Quarter skin questions... - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Body - Exterior
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 07-30-2009, 04:53 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: va
Posts: 27
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quarter skin questions...

I need to replace the rear quarters on a '72 mustang coupe. I found a deal on a quarter skin for the right side, for now. It looks as if it was damaged at one point and alot of filler was used, along with it rusting out over time. I seen a post where the skin is to go over your exsisting quarter panel. Is that true? If thats the case I just wasted a $100 on this skin. I need to replace with new metal. I was told get a skin, its not a whole lot of difference than a full quarter. But im not sure if its what I really need now, maybe a full quarter is whats needed. Anyways, can I just cut out what needs to go, and weld the new skin in place? Thanks in advance..

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 07-30-2009, 05:56 AM
ericnova72's Avatar
More for Less Racer
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: S.W. Lower Michigan
Age: 47
Posts: 9,253
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 26
Thanked 428 Times in 392 Posts
The skin is used to replace what you cut out of the old quarter panel. Use as much as you want or need, it's up to you based on what the car needs. Sometimes (most times) it is easier to replace one big piece instead of three or four smaller pieces.

Slapping a skin on over the old rusted and collision damaged quarter is the "butchered" way to do it.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 07-30-2009, 06:36 AM
deadbodyman's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: Stripping paint Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: augusta,ga.
Age: 54
Posts: 6,106
Wiki Edits: 11

Thanks: 25
Thanked 448 Times in 377 Posts
agreed... plus it'll trap moisture between the panels and rot out in a year...the placement of the seam is MOST important...check it out.....stepping the seam gives it extra strengh for welding and helps prevent warpage get a flanger /punch from HF for 40-50.00 punch holes every 1"or two weld the holes at every fifth hole or so to keep the panel from getting to hot ..a quick shot with a wet rag after every weld helps but the panels will require customizing ,just a little ...and get a box of drill screws so you can remove and replace the 1/4 about a hundred times before welding.Ive found that 1 1/2" down from the top edge is perfect...same on a mustang...just run a piece of 1 1/2" masking tape along the edge and trim the final amount with hand snips.its a lot of work dont expect it to be perfect the first time.some 1/4's are so far off they cant be used check out the company from the pros before buying and beware of a deal,but you might get lucky with that one
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	100_2037 (Small).JPG
Views:	138
Size:	52.3 KB
ID:	39715   Click image for larger version

Name:	100_2055 (Small).JPG
Views:	380
Size:	39.5 KB
ID:	39716   Click image for larger version

Name:	100_2062 (Small).JPG
Views:	140
Size:	58.2 KB
ID:	39717   Click image for larger version

Name:	100_2111 (Small).JPG
Views:	305
Size:	29.0 KB
ID:	39718   Click image for larger version

Name:	100_2083 (Small).JPG
Views:	150
Size:	31.2 KB
ID:	39719  

Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 07-30-2009, 06:41 AM
deadbodyman's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: Stripping paint Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: augusta,ga.
Age: 54
Posts: 6,106
Wiki Edits: 11

Thanks: 25
Thanked 448 Times in 377 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman
agreed... plus it'll trap moisture between the panels and rot out in a year...the placement of the seam is MOST important...check it out.....stepping the seam gives it extra strengh for welding and helps prevent warpage get a flanger /punch from HF for 40-50.00 punch holes every 1"or two weld the holes at every fifth hole or so to keep the panel from getting to hot ..a quick shot with a wet rag after every weld helps but the panels will require customizing ,just a little ...and get a box of drill screws so you can remove and replace the 1/4 about a hundred times before welding.Ive found that 1 1/2" down from the top edge is perfect...same on a mustang...just run a piece of 1 1/2" masking tape along the edge and trim the final amount with hand snips.its a lot of work dont expect it to be perfect the first time.some 1/4's are so far off they cant be used check out the company from the pros before buying and beware of a deal,but you might get lucky with that one
I use a panel ripper with an air chisel for the first cut (red car) staying away from the edges in that pic I'm using 2" tape so I can make sure I end up with 1 1/2 " for final triming
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	100_6306 (Small).jpg
Views:	112
Size:	46.5 KB
ID:	39720   Click image for larger version

Name:	100_3813 (Small).jpg
Views:	112
Size:	57.6 KB
ID:	39721   Click image for larger version

Name:	100_3832 (Small).jpg
Views:	130
Size:	52.1 KB
ID:	39722  
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 07-31-2009, 04:55 AM
deadbodyman's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: Stripping paint Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: augusta,ga.
Age: 54
Posts: 6,106
Wiki Edits: 11

Thanks: 25
Thanked 448 Times in 377 Posts
I'm going backwards but your very first step should be adjusting the gaps and body lines in the door and 1/4 so you'll be starting with good gaps and ending with good gaps set your jack stands on the suspension not the frame or rockers... taking the weight off the suspension will screw up the gaps... and leave the door on you'll need it as a referance point.the front of the quarter should wrap around and be welded in the jamb,it saves distorting the 1/4 when welding and a lot of unnecessary bootywork...the bottom and backside welds up like stock at factory seams,use a hammer and dollie to straiten the seams on the car and the new 1/4...there are many ways to break the factory welds but the air chisel is expensive and most important...I bought an ingersol rand at lowes for under a 100.00 with a quick release head,I've been using it for three years stedily,its a good one at a reasonable price...no need to get the very best
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	100_2069 (Small).JPG
Views:	97
Size:	45.1 KB
ID:	39729   Click image for larger version

Name:	100_2107 (Small).JPG
Views:	99
Size:	54.7 KB
ID:	39730   Click image for larger version

Name:	100_5628 (Small).jpg
Views:	96
Size:	61.3 KB
ID:	39731  
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 07-31-2009, 05:00 AM
deadbodyman's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: Stripping paint Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: augusta,ga.
Age: 54
Posts: 6,106
Wiki Edits: 11

Thanks: 25
Thanked 448 Times in 377 Posts
Of course,you should always wear gloves and a good helper showing up really saves the day
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	100_5814 (Small).jpg
Views:	75
Size:	57.8 KB
ID:	39732   Click image for larger version

Name:	100_5811 (Small).jpg
Views:	87
Size:	49.3 KB
ID:	39733   Click image for larger version

Name:	100_5813 (Small).jpg
Views:	73
Size:	44.8 KB
ID:	39734  
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 07-31-2009, 09:30 AM
302 Z28's Avatar  
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2003
Location: North Texas
Posts: 10,837
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 86 Times in 73 Posts
Excellent work DMB

Vince
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 07-31-2009, 09:46 AM
deadbodyman's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: Stripping paint Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: augusta,ga.
Age: 54
Posts: 6,106
Wiki Edits: 11

Thanks: 25
Thanked 448 Times in 377 Posts
Thanks Vince...I only wish you still had that 69 302 it would be my next project when I get rid of this one...I used to build tri fives in Fla. but these sell better...go figure...
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 08-01-2009, 07:35 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: va
Posts: 27
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thank You! Ericnova, and DBM!! What I asked for and then some. I plan on going to where the car is located today and dropping off this skin! Thanks again... I will come back and post pictures of progress to finished once done.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 08-02-2009, 08:42 PM
onebadmerc's Avatar
I need a bucket of arc sparks
 
Last wiki edit: How to identify SB Ford heads without pulling them
Last journal entry: trunk floor
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Florence Colorado
Age: 43
Posts: 901
Wiki Edits: 1

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Your picking a hard car to do a quarter panel replacement on, the earlier Mustangs are alot easier. Whatever you do do not put new over old, cut it out and replace it. I started out on my 73 Mustang coupe by trying to patch just the rusted areas, it was a waste of my time. I ended up buying a repop and replaced the quarter, wheel well and trunk drop off. What you are most likely going to find is the wheel well and trunk drop off will be rusted. The thing I hate the most about 71-73 Mustang quarter panel skin replacements, is the body line by the door. The repops never match up like the originals, they just can't get it right. You can try to cut below the body line but most of the time the rust goes up higher than the body line. Then if you cut the quarter low and the wheel well is rusted you cannot access the wheel well with a low cut on the quarter. So if you replace the quarter with a skin then you will most likely have to cut it high up on the quarter panel above the body line. take a look at my project journal, it will give you a idea what is involved. I have a few details and pictures on my 73 Mustang quarter panel replacement.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 08-03-2009, 01:46 AM
deadbodyman's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: Stripping paint Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: augusta,ga.
Age: 54
Posts: 6,106
Wiki Edits: 11

Thanks: 25
Thanked 448 Times in 377 Posts
I'd like to see your pics badone... mabee help ...,I've solved that problem two ways in the past ...cameros too ...there certain spots that need special attention...I made a special tool just for reworking body lines...very ez to make
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 08-03-2009, 08:02 AM
onebadmerc's Avatar
I need a bucket of arc sparks
 
Last wiki edit: How to identify SB Ford heads without pulling them
Last journal entry: trunk floor
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Florence Colorado
Age: 43
Posts: 901
Wiki Edits: 1

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I have the pictures in my project journal but I don't know how to put them on this thread. The three quarter skins I have done on 71-73 Mustangs have a problem on their repo panels. The makers don't put the right curve in the panel. When you try to align up the body line on the quarter to the door it puts a bow in the panel. What I have done in the past is cut a small notch or two in the lip that welds onto the pillar support. I then push the panel inward and tack weld it. When everything aligns up I weld up the small notches and finish welding it up. If a person didn't have to cut out the body line it would make things alot easier, but Ford made a bad design. Rust usually goes up high on the quarter around the wheel well. So if you want a nice straight cut you have to go up high. Ford also put a brace attached to the outer wheel well on the 71-73 Mustangs. So if a person has to replace the wheel well on their car which will most likely be the case, they have to cut the quarter panel high. This is so they can access this brace and the wheel well lip so they can be removed. I just wish I had a bunch of pictures on this, it would be easier to describe. When he gets into his quarter on his 72 Mustang he will see exactly what is going on.

One other note, their is a small metal lip attached to the tail light panel and quarter panel, it is sandwiched in between the two. When removing the quarter panel, do not cut this small piece of metal off. This is there used to align the rear quarter up. I have a picture of it in my project journal, you will see it.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #13 (permalink)  
Old 08-03-2009, 03:06 PM
Wraith's Avatar
Born to lose,living to win
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Here
Posts: 36
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts



Deadbodyman: so you weld this seam right down the 1/4 panel? looks like alot of welding i will be trying 1/4 panel replacment for my frist time.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #14 (permalink)  
Old 08-03-2009, 04:01 PM
deadbodyman's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: Stripping paint Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: augusta,ga.
Age: 54
Posts: 6,106
Wiki Edits: 11

Thanks: 25
Thanked 448 Times in 377 Posts
wraith

A full quarter costs at least 600.00 and you'll lose a lot of time and it'll be a lot of unnecessary work and there will be alot more chance of screwing it up.if you screw up a hundred dollar panel you can screw it up six times and gain six times the experance for the same price(win,win)..it only looks like a lot of welding,compared to all the preperation it took to get there,the welding was a breeze...as you see I followed the curve of the panel...after trying dozens of differnt ways,I've found this way to be the easiest and best plus the fastest...heres why,no measuring I start with 2" tape to rough cut it out with an air chisel (three prong panel ripper) it takes less than five minutes to tear the old one off and get inside for a better look...after I finish cut with 1 1/2" tape and SHARP hand snips I straighten the edge with hammer & dolly then grind both sides , the undercoating must come off so the flanger can work right...the best way to grind the back side is with a 4" air grinder as slow as you can get it to go,get too disks back to back be very careful you'll have the rough abrasive facing you ...this way you can grind backwards.if you dont understand I'll post a pic of it...but anyway after stepping the edge or "flanging" that little strip becomes very strong for welding especialy with the top body line so close...putting the seam any closer will create problems getting the tools in...any lower will cause unnecessary problems also... like warpage...when I finish welding and grinding you cant tell the quarter was replaced ..and thats in bare metal...both these 1/4s took two coats of ez sand putty sanded with 80 grit not bondo or 36 grit...the body work goes so fast and is in epoxy so quick its well worth taking your time...I hate useing bondo ,sanding sucks and takes patience , for me its a waste of time...when you knock on this 1/4 with your knuckle you cant tell theres anything but metal there...with bondo, filling a warped panel, no matter how nice the bondo work is... a couple of knocks will give it away,no body believes this until I show them... sooo,just like paint work...prep is everything.welding without warpage is a step by step prosess also... you dont "JUST" weld it on theres a ton of tricks that took years to learn I'll share those too. all any one has to do is ask but first theres a lot of prep work to do on the new panel with the same amount hard learned tricks and time savers

Last edited by deadbodyman; 08-03-2009 at 04:19 PM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #15 (permalink)  
Old 08-03-2009, 04:30 PM
deadbodyman's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: Stripping paint Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: augusta,ga.
Age: 54
Posts: 6,106
Wiki Edits: 11

Thanks: 25
Thanked 448 Times in 377 Posts
badmerc

I'm assuming the body line alignment problem was an in and out issue not an up and down one so it looks like youve done everthing right and of good quality the notching for an in or out adjustment is a good way to go and in the jamb too.. good thinking ...you've built it in your head first then stopped when you ran into and obstical ...perfect. you should be giving me advice. DBM

Last edited by deadbodyman; 08-03-2009 at 04:39 PM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Body - Exterior posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Removing quarter glass. 428ho Interior 1 08-29-2006 07:41 AM
Fender and Quarter panels for 89 Firebird 89firebird113 Body - Exterior 0 07-30-2006 12:15 PM
Interior -- Common Questions Jon Interior 0 02-12-2004 04:38 PM
Suspension-Brakes-Steering Common Questions Jon Suspension - Brakes - Steering 0 10-16-2003 03:19 PM
Questions, questions, questions? slider in wa Transmission - Rearend 2 09-27-2003 02:01 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 04:57 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.