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  #46 (permalink)  
Old 03-07-2007, 05:42 PM
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Found 2 more good tips (don't remember where though):

1). Heat the joint until you see a greenish flame and it's ready for solder.

2). Do as many parts of a fitting as possible at the same time, i.e. all legs of a tee simultaneously.

Sounds hard but it's really easier! Got my cooling/drying rack done today with no leaks.

Thanks for the tips!

Russ
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  #47 (permalink)  
Old 03-07-2007, 07:18 PM
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air lines

apparently abs is ok for air lines, can some one tell the difference, seems that abs is whit or gray in colored pbs black can some one confirm thanks cliff
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  #48 (permalink)  
Old 03-07-2007, 09:51 PM
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hey cliff double check that abs deal like i said previously abs is generally used for waste lines. therefore i believe it is only good for low pressure the grey stuff your referring to is schedule 80 pvc .while the fittings might take more pressure this would also require schedule 80 pipe.this is not so easy to find and with the rising prices on pvc might actually prove to be more expensive then copper or steel .
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  #49 (permalink)  
Old 03-08-2007, 07:11 AM
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Cliff, Since this thread is intended to cover all of the pros/cons of using PVC/plastic I am curious what is your is reasoning for wanting to use plastic of any type? I am completely convinced that PVC should NEVER be used for air line and there are no good reasons to do so however if ABS or some other type is safe then perhaps there may be a place for it, maybe?
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  #50 (permalink)  
Old 03-08-2007, 07:51 AM
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Just For Clarification Abs Pipe Is Designed For Drain,waste And Vent Applications. This Mean Minimal Or No Pressure In The System .no Abs Period
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Old 03-08-2007, 08:52 AM
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59, That's kind of what I was thinking and with all the other negatives about plastic and pricing so close to iron pipe I can't help but wonder why anyone would want to use it.
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  #52 (permalink)  
Old 03-08-2007, 09:47 AM
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plastic pipe airlines

the site for wash. state indicated abs ok for air lines, hear in canada our natural gas uses some sort of plastic. my reason for posting is my shop is all plastic but think it is abs so am trying to id. it as i to am consened. cliff
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  #53 (permalink)  
Old 03-08-2007, 10:04 AM
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my info came from the manufacturer's site and my plumbing experience . all the abs i have seen is black. usually grey fittings are pvc sch 80 .most fittings are marked in very small letters as to the material,schedule and pressure or drainage.if not they should at least show a standard -like a.s.t.m.
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  #54 (permalink)  
Old 03-08-2007, 10:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S10xGN
Found 2 more good tips (don't remember where though):

1). Heat the joint until you see a greenish flame and it's ready for solder.

2). Do as many parts of a fitting as possible at the same time, i.e. all legs of a tee simultaneously.

Sounds hard but it's really easier! Got my cooling/drying rack done today with no leaks.

Thanks for the tips!

Russ
Must have read my mind on the cooling portion...with your design I would have only needed 1 drain though - doh!

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  #55 (permalink)  
Old 03-08-2007, 10:41 AM
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Rambo, Actually a drain IS needed on all the low points because the air will take the shortest route, pressure permitting, thus a good portion (probably most) of the air on S10's (sorry S10 but I believe this to be true) is going to bypass those loops where they are interconnected so your set-up will work better.
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  #56 (permalink)  
Old 03-08-2007, 12:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldred
Rambo, Actually a drain IS needed on all the low points because the air will take the shortest route, pressure permitting, thus a good portion (probably most) of the air on S10's (sorry S10 but I believe this to be true) is going to bypass those loops where they are interconnected so your set-up will work better.
I suppose S10's design just turned horizontally with a small change would facilitate a single drain.

FYI - I took the flexible hose and shortened it so that the first up leg of the cooling drains back into the tank. On heavy use I get only a small amount of condensation from at the second drain...none ever at the filter/regulator...
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  #57 (permalink)  
Old 03-08-2007, 07:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldred
Rambo, Actually a drain IS needed on all the low points because the air will take the shortest route, pressure permitting, thus a good portion (probably most) of the air on S10's (sorry S10 but I believe this to be true) is going to bypass those loops where they are interconnected so your set-up will work better.
Ya know, I think you're right. I ASSumed the air would pass through the loops and any water would gravitate down the drop legs, but after your post I see no reason why the air wouldn't just bypass though the drain header. I'll just cut my header off and make mine like Rambo's.

Now, does anyone know why a steam trap (level type) won't work with air? I'd rather not be checking the drains that often.

Russ
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  #58 (permalink)  
Old 03-09-2007, 09:55 PM
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most steam traps work under low pressure residential heating systems only use a few pounds of pressure. while they do have high pressure steam traps if my memory serve's me correct they are quite large and extremely expensive. sorry not much use for steam heating here in south florida so its been around 10 years since i bought any steam traps
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  #59 (permalink)  
Old 03-10-2007, 06:53 AM
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For those that are drain challenged. A cheap reliable automatic drain that cycles for a couple seconds every time the compressor cycles is available. Helps prevent excess water, mold , mildew and that vauge feeling of bad breath.
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Old 03-10-2007, 09:20 AM
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61, I could'nt agree more since it seems one of the biggest failures in an air line system is the failure to drain!
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