![]() |
|
|
|
|||||
|
Does your carb have a hot idle compensator? It will cause the idle to raise if stuck open.
Take the throttle body off and hold up to alight to check the throttle plate seal against the bore of the throttles. The screws in the shafts have to be tightened with the throttle held closed to force the plates to orient themselves to each bore. |
|
||||||
|
Double check the fast idle screw isnt too tight.
Loosen screws on throttle blades and recenter them in the bores. A faulty APT adjustment could keep the primary rods from fully seating in the jet, richening the mixture. Easy enough to check though with the air horn off. Idle mixture screws on a Q jet really dont adjust the A/F mixture, they simply adjust the volume of the available mixture below the throttle plates. |
|
||||||
|
APT adjustment isn't the issue. What did the carb come off of originally? Barring any vacuum leaks, you're prolly going to find the idle bypass air orifices are too large for the 4.3L V6- the bypass acts like a controlled vacuum leak. If partially closing the choke blade or holding your hand over the primary side causes the idle to drop, then there's your answer. See what size they are now and close them accordingly. Again- no vacuum leaks!
Obviously you need to be real sure the choke/fast idle adjustment/cam/linkage isn't causing the primary shaft to hang open. Has this carb ever run correctly? Warped castings or mismatched/torn gaskets can allow in too much unmetered air. Last edited by cobalt327; 01-13-2013 at 10:02 PM. Reason: Add choke info. |
| The Following User Says Thank You to cobalt327 For This Useful Post: | ||
DoubleVision (01-14-2013) | ||
|
||||||
|
This carb came off a 1979 chevy truck with a stock 350. However the throttle body came off a sean murphy carb. The throttle bodies between the two were identical except the SM body had the easily adjustable air mix screws while the factory body does not. There is no choke or fast idle assembly. I always remove them as down here where I live it don't get cold enough to need a choke. I did plug the vacuum coming off the side of the carb where the choke housing was. On the truck the carb was on originally the former owner told me when he drove it home it ran okay with the only issue being old gas.
When I got the carb from him it was still on the truck and hadn't been removed. He parked the truck when he found the frame was rotten. When I disassembled it I was surprised at how good the condition was. It was clean with only a little fuel residue in the bottom which washed out with carb cleaner. How do I go about changing the idle orifices? Also the original throttle body wasn't worn out, it has very little play in the shafts I didn't use it only because of the difference in adjustable idle mixture screws. Thanks for the help. |
|
||||||
|
Quote:
There are several different locations for the orifices, but they're all adjacent to the primary throttle bores of the baseplate. The sizes vary from no opening at all to around 1/8". Measure them w/a drill bit. Carbs from bulk rebuilders will often have the bypass channels or orifices blocked off w/lead shot tapped into the casting. This can be fairly easily removed if it's encountered- but I doubt that's going to be your problem (no bypass air). They block them in various places, sometimes the baseplate, other times in the carb body. If this ever comes up, follow the channels from the baseplate into the body and you'll find the holes I'm talking about. Often these rebuilt carbs will use cheap unplated brass metering rods (unmarked) and might even have unmarket jets. The older style I call the 'tunnel' type (circles): ![]() The later type I call 'tab' type. Some have two like on the left (right tab would be where the circle is), most look like the one here; one orifice is in the left tab, the other is just inside the bore (arrow):
|
| The Following User Says Thank You to cobalt327 For This Useful Post: | ||
DoubleVision (01-14-2013) | ||
|
||||||
|
IIRC, my Q-jet originally from a 4.3L V6 (17086047) has no bypass orifices. So I would say to block them off entirely, then you can add bypass air only if it's needed. If your cam requires a lot of initial timing you might need some bypass air to keep from opening the primary butterflies too far. The bypass air is similar to drilling holes in the primaries.
|
| The Following User Says Thank You to cobalt327 For This Useful Post: | ||
DoubleVision (01-14-2013) | ||
|
||||||
|
You're always welcome DV. I added an edit in case you missed it. No biggie, just some info you probably already know, but might help someone doing a search someday.
|
|
||||||
|
That's a thought Nuts, but I made sure I checked before installation and they all matched. I went on and removed the base plate I found the holes were open and they're quite big. So I shot some cleaner through them, found where the holes were on the opposite side and filled them both with solder that I melted with a hand torch. Here before long I'll reassemble it and give it another shot. Thanks again for the heads up Cobalt.
|
|
||||||
|
Cobalt , my hats off to you if i can get a Qjet to run 50% of the time im happy ,I have to stay with what i was raised with ,Holley.
|
|
|
| Recent Engine posts with photos |
| Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
| Thread Tools | |
|
|
Similar Threads
|
||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| Another quadrajet question | ChadGresham | Engine | 19 | 04-23-2012 08:06 AM |
| quadrajet question | jak327 | Engine | 2 | 04-24-2010 09:51 AM |
| Quadrajet question | Speakrdude | Engine | 10 | 10-25-2009 01:16 PM |
| Quadrajet Question | super_silent | Engine | 9 | 05-27-2008 08:08 PM |
| Quadrajet Question(s) | lardmaster | Engine | 5 | 02-08-2004 05:59 PM |