Does anyone know if pvc foam board and fiberglass are compatible? I can not find a msds or tech sheet for the product I have. Anyone have success laying up fiberglass on pvc foam board. I googled it and came up short on a reliable answer. Thank You in advance, JCAR
Yep, that is exactly what I am about to do. I was just wondering if anyone has been successful at it, tips, tricks, etc. I don't always realize something is impossible right away!! JCAR
I don't think the resin will melt the foamboard, but I don't know for sure. I do know that it is heat formable and will withstand temperatures in the 250* range. Did you post your question on Fiberglass Forums? Here's the link: CLICK HERE
Any sign shop or plastic supplier should have it or be able to get it. Like this place: CLICK HERE Click on "Plastics" then "Sheet" then scroll down to PVC. PVC foamboard is also called expanded PVC or closed cell PVC, and the brand they handle is Celtec.
I use 3MM (about 1/8") and 6MM (about 1/4"). I use the 3MM the most by far to make panels with. It cuts with regular woodworking tools. If you want to drill holes, especially large holes, Forstner bits work the best.
Randy: This stuff is solid, and comes in 4' by 8' sheets, it's not like the stuff in the bottom of a flower pot.
thanks dan. i have a car coming up that i am doing the interior . it is one i am building to sell and will be pretty exotic inside.
46 ford sedan, top laid down 3 in in front , 108 in wb ( same as vette ) 59 chevy dash , mostly painted metal inside. will use the foam board to make all the panels. at least i hope i get it done. first complete interior .
Yea... I know what your talking about Mr. Dan...Just wanted him to know it's also good for laying up fiber glass....Sorry.. I jumped in with something a little of topic.. :drunk:
Any sign shop or plastic supplier should have it or be able to get it. Like this place: CLICK HERE Click on "Plastics" then "Sheet" then scroll down to PVC. PVC foamboard is also called expanded PVC or closed cell PVC, and the brand they handle is Celtec.
I pay about $26 for the 3MM 4' by 8' sheets. My supplier also has 5' by 10' sheets. If you drill large holes in it, use Forstner bits if you have them, or spade bits, but go real slow and/or put a backer board under where you drill. Auger bits seem to tear it up.
yep, that is a great price. I just paid 40 bucks a sheet from a national big-box plastics store.....I think I will look for an additional supplier. This is my first attempt at using the stuff and I am really happy with the way it bends and shapes. I have not tried to glue it, or glue to it, yet. It does sew nice though !!. Any suggestions for gluing? I use top and trim adhesive for most applications because interior temps around here can exceed 120 often. Should I abrade the surface before I glue? I also have an area that i needed to pie-cut and I want to cement the edges back together, I am thinking PVC cement may work? Thank You, JCAR
Thank you, moderators for dealing with this site. It is a great resource, and I am sure it takes more of your time than most of us contributers realize.
yep, that is a great price. I just paid 40 bucks a sheet from a national big-box plastics store.....I think I will look for an additional supplier. This is my first attempt at using the stuff and I am really happy with the way it bends and shapes. I have not tried to glue it, or glue to it, yet. It does sew nice though !!. Any suggestions for gluing? I use top and trim adhesive for most applications because interior temps around here can exceed 120 often. Should I abrade the surface before I glue? I also have an area that i needed to pie-cut and I want to cement the edges back together, I am thinking PVC cement may work? Thank You, JCAR
You can use thin or gel type super glue (cyanoacrylate glue), or PVC solvent cement to glue the PVC foamboard to itself. The super glue works best. I have had good luck gluing the board face to face with foam to foam contact adhesive.
You don't need to scuff the foamboard when you use top and trim adhesive, but you do need to scuff closed cell foam lightly to glue it to the foamboard, or anything else for that matter.
DanTwoLakes, thank you for the reply...I actually found an old thread where you discussed scuffing the panels...I didn't look hard enough the first time, sorry...Thank You for answering it again.
Now the fiberglass test, My test results are that fiberglass does not stick to PVC foam board, but it does not damage it either. So, the silver lining in all of this for me was that I made a killer mold in a few minutes with a panel of PVC foam board and a heat gun, and I can use the mold again. I pulled the glass when it was "green", because it is easier and cleaner to trim, but I do not think it made a difference. It was "sticky" to the board which helped the layup, but it was not sticky enough to be a permanent bond. I really like this board, it saved me a ton of wood working time...I just need to find a cheaper supplier, I got mine from TAP BTW, 40 bucks a sheet for 1/8" white, and I picked it up at the store.
I know this is an old thread, but anyone who is looking for this material will find it in abundant sizes and colors at sign supply dealers at reasonable prices. This also saves excessive shipping costs if you are near any moderate-sized city.
Sintra is the most common common brand name, though there are a few others. They'll know what you want for "a sheet of Sintra board".
Sintra, Komatex, Palight, and CelTec are all name brands for PVC foamboard, which is also called closed cell PVC, foamed PVC, and expanded PVC. Besides sign shops, look for it also at sheet plastic supply houses. The one I deal with has it in 4' by 8' sheets as well as 5' by 10' sheets in two different thicknesses.
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