Originally Posted by Siggy_Freud
The way the choke is setup, it would have to coil up over time to open the choke.
That's exactly what happens- the coil gets "tighter" w/heat applied, i.e. it turns CCW as you face the coil like in your photo.
There are cases where the bimetal coil has fallen off the center peg that secures it, and was reinstalled 'upside down'. This will cause the direction of travel when heated to be wrong. Yours isn't wrong, though- I just mention it in case someone else finds this thread.
If the choke heater isn't heating the coil up, it can take forever to get warm enough to allow the choke to open- if it ever
gets that hot just from engine heat, that is. The choke needs to be grounded. This is supposed to be accomplished by the fit of the coil module to the carb choke housing, then through the carb to the intake, etc. If there's a problem w/grounding, one of the rivets can be drilled out and replaced by a machine screw inserted from the inside, out. Secure the screw w/a nut and lock washer, then run the ground to the screw and secure the ground terminal w/a second nut. This shouldn't be necessary the majority of the time, but I mention it just in case running a jumper from the thermostat to a ground gets it working.
As far as a source for current to the choke heater, I'd recommend you use an "ignition" circuit that is hot only
w/the key in the ON or RUN position and not hot when the key is on ACCESSORY. On vehicles like your '68, a common fix is to use the wiper motor wire, it's yellow IIRC. The added current draw of the choke heater is insignificant and the fuse doesn't need to be changed to accommodate the heater.