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Old 03-30-2004, 08:59 PM
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Quadrajet carb

I have an 84 gmc truck with a quadrajet carb. Lately it seems to not want to work that good, it doesn't give enough fuel and bogs when I first get on it. I would like to rebuild the carb but never have, what solution do I need to remove the gum in the carb? Any other tips would help. Thanks

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Old 03-30-2004, 09:12 PM
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I put 216,000 miles on a 305 in an '85 Pontiac Parisienne that I bought new. It had a Q-jet and about twice a year I squirted carb cleaner inside and out. Never took it off. It never gave me a problem. I sold it to a guy that put another 100,000 or so on it and as far as I know the carb was still ok.
I'd just try spraying it. If it doesn't help, you're only out a couple of bucks.
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Old 03-31-2004, 12:13 AM
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I've rebuilt a q jet a time or two but they are not really worth fixing after they are worn out.

But the carb may just need a small adjustment. or the timing may need reset.
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Old 03-31-2004, 12:52 AM
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Give it a dose of Berryman's Injector Cleaner in the gas tank too. It cleans the carb from the inside.
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Old 04-04-2004, 12:24 PM
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I've tried cleaner both in the carb and through the tank and it does not help. What kind of adjustments do you recommend??
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Old 04-04-2004, 02:06 PM
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Buy a kit and rebuild it................it's not hard. Just remember how things go when you disassemble it.
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Old 04-05-2004, 12:11 AM
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poncho is right ...rebuild it. The spec sheet has a blown apart drawing of the carb on it so if you forget where something goes just look at the spec sheet. When you take it apart, lay out the pieces in a row on a clean towel. Its best to soak the parts in a carb cleaner solution, then wash out the solution with water then use compressed air to blow out the water. Then reassemble the carb in the order you took them out., The trick on those is when you install the top not to bind the metering rods. Put the top on slowly and carefully while lining up the rods. You will also need a small punch to remove the accelerator pump rod pivot pin. The last thing i should mention is to remove the screw and linkage at the choke plate before you remove the top. Its a little tricky reinstalling the choke rod in the well but with a little patience and a pair of needle nose pliers is not that hard. The bog could be a worn accelerator pump cup, and that is not fixable without a kit. The kit runs about $40. Hey.... you got nothin to loose. When you buy a rebuilt you never know what your getting because it be for a whole lot of different cars and applications. Its ALWAYS best to rebuild an original equipment carb or rebuild a carb with the original application numbers so its calibrated with correct rods and jets. I paid $35 for one in the junkyard last week and got it off the same type of car as the one I'm doing.
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Old 04-25-2004, 12:19 PM
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OK, I rebuilt the carb. THen after re-installing I started it up and it ran fine but then I flooded it and it would not stay running, So I put a bolt into the Choke mechanism so it would not choke, it started but then now I hear a grinding, did I F up the spring inside there? also my choke light goes on and off now. Also I noticed I forgot to hook up the wire going to the choke until afte I put the bolt in the choke. Any help. Signed *******.
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Old 04-25-2004, 04:08 PM
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If it is an electric choke you should be able to loosen three screws on the choke housing and adjust the choke so you don't need a screw to hold it open. As for the flashing choke light it sounds like a short in the line which would be a cause for the flashing and your choke not opening properly. Try checking the wire with a volt meter or a test light. i am not sure what the grinding could be, it is probably because you are straining the spring by pushing it with the screw. If you are still having troubles you may want to consider picking up a book by Doug Roe or a haynes manual on q-jets. I recently went through my own q-jet tuning problems and those books helped, along with a few searches of past posts on this site.

Good Luck
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