I just got a zipper foot today for the Tacsew. After installing it, I can see how this foot becomes a favorite.
My question is, I noticed there are teeth on the bottom side of the needle foot ... but there are no teeth on the bottom sides of the needle-feet on my regular foot or on my welting foot -- is there a reason that there are teeth on the bottom of the needle foot for the zipper foot but *not* on the other types of feet?
This makes me favor the zipper foot for yet another reason -- it seems to me that there's gonna be a better movement of the material with teeth on the bottom of the needle foot ... yes?
Before you screw around with the treadle and the linkage, you need to reduce the ratio between the top pulley on the sewing machine and the bottom pulley on the clutch motor. The pulley on the clutch motor is probably held on with a large nut on top of a lock washer and a serrated washer. Pulleys are a standard item at hardware stores. The only thing you need to know is the shaft diameter and the keyway. ( both are standard for the shaft size, so remember the shaft size, which is probably 1/2") If the ratio is 1 to 1, reduce it to 3 to 2 (3" on top and 3" on the bottom to 3" on top and 2" on the bottom) That will reduce the speed of the machine 33 1/3% all through the speed range. Then you have to change belt sizes. To compute the correct belt size, measure the distance between the center of the shaft on the sewing machine and the center of the shaft on the clutch motor. Say that's 16". Double that, making it 32". Then add 1/2 the circumference of the top pulley times 3.1417(pi) to 1/2 the circumference of the bottom pulley times 3.1417(pi), and add them together. If the top pulley is 3" in diameter, that measurement is 4.7125. If the bottom pulley diameter is 2", that measurement is 3.1417. 30" plus 4.7125, plus 3.1417 equals 40.8542" The belt you need is a 3L410. 3/8" wide by 41" in outside diameter. Also available at the local hardware store. That will solve your speed problem, and when you have more experience, you can change the ratio back to a faster speed.
Dan,
Generally when I bind carpet there is no visible stitching. I just use the standard method by stitching the binding on the top side then folding it over the edge and gluing on the backside. I do use a guide attached to the bed of my machine for a uniform width. The carpet edge of course, must be trimed straight. I have several binders, some that I made and some that I bought from CutSewService. I use brass shim stock about .040 thick for any attachments that I make. This is easy to form and can be soldered to a heavier brass plate where it screws to the bed. I'm sure you could make a carpet binder to suit your needs.
Thanks Jim. I think I'm an oddball, 'cuz I like to see the stitching in the binding. maybe I should re-think my position on that, 'cuz nobody seems to agree with me anyway! Do you solder or braize the shim stock, or is braizing too much for the brass to handle?
Dan, I use an old soldering iron I've had for thirty years. It's electric and pretty large so it puts out a lot of heat. I haven't had good luck with a propane torch because it puts out too much heat. I use the hardware varity lead solder, rosin core and a little soldering paste. Plenty strong, brazing would be overkill. You could probably use the old Weller type trigger gun but you may have to work at it to get enough heat. Brass is a good conductor of heat and want's to suck the heat away from the solder joint. Give it a try you will be surprised what you can make for your machine to make life easier and faster.
I just re-read the entire thread, your webpage, and the original thread where you discuss the modifications you made to your machine. You replaced the pully on the MOTOR not the machine! It's Old-Timers Disease, I tell ya...
I say again - duhhhhhhhh.......
In the immortal words of Emily Litella - "Never Mind!"
DanTwoLakes said:
Before you screw around with the treadle and the linkage, you need to reduce the ratio between the top pulley on the sewing machine and the bottom pulley on the clutch motor.
The only reason I'm going to touch my treadle at all is because I have about 1/2 - 3/4 inch of pedal travel total. I need a bit more travel than that because basically the machine is stopped or it's running at top speed. I might as well just have an on-off switch rather than a foot pedal. I don't mind the speed, I just don't need it all the time. I know there's a mid range in there someplace, and I need to find it. I'm adjusting the linkage little by little and finding that I get a bit more pedal travel that way, but I think I've about adjusted that all I can. I'll probably end up looking for a smaller pully for my motor (now that I re-read everything and figured out the pully I need goes on the motor and not the machine - duhhhhhhhh,) but right now I need the pedal to be able to adjust the speed, no matter how fast that speed is.
Sorry for the confusion, Alan. I was merely announcing my stupidity to all of the forum members. I had mistakenly thought that you had modified your machine by replacing the pulley on the machine, and not the pulley on the motor. That's why I mentioned the fact that the pulley and the hand wheel on the machine are one piece. Now that I understand that you replaced the pulley on your motor, I better understand what you were trying to tell me. Call it a blonde moment, Old-Timer's Disease, or just plain not paying attention. I just misread your posts, Alan, that's all.
Then I was trying to let Dan know why I am going to modify my treadle like you did - I need more pedal travel. The pedal travel on my treadle is such a small amount, I can't control the speed, except for just turning it on and off - it either runs flat out at top speed, or it's off. There's almost no "variable speed" action on this treadle at all. I don't really need to slow the machine down, I just need to be able to control how much speed I apply.
I guess in straightening myself out I confused everyone else - lol. Sorry about that.
I get it. After you adjust the treadle travel (say that fast three times) if it still runs too fast, you also have ratio problems. What are the diameters of the pulley on the machine and the pulley on the clutch motor? If the pulley on the clutch motor is as big, or bigger, than the pulley on the machine, it would be very hard for you to control the speed. The speed of the motor should be 1725 RPM, is that what it says on the label? You can always change back to the original pulley after you get the hang of the machine.
Correction: When I said "I don't understand what you guys are talking about," I was referring to what fordSR and Dan were discussing:
fordSR:
I do use a guide attached to the bed of my machine for a uniform width. The carpet edge of course, must be trimed straight. I have several binders, some that I made and some that I bought from CutSewService. I use brass shim stock about .040 thick for any attachments that I make. This is easy to form and can be soldered to a heavier brass plate where it screws to the bed. I'm sure you could make a carpet binder to suit your needs.
Dusty one thing that might help with the control issue is this.
At the top of the treadle bar, up near the motor, there should be a wingnut that pre-loads a spring. If you loosen that spring the motor should engage with less sensitivity, and more control.
I don't know if all machines have that, but the few I have owned do and should help you out.
Also, to get uniform widths and stitches, use the foot as a guide. WHat do you mean mark? Well, since you asked, when doing a wide frech seam, (seen on most american and late model cars) I place the inside of hte foot right on the seam. And keep it there as you sew. On narrower ones (seen in higher end cars) I move the seam to the outside of the inner foot and keep it there. it's only about an 1/8th in. difference but the visual is huge.
It makes total sense, Mark. That's exactly how I did my french seams this week, on my first set of projects (boots) ... only I kept my zipper foot a little less than 1/16th-inch to the right of the seam.
I have a servo motor on my Tacsew ... that spring you mention is there but I couldn't see any way of adjusting it.
Dusty one thing that might help with the control issue is this.
At the top of the treadle bar, up near the motor, there should be a wingnut that pre-loads a spring. If you loosen that spring the motor should engage with less sensitivity, and more control.
I don't know if all machines have that, but the few I have owned do and should help you out.
I went out to the garage about 10 minutes ago and found the spring and wing nut you described, and I loosened it up a bit. That did increase the treadle travel quite a bit. I haven't tried sewing with it yet - still a bit too cold out there. I cut out the pieces to make my machine cover this morning, and as soon as it warms up a bit (supposed to be in the high 70's again today - woohoo!) I'm going to sew it together. Of course I'll report back on how the adjustment worked, and post a pic of the finished cover.
DanTwoLakes said:
What are the diameters of the pulley on the machine and the pulley on the clutch motor? If the pulley on the clutch motor is as big, or bigger, than the pulley on the machine, it would be very hard for you to control the speed. The speed of the motor should be 1725 RPM, is that what it says on the label?
While I was outside this morning, I measured the pulleys and checked out the motor. Yep, it's 1725 RPM, and the pulley on the motor has a 3 1/2" diameter. The pulley on the machine has a 3 1/4" diameter. So basically I need to go with a smaller pulley on the motor? What size would you recommend?
As I said in my reply to Sniper above, I adjusted the spring on the actuator arm a few minutes ago and that did increase the pedal travel some. The guy I got this from had it tightened down so that the spring was compressed about half way. I backed it off about half that distance, and I'm going to try it, then adjust it from there. Then I'm going to make my machine cover.
Again, you guys are the best. Thanks for all of your help.
Marktoobytheway: If after you adjust the spring with the wingnut on the end you still feel it's too fast, go down to a 2 1/4" or 2 1/2" diameter pulley. That will reduce the top end and all speeds thoughout the speed range by about 1/3rd. If you go with the 2 1/4" pulley, you need a belt that is exactly 2" longer.
The treadle on a machine with a clutch motor is not a speed control.It just engages the clutch or disengages it.So its either going or not.You control the speed of the machine by slipping the clutch with your foot. You can slow the whole machine down by changing the pulley but then to go really slow you still have to slip the clutch.
The treadle on a machine with a clutch motor is not a speed control.It just engages the clutch or disengages it.So its either going or not.You control the speed of the machine by slipping the clutch with your foot. You can slow the whole machine down by changing the pulley but then to go really slow you still have to slip the clutch.
The spring is there to adjust treadle tension. So by adjusting it you gain some control. It's easier for a newbie to ease into clutch engagement then to have a direct connect.
Sometimes it's worth trying to work with what you have before swapping parts. Well, that's my method anyway.
Yes, you are absolutely right, the treadle just engages the clutch motor. But.....there are several adjustments that can help the whole process. That's why I told Dusty if adjusting the the treadle doesn't help him enough, he needed to slow the whole process down. Doing this will help gain some control. I did say that once he was more familiar with the machine, he could change the pulleys back. What I didn't say, but should have, was that he needed to get more practice running the machine and easing into the speed of the motor.
trimmer2 said:
The treadle on a machine with a clutch motor is not a speed control.It just engages the clutch or disengages it.So its either going or not.You control the speed of the machine by slipping the clutch with your foot. You can slow the whole machine down by changing the pulley but then to go really slow you still have to slip the clutch.
Certainly, getting familiar with the machine by sewing some real simple projects, like I did with the boots, is what is necessary. The little bit of sewing I've done has made a huge difference for me ... I'm gaining confidence; learning where to keep my eyes fixed (on the foot and the seam, not the needle) and I'm beginning to sew steadier; learning how to steer the material.
Another trick for beginners, I think, is to sew in short bursts.
That small pulley sure helped me out with going at a slower pace. I imagine, at some point, I may want to put the larger pulley back on again, like Dan says.
I agree but the bottom line is practice and learning how to slip the clutch.When I try to show some one I tell them to wiggle their ankle up and down till the clutch just grabs till they get the feel.
I agree but the bottom line is practice and learning how to slip the clutch.When I try to show some one I tell them to wiggle their ankle up and down till the clutch just grabs till they get the feel.
You'll not get an argument out of me! Man do I ever need to practice!
I got a bit cocky yesterday, and tried to sew together my sewing machine cover. Well, I did realize that I had to readjust my tensions when I threaded up the machine with the thread I was going to use. What I didn't realize was that it was going to take all flippin afternoon to finally get things dialed in right! I had my top thread getting tangled in the bobbin and things like that. Needless to say, by the time I got everything adjusted, it was time for dinner, and I didn't get the cover made. Remember - I'm flying blind here. I've never done anything like this before. Anyway, now it's all set and ready to make the cover - next weekend.
That wing nut adjustment worked a treat! It is a lot easier to control now, but I am going to go look for a smaller pulley so I don't screw up my clutch - thanks for that info Dan!
Adjusting the thread tensions was one of my first "lessons" too, Mark. And, like they tell you in the Auto Interiors books, one of the first things we need to learn is to adjust the thread tensions every time we use different materials.
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