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Old 11-29-2012, 11:09 AM
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So what u r saying is with those stock parts a .530 lift cam is as big as I should go. Which thats about where I want to be anyway on my street engine

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Old 11-29-2012, 05:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChevroletSS View Post
So what u r saying is with those stock parts a .530 lift cam is as big as I should go. Which thats about where I want to be anyway on my street engine
That's supposedly the max lobe lift w/1.5 rockers, yes. I haven't needed to use that much lobe yet w/the stock set up, so I cannot comment further except to say I would check the amount of engagement between the lifter and d-bone on any cam even approaching that amount of lobe lift just to be sure.

The option of using 1.6 rockers is still there, too.
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Old 11-30-2012, 09:01 AM
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Ok can you explain rocker arms to me? What is 1.5, 1.6, 1.7 rockers and what are the differences. Are there others??? I am ging to post another thread on this to so others can comment
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Old 11-30-2012, 03:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChevroletSS View Post
Ok can you explain rocker arms to me? What is 1.5, 1.6, 1.7 rockers and what are the differences. Are there others??? I am ging to post another thread on this to so others can comment
From here:

The rocker arm is a fulcrum. Its job is to turn the cam lobe's circular rotation into an up and down movement. This is able to be done because the rocker has a pivot point or fulcrum that allows the cam lobe to open the valve.

The rocker arm's pivot point is not in the center of the rocker; instead it is offset more towards the pushrod. The amount of offset is expressed as a ratio (1.5, 1.6, 1.7, etc.)

The stock small-block Chevy rocker arm has a 1.5:1 ratio. These rockers are called 1.5 ratio rockers or just 1.5 rockers for short. This means that the rocker arm tip at the valve end of the rocker moves 1.5 times the amount of movement seen at the pushrod end of the rocker- which is also the same amount as the camshaft's lobe lift.

Let's say your camshaft has 0.350" lobe lift. With a 1.5 rocker, the cam's lobe lift becomes 0.525" lift at the valve (0.350 x 1.5 = 0.525).

The same 0.350" cam lobe using 1.6 rockers would give you 0.560" lift (0.350 x 1.6 = 0.560), w/o having to remove and replace the cam. With the Chevy factory hydraulic roller cam and lifter set up, this will give you more lift before running into problems w/the dogbone retainers losing contact w/the stock lifters.

Changing the rocker ratio will also change the off-the-seat duration seen at the valve a small amount. However, seat-to-seat duration will not change.

Last edited by cobalt327; 11-30-2012 at 03:40 PM. Reason: Add link.
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Old 12-02-2012, 04:00 AM
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Better late than never.

Yes the LS guides do work on the GenI Roller & Non-Roller blocks.
Using these with the Spider of course, eliminates hours of grinding/clearancing the Block and Dogbones on Non-Roller blocks which can lead to hitting a water jacket if you're not careful. It still requires some cosmetic cleanup grinding in that area tho'.
I did many Blocks the old way = Grinding untill I ran across the Composite GenIII Guides. They were pricey when they 1st came out, they're cheap now. Ahhh! Supply & Demand.

Crane Cams etc.. make OEM style Roller Lifters with extended travel for Cams with more than .354" Lobe Lift. They're expensive tho'. May as well go Retro.

If using an OEM style Roller Cam in a Non-Roller block you can use a moddified Cam Button for fore thrust/clearance and cut the mounting ears off the Cam Retainer Plate so it's used as a spacer for aft thrust/clearance or use the rear Cam Plug. I also machined Four 1/16" deep oil slots 90* apart on the side between the Cam & Retainer for lube.

The last Non-Roller Block I worked, I installed Studs/Nuts w/Loctite to mount the Cam Retainer Plate which negates the need for a Cam Button

There're also several methods for securing the Spider, Studs/Nuts, Springs from a Lifter Valley Baffle etc..

As most of the Retro Roller parts continue to get cheaper it's getting easier to just go with them.
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Old 12-02-2012, 09:59 AM
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Every retro part Ive seen is very expensive. Im trying to plan ahead on this build as I havent got my block back yet and go ahead with standard roller parts. Do you all think this is a good parts list to start with. My goal for HP and TQ is about 375 to 425.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Chevrolet-Perf...oductId=761656

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-12371042

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/scc-scp1000bl

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/clo-9-3157x1

http://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/7516/10002/-1

http://www.jegs.com/i/Holley/510/0-3310SA/10002/-1

http://www.jegs.com/i/Proform/778/66945RC/10002/-1

http://www.ebay.com/itm/VORTEC-VALVE...p2047675.l2557

http://www.jegs.com/i/Hedman/500/68166/10002/-1

http://www.jegs.com/i/Dynomax/289/89004/10002/-1

Last edited by ChevroletSS; 12-02-2012 at 10:22 AM.
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Old 12-03-2012, 03:15 AM
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The Lunati/Morel, Howards Retro Rollers are reasonably priced.
Howards, Street Retro-Fit Hyd. Roller Lifters, Chev SB-Competition Products
Howards Cams Chev SB Hydraulic Roller Kits
Lunati Chev SB Hydraulic Roller Kits

You could save a lot of $$ going with used OEM Roller Lifters, Spider, Dogbones & Cam.
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Old 12-03-2012, 07:36 AM
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Question About A 350 Roller Setup

If not using self aligning roller rockers you will need the Scorpion roller rockers, guide plates, and hardened pushrods. I also have heard it is better to use adjustable guide plates.
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Old 12-03-2012, 07:58 AM
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Thanks for the tip on Howards parts. They are priced ok. But I would be a little skeptical using used parts. Maybe the spider and dogbones but the lifters and cam Im gonna probably gonna go with new. I mean maybe I would but def not if I had to pull them out of a motor thats been sittin in a junk yard. Plus it feels great having all new parts, in my opinion
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Old 12-04-2012, 05:08 PM
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I just put a Howards retro Roller Cam & Rockers in a 1969 302 with NO problems during the install. It is not in the' 55.2 pickup yet
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Old 12-05-2012, 05:05 AM
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What kit did you buy???? Do you like it??
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Old 12-05-2012, 05:51 AM
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Well everything is factory machined on my block. (spider provisions drilled and tapped, machined for dogbones, and also for a mechanical fuel pump). The block number is 14093638 for future reference if anyone needs to know. So ill keep you all posted and ask more questions when I start on this build.

Again Thanks guys for everything.
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Old 12-05-2012, 06:15 AM
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Nothing wrong with reusing Roller Lifters & Cams, they're not like a Flat Tappet Cam & Lifter parts which shouldn't be swapped into other Engines. As long as they're in good shape, Rollers roll smoothly etc..
They're scattered all over Ebay/Craig's List etc.. cheap.
Your choice, if you've got the $$ & feel better with new parts go for it.
Howards brand are excellent parts.
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Old 12-05-2012, 07:03 AM
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Ok thanks ill keep my options open and check around
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Old 12-05-2012, 10:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChevroletSS View Post
Every retro part Ive seen is very expensive. Im trying to plan ahead on this build as I havent got my block back yet and go ahead with standard roller parts. Do you all think this is a good parts list to start with. My goal for HP and TQ is about 375 to 425.

Chevrolet Performance 10185071 Chevrolet Performance Hydraulic Roller Camshafts

Chevrolet Performance Hydraulic Roller Lifters 12371042 - SummitRacing.com

Scorpion Race Series Rocker Arms SCP1000BL - SummitRacing.com

Cloyes Original True Roller Timing Sets 9-3157X1 - SummitRacing.com

Edelbrock 7516 Edelbrock RPM Air-Gap Manifold

Holley 0-3310SA Holley 750 cfm 4-bbl Carburetor with Manual Choke

Proform 66945RC Proform HEI Distributor Tune-Up Kit

Vortec Valve Springs Kit 550 High Lift Hyd Flat Tappet | eBay

Hedman 68166 Hedman HTC Hi-Tech Coated Headers

Dynomax 89004 Dynomax Header and Manifold Dual Kits
The timing set must say it is for a factory roller cam, the gear configuration is different from retro-rollers and flat tappet cam blocks. The factory roller timing set has the gears reconfigured to fit the bolt-in thrust plate. Which also changes the chain, so you need the timing set of matched parts.

The OEM part for the roller cam comes in two versions one for pre 1996 (not L31 Vortec) roller cammed engines and another for the 1996 and up L31 Vortec with the plastic timing cover. All of these are usually a single row roller, there are double row roller sets, expect to have clearance problems with the timing cover from these, adding a gasket or two will usually solve this. It is best not to use a double row chain with the L31 Vortec as the timing cover often needs to be spaced forward for clearance as with the pre 96engine, but the 96 and up Vortec uses a crank position sensor in the cover which will acquire a dimensional miss-match that often affects the computer if you use the OEM fuel injection.

For examples I include these, not nearly all inclusive of what's availabe. If it doesn't say compatible with the factory roller block and cam; assume it isn't!

Summit Racing® True Roller Timing Sets SUM-G6601 - SummitRacing.com

Chevrolet Performance Timing Chain Sets 12371043 - SummitRacing.com


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