommon for aftermarket doors. You may need to pull the lip of the door out to line up with your fender. The pictures do help but it would be easier to give you a conclusive remedy if I could rum my hand over the entire door. You also mentioned that you had an experienced body man/painter helping you with the finished product. Has he seen the issue that your concerned about? Tech 69 is correct in saying that a slide hammer would pull the door edge out. The slide hammer he is talking about has a hook on the end of it that would fit in the door gap and allow you to straighten out the edge.

I've had similar issues with new doors from the manufacturer, so not to get excited or worried. It's common when building these cars, especially with aftermarket panels.

Ray
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  #79 (permalink)  
Old 12-17-2012, 05:26 PM
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Yes the drivers side door skin has been replaced and I'll try the slide hammer deal.Just got finished spot welding the skin today after some minor adjustments. Are you suppose to put seam sealer around the skin when finished.


I need some info on the installation of the fiberglass hood.I'm pretty sure I now the answer but are you suppose the notch the hood where the rubber bumpers are on the car or are you suppose to leave the bumper off.



Thanks for the help.
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  #80 (permalink)  
Old 12-17-2012, 06:34 PM
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Yes, use seam sealer on the door skin, as far as the hood goes, do you have a picture of the underside of the hood. I have done fiberglass hoods where I have had to make my own snubbers.

Ray
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  #81 (permalink)  
Old 12-17-2012, 06:42 PM
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Hey Ray can you not see the pics above the last to are of the hood and fender let me know if pics not showing up.

Thank Sid
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Old 12-18-2012, 07:17 AM
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Sorry, I've got nothing on the last two pictures...just a little white sign where the pictures should be.
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  #83 (permalink)  
Old 12-18-2012, 06:24 PM
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Ray here's the pics of the hood.I have notch the hood more since these pics were taken.Do you think it would be good idea to seam seal along the bottom edge of the hood to make it look better.I hope you can see these pics.


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  #84 (permalink)  
Old 12-18-2012, 07:06 PM
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This is one of those times where a phone number would come in handy...I'd phone you and ask if the hood was a 2 piece fiberglass structure or a 1 piece molded hood. Either way, seam sealer wont' give you a clean line and will be visible when you open the hood. It doesn't look like the hood is 2 separate laminated pieces...I would finish the areas that you have you have notched the hood with filler, prime and paint...if the hood is laminated (which is rare, but I have seen them) with the underside frame work joined to the outside structure, I would use a product called panel bond adhesive from 3M...Part # 8116 or 8115...apply the adhesive into the joint, clamp it together until it's set up...a bit of filler, prime and paint. As I said, it does look like a molded one piece hood.

How does the hood fit now with the stops on the fender?

Ray
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  #85 (permalink)  
Old 12-18-2012, 07:09 PM
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Oh, just to mention, I did a 70 Chevelle cowl induction fiberglass hood a few years ago and it was 2 fiberglass pieces glued together, (first one I'd ever seen like that) and the glue let go before I even test fitted it on the car....The 8116 worked wonders and now, 8 years later, still holding together.
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  #86 (permalink)  
Old 12-18-2012, 07:24 PM
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Hey Ray I just PM you my phone #
The hood and fenders alignment are real good.I'll take more pics and post tomorrow.I think the hood is a haywood but not sure I think there is a sticker still on it somewhere I'll check.
By the way the dent puller worked really good on the door edge.


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  #87 (permalink)  
Old 12-19-2012, 08:04 AM
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Here's some pics of the hood and how it fit..
I called Harwood and they told me the hood is 2 molded pieces glued together







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  #88 (permalink)  
Old 12-19-2012, 10:15 AM
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It was great to talk to you today Sid and glad to hear that all is well with your hood...Keep up the good work my friend and any other questions please feel free to ask.

The best to you.
Ray
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