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Old 09-14-2005, 08:50 AM
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Quarter miles question

Hi,

I want to know if this time on my first quarter miles are good for my setup!

I was running 11.68, at 117 mph.

I run on 91 octane gaz street pump gaz and I have 9.5:1 CR.

There is my setup:

Chevy Nova SS 74 (3700 pounds)
454 bored 0.60 (468 CI) Compression Ratio arount 9.45
Oval port Head (353049) Ported and polish Stage 3
Valve Job 3 angle 2.19-1.88 Manley Severy duty Valves
1.509 Dual Competition Valve Spring (matched to the cam)
Chrome moly Retainer and 10 degre lock (matched to valvetrain)
115 CC chamber (Original Head Shaved 65 thousand)
1.70 full Roller Crane Cam
305 H Hydrolic Radical Cam 575 lift Int/Ext. 305 duration Int/Ext 253 at .050
4.310 Speed Pro hypereuthetic Piston with 0.100 dome 1 valve relief
D.U.I mechanical Distributor
Spark Plug Wires, 409 Pro Race, 10.4 mm
6.135 - 5130 I beam Rod
Scat 4.00 Crank Nodular Iron
I beam 6.135 Rod
Everything Balanced and Blueprinted
3500 B&M Stall
39 Thousand Head Gasket with sleeve (fel-pro)
20 thousand Deck (around)
Weiand Team-G 7523 (2,500-7,900 RPM) Ported to Matched to the head (ported)
Mighy Demon 750 mechanical
TH350 Transmission with TCI shift Kit
3.73 Rear End (8.5 ten bolts)
Muffler: Flowmaster deltaflow 50 series
Tire: Mickey Thompson Drag Radial , 28in.x 11.50in.x 15in
Landrum Mono-Leaf Spring
Competition Engineering Frame-Connector
Competition Engineering Front-Rear Drag shocks (Adjustable)
Double Timing chain (Comp-Cam)
Weiand Team G aluminum Water pump
4 core radiator (cooper)
Zirgo 3300 CFM electric fan + two 1500 9 inch fan
Moroso Coil Spring (front)
Competition Engineering Slide-a-link Traction Bar

I think my slide a link traction bar are not properly setup, pinion angle not ajust and the carb really not well ajust.

Do you think I'm supposed to go lower than 11.68 with this setup???

Need opinion or advice

THanks in advance, Stephane

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Old 09-15-2005, 07:53 AM
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does that stock 10 bolt take the beating very well ? times look good, I'm Guessing it Could Go Lower in the 12s. this a fresh setup ? you have a bunch of cash in this motor & tranny setup ? Lets See Some Pics.








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Old 09-15-2005, 08:49 AM
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You seem to be on the money. Your rearend is a little short. What's your 60 foot time? If you are around 1.6 you are not having traction problems.
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Old 09-15-2005, 08:50 AM
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All I can say is nice times and it sounds like you should get even lower. Congrats hope you get to enjoy her some sounds like you've been doing alot of work.How well was it hooking were you getting good 60's? Was the weather good or humid and dry? Altitude? How were the other cars running that night/day?
BTW unlike alot of people now a days I consider any "real" street car that runs mid 12's or better fast.
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Old 09-15-2005, 10:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bracketeer
You seem to be on the money. Your rearend is a little short. What's your 60 foot time? If you are around 1.6 you are not having traction problems.
My 60 foot time is 1.71, but I'm not able to launch the tree more than 1100 rpm, I think my traction bar (slide-a-link are not properly ajust), because I have a 3500 stall and If I launch at 3500 rpm or 3000, my tire spine at least the half quarter miles!
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Old 09-15-2005, 10:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BooWFO
All I can say is nice times and it sounds like you should get even lower. Congrats hope you get to enjoy her some sounds like you've been doing alot of work.How well was it hooking were you getting good 60's? Was the weather good or humid and dry? Altitude? How were the other cars running that night/day?
BTW unlike alot of people now a days I consider any "real" street car that runs mid 12's or better fast.
So it's mean I have a real street car... I used this car to go work 3 day a week, and I fuel it at 91 octan gaz...so It's a real car...

The weather was dry, and the altitude??? really dont know!

I know the timming was not good too, (it was be better at 34 degre)
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Old 09-15-2005, 10:41 AM
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???

Quote:
Originally Posted by bracketeer
You seem to be on the money. Your rearend is a little short. What's your 60 foot time? If you are around 1.6 you are not having traction problems.
What do you mean when you said my rearend is a little short????
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Old 09-15-2005, 10:44 AM
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I can said yes!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mustangsaly
does that stock 10 bolt take the beating very well ? times look good, I'm Guessing it Could Go Lower in the 12s. this a fresh setup ? you have a bunch of cash in this motor & tranny setup ? Lets See Some Pics.
Mustangsaly
My stock 10 bolts take the load very weel. My setup is very fresh, at the first sunny day of this summer. I was spending aroun 10000$ canadian for the whole motor, Oil pan to carb.

My tranny is a Th350, rebuilt 4 years ago.

How I can add picture?? I really dont know
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Old 09-15-2005, 12:23 PM
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Yeah from reading your list it sounded like a "real" street car not this I take it to the track on a trailer and the tube chassis was built XX and so forth and so on bs that people claim are street cars. heck if you have to have race gas it ain't a street car to me.
1.7 60' ? are your DR's new? Because it seems most hook better after a few heat cycles. Also seems like no 2 people have the same outcome with their burnouts with them. I'm currently using BFG dr's on my stang and if I do a 5 or 6 sec burnout they just spin. If I roll in and then do a clutch drop rolling burnout they hook better. Has me competely confused. Also I didn't see where you listed tire pressure mine seem to like 12-14 psi the best. Also I imagine you have a good amount of torque so that might be why your spinning.
Your using a 10bolt?? ok I fragged one of those with a 305. hope she holds up well for you.
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Old 09-15-2005, 12:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BooWFO
Yeah from reading your list it sounded like a "real" street car not this I take it to the track on a trailer and the tube chassis was built XX and so forth and so on bs that people claim are street cars. heck if you have to have race gas it ain't a street car to me.
1.7 60' ? are your DR's new? Because it seems most hook better after a few heat cycles. Also seems like no 2 people have the same outcome with their burnouts with them. I'm currently using BFG dr's on my stang and if I do a 5 or 6 sec burnout they just spin. If I roll in and then do a clutch drop rolling burnout they hook better. Has me competely confused. Also I didn't see where you listed tire pressure mine seem to like 12-14 psi the best. Also I imagine you have a good amount of torque so that might be why your spinning.
Your using a 10bolt?? ok I fragged one of those with a 305. hope she holds up well for you.
You are right, I was running 20 PSI on my tire, probably too much!!!
and second thing, I was spining too much, a already do a major smoke show, just for your information, I had brand new MT drag radial, and after only one day, completely gone, the tire not stick on the road anymore..!! My fault, I like, me and my brother to impress all the people on the drag way...

You probably had a defect 10 bolts if you destroy it with only a 305, normally, I heard a 10 bolts can handle 600 HP, it's depend only on the 0-60 foots, if you do it around 1.4, there is a problem.
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Old 09-15-2005, 12:48 PM
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A mid 11's car should be turning a 1.6 60 foot time. With a 1.71 time you are spinning your tires. The shorter the rear the easier it is to spin the tires. For eg; It is easier to spin a 3.73 rear than it is a 4.71. You will also have a high mph and a low ET. For eg; with a taller gear you would be running 11.0 at 109 mph. Having real slicks would be an asset.
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Old 09-15-2005, 01:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bracketeer
A mid 11's car should be turning a 1.6 60 foot time. With a 1.71 time you are spinning your tires. The shorter the rear the easier it is to spin the tires. For eg; It is easier to spin a 3.73 rear than it is a 4.71. You will also have a high mph and a low ET. For eg; with a taller gear you would be running 11.0 at 109 mph. Having real slicks would be an asset.
When you said taller gear, you want to said 4.10 or lower gear.
I dont understand your sentence: ''with a taller gear you would be running 11.0 at 109 mph''

I have another question, right now, on my nova I can't put larger than 28*11.5*15, but next year, I will try REal slick on quarter miles like 29.5*9*15. If I run MT drag radial on the streat with a 4.10 on 28 inch tall tire and 29.5 real slick on quarter miles, I want to know if I will have best of both world?

I was talking to a guy, a expert in rear suspension, he said my traction, and pinion angle are not set really properly, he said I will be able to launch at least 3000 rpm after make the necessary change.
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Old 09-15-2005, 02:10 PM
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Don't know if this helps you or not but I've seen used circle track slicks sell for like $50 a pair on ebay. You might wanna try a set. But yeah drop the tire pressure makes a world of difference in DR's also play with your burnout or try it on the street taking off and see what works.
It's clear you got the power now you just need to plant it. That or just say heck with it throw a nitrous kit on there and spray into the low 11's or 10's.
I know BFG's hook better after all that stupid tread stuff is gone.
yeah I fraged a 10bolt with a 305 a "stock" one at that. Burnouts are bad MMMMKKKAAAYYY.
BTW those MT dr's are suppose to HOOK like (oh man can't say what I normally say).
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Old 09-15-2005, 02:21 PM
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The taller the gear the lower the ratio.

Slide a links are supposed to be scaled. You put each car wheel on a scale (lbs) and adjust the links for equal weight distribution (with you in the car) between the back wheels.

Instructions to set it up without scales:
Adjustments without corner scales
1. With the vehicle on LEVEL ground, roll it back and forth in a straight line at least five feet. This is very
important on vehicles equipped with a spool but is necessary for all types of limited slip differential
vehicles.
2. Block the front and back of one of your front tires to prevent movement.
3. Rotate the driver's side rear tube until the tube stops makes contact with the urethane shock pad. Rotate
the tube one additional turn to apply pre-load to the system.
4. Tighten the 1-1/8" jam nut while holding the welded nut on the rear tube with a wrench.
5. On the passenger side, rotate the rear tube until contact is made between the urethane shock pad and
the tube stops. Rotate the rear tube an additional 1-1/2" turns. The extra 1/2 a turn helps to compensate
for the driver's weight.
6. Tighten the 1-1/8" jam nut while holding the welded nut on the rear tube with a wrench.
7. Make one pass on the system, re-check all hardware, and repeat the pre-load adjustment procedure if
necessary.
As with any racing component, continual inspection of the Slide-A-Link traction system is recommended.
Re-lube the sliding parts every race to ensure proper operation.
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Old 10-05-2005, 07:00 PM
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[QUOTE=bracketeer]The taller the gear the lower the ratio.

**************

Here's how it has been for at least 6 decades:

Taller is lower numerically. = like 3.50 = less rpm
Lower is higher numerically. = like 4.56 = more rpm

like first gear is low gear, = more rpm
forth gear is high gear, = less rpm

high gear = tall gear
low gear = short gear

taller tires also give you a taller overall gear ratio = less rpm
shorter tires...... oh, never mind....

for many years we asked, "how's it geared?" and people would say "2800" as in 2800 rpm at 60 miles per hour in direct gear.(which is also rev per mile)... that takes into consideration the tire diameter also.
a 31 inch tire with 4.56s and a 25 inch tire with 3.50 are the same RPM. Make sense?

Last edited by xntrik; 10-05-2005 at 07:07 PM.
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