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Old 11-05-2004, 04:06 AM
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putting a blower on a T-bucket (parts list)

i have 2 sets ups iv lookd up. current engine is a 355 chevy with a preformer intake and a carb that says eledblock on the front and webber on the side. its matted for a GM Turbo 350. has a 4-bolt main. i have pictures if you need them.

the goal: mostly looks and sound, 500-700 HP, streetability, duribility.

Part list 1---------------------------------------------man. p/n
Wieland 6-71 Kit (polished)-------------------------7482P
Holley supercharger carb (600 CFM)---------------80592S
Mr. Gasket "Enderle Style" scoop 2X4 bbl---------6650
MSD 6-BTM Ignition Box-------------------------------6462
MSD Blaster High Vibration Coil----------------------8222
MSD Pro-Billet Small Diameter------------------------8570
Comp NX274H Cam & Lifters------------------------CL12-564-4
-----OR----
Lunati Blower Cam & Lifters--------------------------00011LK

what do you think? it seems summit has the best prices. thanks in advance.

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Last edited by 355Chevy; 11-05-2004 at 04:12 AM.
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Old 11-05-2004, 12:53 PM
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ttt
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Old 11-05-2004, 01:13 PM
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WOw there seems tobe a lot of blower poats right ow. You might want to read throuh a few of them and try doing a search.

I don't want to re-invent the wheel but, you have a few issues.

You mentioned one 600cfm carb, that is not going to cut it. You will need a minumum off two 650's (IMO).

You didn't mention your compression ratio or what parts you have in the bottom end (forged pistons, what rods, crankshaft?)

There is a HUGE difference between 500 and 700 HP, you will need two totally different recipes to get there.

Your Edelbrock carb says Webber on the side because that's who makes them. The Edelbrocks and Carter AFB's are the same cars with a different sticker on the front (that's about it).

Royce
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Old 11-05-2004, 10:03 PM
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oops forgot to mention we were gunna use 2 600CFM's. as for the internals were not quite sure what in there. i beleave its a crate motor from GM perf. parts but the guy who we bought it from said he was going to send us all the info, but he never picked up his phone. figures. when i said 500-700 i ment it can be anywhere in there. the car is fast as it is. anything over 700 is gunna be overkill. i know the pistons are low compression (8-8.5) and have a "dish" to them.
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Old 11-06-2004, 07:52 AM
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If your compression is in that range 8 - 8.5:1 you can get away with sticking a blower on there. Since you do not know what internals you have you should stick to around 4lbs of boost. That is not going to get you anywhere near 700HP. It will make plenty of power for your application and if you are mainly into it for the looks you will be happy.

In order to make big power you need forged internals (crank, pistons, good rods). You would also need to O ring the block or run special head gaskets. You willneed a blower type of cam, 4 bolt block, etc. The list goes on and on and gets expensive (ask me how I know).

For what you are trying to do, you can pull it off with what you have, just don't run too much boost or you will start breaking stuff (pistons, rods, crank, blow head gaskets, etc..). If you keep the boost down to ~ 4 lbs you can have fun and it should live. Once you decide you want more power then just build or buy a better short block.

Royce
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Old 11-06-2004, 09:08 AM
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i think the crate motor is this one...
http://www.gmpartsdepot.com/store/pr...Category_ID=63
or somthing simular. what do you have for the bottom end? and how much boost are you running?
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Old 11-06-2004, 11:14 AM
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I built my engine specifically for a blower. I also knew I was going to push the limits a bit. My cranks is a forged 4340 crank, splayed four bolt block, H-beam rods with ARP Pro Series bolts, Forgerd Wiseco dished pistons. My cam is a custom grind and blower specific.

I am running 12lbs of boost on pump gas.

I don't know the HP since I have never dynoed it. It should be in the 700-750HP range.

I am also running an 8-71 not a 6-71 so I am spinning it slower which lets me make more boost with less heat. This helps me push the limits a little. I am not sure I could get away with 12lbs of boost with a 6-71.

Like I said before for your application if your compression is low enough you can get by with slapping a blower on it, just keep the boost down. If you try to run too much boost you WILL break things. Cast pistons (which I am 99% sure is what you have) do not like detonation and will break. At 4lbs of boost in a t-buxket that should be plenty to keep your attention.

Royce
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Old 11-06-2004, 08:24 PM
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to change how much boost im running id just change the pullys on the blower and/or the crank rite? does it make a diffrence? does rotational mass play a big roll here?

weiand says...
To run boost levels from 6 to 10 pounds we recommend the following:
Forged blower pistons with a static compression ratio of 7.5:1 NO
Steel crankshaft Yes
Four bolt main caps Yes
Steel harmonic dampener Yes
Stainless steel valves ?
Three angle valve job ?
More aggressive camshaft On order
Roller rockers ? (on order if needed)
Ported and polished heads ? (dubt it)
Steel rods with good rod bolts ?
Chromoly push rods ?
High output ignition On order
Weiand high flow water pump Yes
Minimum of a 2-1/2" diameter dual exhaust with headers. Yes
Recommended primary tube diameters and collector sizes are:
Small Blocks: 1-5/8" to 1-3/4" with 3" collectors Yes
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Old 11-06-2004, 11:41 PM
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This is why I said you need to keep the boost down to 4lbs max with the current engine you have.

I am not sure what your question is?

Here is the best advice I can give you right now. Go pick up the book called "Street Supercharging" by SA designs. This will give you all the basic knowledge you need. You can then make educated decisions on what you want to do. If after you read that book you have more questions then post them.

Royce
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Old 11-07-2004, 09:15 AM
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thanks Royce ill pick up the book and take a look at it.
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