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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 08-06-2013, 07:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Jimbo17 View Post
I built a 30 x 30 garage with 13' high ceilings using concrete blocks and wood truss.

There 10' tall garage doors and about 26 electrical outlets.

8' Fluorescent lights and fans on the ceilings area work great.

Hey Jimbo, what style of 8 foot flouorescent lights do you have? The government in their infinite wisdom has banned the t-12 tubes. I just bought the last case my local Ace Hardware said they would ever have.


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Old 08-06-2013, 08:45 AM
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My son is an electrical contractor and for my birthday a few years ago he pulled out the 300 W light bulbs in the working half of the 40 x 120 tin building and installed commercial grade flourescent fixtures rated for cold weather. I haven' t had to change a bulb yet, and they are about 15-16 ft up. I plan on hanging some more lights from jack chain at 10 ft over the table saw and planer when I start to build cabinets for the new house. My son ran a 200 amp main panel and a 100 amp sub and said the lights won't go dim if some one is welding and the compressor kicks in. He has some 4 in square boxes on the ceiling wired , ready to install some drop extension cords.
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Old 08-06-2013, 08:53 AM
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T-12 tubes are rated with an 11 year life expectancy. I never replaced a bulb until this year. I have replaced 5 so far this year. I installed the fixtures in 2001. You can tell they are all getting used up by looking at the end of the tubes. They begin to turn black as their end draws near.

Sorry if I hi-jacked the thread.

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Old 08-09-2013, 08:00 AM
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My dads is 40x80 I think. Stick build with metal sheeting and a steel roof, level slab floor with smooth floor. He found a Mennonite fella and his son who build these "kits." It took them 3 days, they cleaned up every bit of sawdust, built the stairs for the inside came back 2 weeks later and poured the floor. My uncle hired one of these polebarn/garage builders...his was thrown together and just plain half assed from top to bottom. They couldnt get the floor smooth, and now its a pain in the *** to sweep clean. The mennonite guy was 1/3rd cheaper, did a better job, faster and one of the nicest gentlemen we've ever done business with. I Like the wooden pole barn with trusses. It does have a ridge vent upstairs but man does it get hot in there. 2 overhead doors and a man door on the front (which they got in an offwhite to match the house) 2 man doors on the side (std white) and nice windows (3 on each side).
If he did it again, probably concrete block would be the only better alternative. Also, he had to be cognizant of his neighborhood, they don't want industrial looking buildings going up. He also needed a bit steeper pitch to the roof because of snowloading.

If you can find a quality builder, and you dont have concerns about miscreant fire-bugs and termites, I say go wood with metal siding and roof
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Old 08-09-2013, 11:42 AM
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I too have garage/workshop envy. About 20 years ago, I has a 30x45 foot Morton metal pole barn built in the back of my then property - it of course filled within a year. Now, I have an attached 2 car garage plus a 3rd, and now out of local building code, stall in my basement where my current car usually resides. I really do miss that pole barn. It was well shaded so never really got too hot in the summer, but in the winter. I could't get too far from the wood burning stove. Had to sell and move due to a 'domestic' upheaval so am making do and will.

Given the choice, would again go for a metal building and if needed, would construct an internal but only an 8 foot insulated and ceilinged shop (man cave) and air condition and heat it, leaving the major area without comforts.
Irelands child
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Old 09-13-2013, 09:28 PM
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Ive found that steel construction runs about 12 a sq ft excluding concrete and wood will run about 19 a sq ft excluding concrete. - block construction run roughly the same a wood. you can buy the garage package from dealers like Carolina carports and have them dropped for you to stand yourself ,that saves 5% of the package price
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