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question about ballast resistor and wire gauge

15K views 25 replies 5 participants last post by  docvette 
#1 · (Edited)
question about ballast resistor and wire gauge (UPDATED)

I spent most of the day tinkering with my '66 Galaxie. It has a 302 and C4 tranny from a '68 Fairlane, with stock points-type distributor, but a lot of "shadetree engineering" from previous owner. I was trying to make some of these 'repairs' better, like putting correct terminals on wires and so on. Here's what happened.

One wire, going into the alternator, halfway between the harness it was coming out of and the alternator it connected to (with a ring terminal), had been cut and then simply twisted together (!?!). I took off the twisted-on part and installed a new ring terminal since there was enough length.

There was another wire like that, inbetween the distributor and the ballast resistor, a proper female disconnect terminal, but in the middle merely twisted together. I took off the twisted part, installed a female disconnect terminal on the piece going into the distributor, and put the now shorter wire back on the ballast resistor.

Went to crank it, and it acted like it had a dead battery, very slooow turnover (cranked fine before). I checked all connections again, but still the same problem. I 'reinstalled' the "twisted wires" back on both the alternator and the ballast resistor, cranked up fine. Took off the twisted-on wire to the ballast resistor, again cranked like it had a dead battery.

So, I am sure that the culprit is that wire between the distributor and ballast resistor, but

1) can three inches of 16 gauge wire really make that difference? (it's a simple black wire marked 16 gauge, not the pink resistor wire that are on some Fords)
2) if length is an issue, do I need to get 16 gauge wire again, this time the length that the original and twisted part was, or
3) can I install 14 gauge wire( since I have some of that)? If I do, how long would that wire have to be?
4) finally, do I need a completely different wire gauge and length? like 10 gauge, 12 gauge? I'm pretty sure that 16 is way too small! Everything I remember about ignition calls for at least 14 gauge.

If I can install a larger gauge wire, can I use longer lengths? I'd like to, because the coil is on the engine, and I know that heat is bad for them, and I'd like to be able to mount the coil and ballast resistor on the fenderwell (don't ask where the ballast resistor is :rolleyes: ).

Sorry for the lengthy post, but I wanted to be thorough. Thank you ahead of time for responses.

Oh, and just to let you know, the installation of the seat covers went off without a hitch! :D
 
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#2 ·
Doc here, :pimp:

First, sounds like you may have a faulty solenoid or corroded loose contacts OR the "R" and "I" terminals may be swapped..the starter should not crank slow because of a ballast resistor..(unless there was a DEAD short on that wire..) The timing may well be over advanced too. if electrical solutions don't cure it..

IF the stock ballast wire is MISSING, go get a coil mounted ballast resistor from the auto parts store and install it..Resistance wires ARE not just a length of wire..they contain certain resistance values..and should NOT be substituted.

Yes you can run new coil wire..10 gauge (recommended) will help the coil/ignition to perform well, and save you the upgrade if you install a performance coil in the future..IF stock, 12 gauge will work fine, 14 gauge is not recommended for a good performing ignition.

NOTHING should be connected to the coil + wire..The coil + wire is a dedicated wire off the ignition switch..If the alternator is connected to this wire you invite all kinds of problems, the least of which is run on after you shut the key off..Find the Ignition wire and connect the coil there. The alternator wire should go to the Battery terminal on the solenoid..this isolates the output and coil with the switch..(at least that is the way GM does it..( Be advised..I'm NOT a Ford guy..)

Doc :pimp:
 
#3 ·
Thanks, Doc. I was hoping you'd answer.

The timing was fine before, and I didn't adjust anything. Same with the starter-- ran fine before. In fact, it runs fine now, but only because I put that little length of wire back on the wire from the ballast resistor to the points in the distributor.

It's a regular, 16 gauge wire, and not a specific resistor wire. The small gauge is what I am thinking is the culprit here. You mention 10 gauge, so I will get some 10 gauge and report back here.

Nothing is connected to the positive terminal on the coil. I installed an aftermarket tach, (on the neg. terminal, as per instructions) but that was last week, and it ran fine, and the only thing different is that now it is inside instead of under the hood (I was tuning my carb). I unplugged it and another set of aftermarket gauges when the car wouldn't start, and afterwards, it still wouldn't start, so I think that the culprit is that wire between the resistor and the dist.

I'll avoid some "honey-do's" as long as I can and tackle this problem today.
 
#4 ·
update!

Got under the hood this morning to work on it, and I really think I may have another problem. I tried to start the car with 14 gauge wire, no go, and then again with the same, original "twisted together" wire, but this time, wouldn't start. I then pulled the charged battery out of my truck, car would turn over but no spark, plenty of fuel, all connections secure.

I am thinking that I might have burned up points. They look a little discolored, and I did install a tach, so maybe I shorted a wire, or left the key too long in the ignition position.

I perhaps have two problems going on here, or a single problem that coincided with me replacing that wire, but honestly, when I placed the original wire back on and it worked, that was the first thing I figured, that the wire was causing the problem!

I can't for the life of me figure out why they car wouldn't start, but then start once I put that twisted up wire back in there, and now, dead, even with a charged battery.

I am thinking new resistor, points and condenser once I double-check all wires. Any other suggestions guys? Sorry this one is so confusing, or getting too long to read, but I feel like I need advice on this one.
 
#6 ·
Doc here, :pimp:

Do you have SPARK???

Check the coil. With all wires removed, get your DVOM out, set to R X 1, Calibrated to "000", measure the primary, it should read LESS than an ohm, but MORE than "000"..if not toss it, it's bad.

NEXT, Test the secondary, Set your scale to R X 20K or higher. It should read between 10,000 and 11,000 Ohms, if not, toss it, it's bad..



If it has been running any length of time without a proper ballast, it has probably burned out.

Be sure the "I" and "S" terminals are properly connected to the right terminals, without the "I" terminal, it has little or no spark while cranking.



Are the points opening and closing? not stuck open or shorted closed? Gap should be around 17 thousands.

Turn the key on, with an insulated screwdriver open and close them, it should have a nice BLUE spark..If not replace the wire between the points and the coil -. Disconnect the TACH while testing, If it is bad, it can kill spark.

Doc :pimp:
 
#7 ·
Doc, the reason I mentioned discolored points, is that I've had cars that didn't have a resistor ( or had an unresisted coil on a car that supposed to have one), and those cars either would not start or had intermittant spark at the points. Some would run, but break up real bad off idle or slight load. Even if you filed them or whatever, the overheat did something to the contacts.
 
#8 ·
Doc, thanks a bunch for the illustrations and the guidance there. I will definitely be getting to it tomorrow. Got too frustrated, showered up and went out for burritos and beer.

I have a cheap Cen-Tech digital multimeter, so I hope to be able to check the coil as you describe. I didn't go far enough today to check for spark between the points and everthing, but will tomorrow definitely. Also, I ordered a ballast resistor from the parts store, I have spare points and condenser, and will get the battery charged or use the one from my truck.

As for the "S" and "I" terminals, the ring terminals on those were also quite frayed, so I changed them out. Car started fine after changing each one (it was the solenoid, so I was worried about messing with them), in fact a couple of times. But, after reading this post, I went out and the "I" terminal was a little loose-- the nut could be tightened by finger.

F&J, the points are a little worn, but not as bad as I first thought they were. Metal arm not discolored, but neither points nor the arm look "new."

Thanks a lot guys, Doc especially. BTW, what year 'Vettes are you doctoring? My dad is rebuilding his '67 finally. He's the original owner. I'm going to be the second :thumbup:
 
#9 ·
F&J said:
Doc, the reason I mentioned discolored points, is that I've had cars that didn't have a resistor ( or had an unresisted coil on a car that supposed to have one), and those cars either would not start or had intermittant spark at the points. Some would run, but break up real bad off idle or slight load. Even if you filed them or whatever, the overheat did something to the contacts.

Doc here, :pimp:

F&J,

Yeah, that is the FIRST sign of running without a Ballast resistor, the points burn right out..you may replace 2 or 3 Sets in a month..But the real damage is done to the coil..

The voltage across the primary under load (points closed) Should be between 6 to 9 volts..and rise to 13.95 or 14.4 unloaded..(points open) the windings aren't made to take the abuse for very long without a ballast resistor.



redneckprofessor:

Check that spark in the am..and the coil too..It may be bad OR right on the edge..ALSO be sure you have 12 volts (or there abouts) on the Coil + while cranking..If it is below 9 volts you have Cold start problems.

And..ANY year Vette..although I HATE the new ones..electronic NIGHTMARES..Even GM is still working out the bugs..Very quietly. 69 and down are My favorites..and are Great head turners..Bare bones "olde School" , muscle..after that Fuel prices and insurance took all the "Fun" outta it... :mad:

Enjoy the Burritos and adult beverages! :thumbup:

Doc :pimp:
 
#10 ·
My stock Galaxy uses a resistor wire from the ignition terminal on the ignition switch to the firewall connector, inside the cab, out the firewall, then a stranded wire to the coil + post. This gives the system the resisted voltage to run the engine with the key in the regular run position.

There is also an I wire from the solenoid to the coil + terminal, a starting bypass. It supplies a full battery voltage past the resistor for starting only. This wire meets the ignition wire at the curve of the loom where they both meet at the firewall, and appears to be one wire from there to the coil + post.

That I wire is also in position with a porcelain ballast resistor, and would be connected on the coil side of the wire from the resistor to the + post on the coil. This way, the bypass voltage gets past the resistor for full voltage start for the ignition system. Once that I wire is stopped at the solenoid when the key is returned to run, the resisted voltage is then supplied to the coil + post.

If that I wire isn't in place on either the I post or coil + post, the engine will not start when it is cranked over with the key.

I'd suggest taking a voltage reading at the coil + post when the engine is cranked over with the key. If there isn't voltage, you might try a jumper wire from the I post on the solenoid to the + post on the coil.

My solenoid has I and S on it, no R. I understand them to be S, start for starter motor to engage the starter motor through the solenoid, I, to be the bypass for coil full battery volts for/on start.

You should see full volts at the coil + post when the starter is engaged, resisted volts when the engine is running.

I hope this helps.

Regards,

Milton
 
#11 ·
Yeah, Milton, that gives me another thing to check out, definitely. Thanks for the info and explanation.

What year is your Galaxie? Just wondering because there may be some changes I can account for if my system is different. Also, the previous owner put in a 302 engine from a '68 Fairlane, so that accounts for even more differences. Add to that the fact that the previous owner also fixed whatever needed to be fixed just enough so it could run, and there you see the mess I just might have.

Also, how many and what kind of wires do you have connected to your coil (+) post? Is that one ignition from the key switch, and then one jumper coming from the solenoid I terminal?

Thanks again for the details of your Gal!
 
#12 ·
Mine is a 1966 427 transplant.

If we were to look backwards from the coil + post, the regular stranded wire would go back to the firewall area, and split into two wires.

One would go to the firewall connector, and into the cab, through the resistor wire (which is a silver stranded wire), to the ignition switch, IGNITION post on the switch.

The other side of the wire from the junction is a regular stranded wire, to the I post on the solenoid.

The differences for start and run from engine to engine aren't different, it is only when Ford moved the I wire from the solenoid to the IGN 2 post on the ignition switch, under the dashboard, and I think that was late 1967 or so. To be more confusing, Ford used early I post solenoids with the later systems for a time, without a wire connected to it, as that wire had been moved to the rear of the later ignition switch.

Hope this isn't too confusing.

Regards,

Milton
 
#14 ·
redneckprofessor said:
One wire, going into the alternator, halfway between the harness it was coming out of and the alternator it connected to (with a ring terminal), had been cut and then simply twisted together (!?!). I took off the twisted-on part and installed a new ring terminal since there was enough length.


Went to crank it, and it acted like it had a dead battery, very slooow turnover (cranked fine before).
This wire is the problem. Make sure you are getting BAT VOLT through it at START.
 
#15 ·
Alright, Doc, help me explain this one.

Put my charged battery from my truck in. Checked the wires at the solenoid terminals. One was loose, both were tightened. Check the twisted together wires at both the alternator and the solenoid, both were twisted together well. Start the car. It immediately comes to life, running like a top.

Stop the car, remove the wire between the resistor and the distributor, replace it with a 12 gauge wire. Go to start it. Won't even turn over. Clicks a couple of times, but will not engage the starter.

I replace the twisted together wire, this time I crimp it into one piece with a connecter. I go to start it. It turns over and purrs like a kitten.

I also go ahead and take off the twisted on end of the alternator wire, put on a ring terminal, tighten it onto the back of the alternator, go to start it, turns over and purrs like a kitten again.

I'm telling you, that wire is magic, or the car is possessed. I switched out batteries, putting the dead one back in the Galaxie, jump it off my truck, and now the battery is fully charged and will start with no hesitation.

Do you have ANY ideas why that wire between the distributor and resistor would affect the system that much, and in that way? Bad coil? Bad resistor? I'm stumped, but I'm also glad the car's running again. I did check the wire to the alternator, but could it have been good, then vibrated bad, and then when I put the correct ring terminal on it, it is now fixed?

BTW, thanks so much for all the help and concern, and the diagrams and pics. You have no idea how much I appreciate it!

Also, Doc, I checked the coil with my digital meter, but I'm not sure that I am doing it right. When I checked the primary, I set the meter on the lowest Ohm setting, which says "200." Again, this is that cheaper Cen-Tech one. Primary numbers were 1.6 to 1.7, and when I tested the secondary, it was set on "20k" on my meter. The numbers were 9.63, but am I doing this right? If those numbers show that the coil is bad, could that and a bad resistor make the wire control the system that much? I'm getting a new resistor, should I also replace the coil?
 
#16 ·
Also, the wire that Kultulz pointed out as the culprit, the yellow one going into the back of the alternator... well, the terminal it goes onto is quite loose. I went to tighten the nut down on that terminal (just a threaded post coming out of the back), but the whole thing, nut wire and terminal, all turned as I tried to tighten it.

Loose connection there might be the culprit?
 
#17 ·
Doc here, :pimp:

First of all, I'll try and answer your questions as posted..If I read and understand your post, Then your car IS not properly wired, AS PER the factory schematic, AND If in fact as advertised, it may Be headed for trouble..

Print out, AND refer to the diagram on these items.

Check the twisted together wires at both the alternator and the solenoid, both were twisted together well. Start the car. It immediately comes to life, running like a top.
This wire is the MAIN Buss support wire for power to the electrical system from the car..IT should be a yellow wire from the Alternator output wire to the Black/Yellow Wire that goes to the Ignition Switch (And also should feed the whole fuse buss) BOTH those wires should go to the BATTERY CABLE side of the Solenoid..

IF that wire (the Yellow) Was cut and twisted together..It MAY have been dropping out because of poor bonding..Causing the solenoid to energize and drop out when it loaded the line..(click, click..) THIS wire should NEVER be spliced, It supports all the electrical in the car...remove it, and replace it with a NEW uncut 10 gauge wire.

Stop the car, ***--->remove the wire between the resistor and the distributor, <---*** replace it with a 12 gauge wire. Go to start it. Won't even turn over. Clicks a couple of times, but will not engage the starter.
This IF I read your post correctly, Is Totally in error..AND if true, your headed for a fire or melted Ballast..

The Ballast wire SHOULD NEVER go between the Ballast and the distributer..!! The non Coil side of the Ballast wire is 12 volts... The Coil side of the ballast will be 6 to 9 volts under load (points closed) If you follow the circuit on the diagram, The Ballast resistor (Pink wire) goes between the IGNITION switch, and the COIL +, not the Distributer..and the RED / GREEN wire at the coil + Should go to the BROWN wire to the solenoid "I" as the secondary IGNITION (hot in crank Only).

IF your Ballast wire is wired DIRECTLY to the distributer, you have 12 volts DEAD SHORTED to ground every time the points closed..either this wire OR the ballast resistor SHOULD have gone up in smoke and fire when the points closed (Completes the circuit to ground) ..In Either case, It should NEVER have run..THIS If true, May have burned up the contacts on the Ignition switch and It may be intermittent now also.

Either you didn't follow the wire Correctly..OR you have a major problem that needs investigation and correction right away..the wire may be melted open and intermittently shorting causing the solenoid to drop out when it shorts..(full battery power to ground when shorted and points closed).

The "S" wire is the RED / BLUE wire that goes to the NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH..then RED / BLUE from there to the "Hot In Start Only" position of the Ignition switch. AND nowhere else..THIS wire is the ONLY wire that will effect the energizing of the solenoid. (Except if the battery cable were loose).


Stop the car, remove the wire between the **--->resistor and the distributor, <---*** replace it with a 12 gauge wire. Go to start it. Won't even turn over. Clicks a couple of times, but will not engage the starter.
Again, DEAD SHORT to ground with the points closed..may not have enough power to support the "S" wire to engage the solenoid ...dunno..maybe the ignition contacts are melted to the point that they won't pass much current..


ON THE COIL READINGS...

Were ALL the wires removed from the coil when testing? you may have parasitic resistance indicated on your values..

Was the meter CALIBRATED to DEAD "000" , BEFORE you made your tests in R X 1 Scale on OHMS?

ARE the Battery's in your meter NEW and FRESH ?

All of these will give you "Error Factors" in your readings..

1.6 on a primary winding, on a non internal ballast , IS close but, Indicates some winding damage..This reading should be under an OHM , but More than "000"..While it may continue to run fine, it will not perform as well and may prematurely fail..


9.67 on the secondary winding IS also close, (10k to 11k) but also indicates some winding damage..

I'd replace it..even though it may continue to operate for some time..It may also fail in a parking lot 100 miles from home. Roll the dice...

From what you post , If I understood what you have said, you have some serious electrical/harness problems that require some attention (especially if a hack was in there before cutting wires and splicing wires with poorly attached splices or twisted wires) .

That's my nickel's worth..

Doc :pimp:
 
#18 ·
redneckprofessor said:
Also, the wire that Kultulz pointed out as the culprit, the yellow one going into the back of the alternator... well, the terminal it goes onto is quite loose. I went to tighten the nut down on that terminal (just a threaded post coming out of the back), but the whole thing, nut wire and terminal, all turned as I tried to tighten it.

Loose connection there might be the culprit?

Doc here, :pimp:

IF you talking about the ALTERNATOR..

The output connection internal the alternator has now sheared off..from the internal soldered lug..(maybe if lucky, might be spinning around a soldered terminal) IF true, it won't charge now..Or if it does, it may undercharge and cause a lot of HEAT doing so..

Rebuilding the alternator at this point is indicated.

This Would not effect the Solenoid energize at all (according to the stock diagram) but will contribute to low charge state of the battery (same result..).

Doc :pimp:
 
#19 ·
Doc,

I think there may be some clarification to make on my side.

The wires going to the "S" and "I" posts are fixed (they were worn at the ring terminals, very frayed-- gave them new terminals), and are tight now.

Yellow wire, correctly located and connected, was twisted together, now has a new ring terminal, no twisted parts anymore. BUT, the post that it was attached to seems to be loose. When I tried to tighten it down, the bolt/terminal moved with the nut. Couldn't get it too tight. This may be the culprit in the low battery charge/no-start!

My ignition wire goes straight to the (+) terminal on the coil. Resistor wire does not go between ballast and distributor. Only one wire on (+) terminal, and that is the ignition wire.

On (-) terminal, wire from ballast resistor connected, as well as a tach wire (now no longer). Ballast resistor inbetween (-) terminal of coil and the points on the distributor.

Coil readings-- coil was completely removed from car, no wires connected to it at all. I went to the parts store to get a new resistor and new coil (Accel 8140), and the hardware store for wire. I'm going to change out those three things out, resistor, coil and wire, and report back. Also, I tested the new coil with my meter, and got numbers closer to what you said I should expect. Seems that the coil needed to be replaced.

My thinking is that 1) I messed with two wires at the same time. I must have pulled the alternator wire loose, or loosened the terminal, causing it not to charge, and 2) the second wire, connected to the ballast resistor, was somehow affecting the rest of the system, since a larger wire won't let it run, and the coil somehow seems to be damaged as it would with a bad ballast resistor. Playing with those two at the same time made me think that one thing was the culprit, but that was wrong.

Thanks again, Doc. You're a heckuva guy to give me all this help. Appreciate it, and I appreciate the input from Milton,F&J and Kultulz, too!
 
#20 ·
Doc here, :pimp:

IF the Ballast resistor is on the - terminal...It is totally WRONG..It's a wonder it runs..

The ballast resistor goes BETWEEN the wire from the ignition switch power AND the + side of the coil..The secondary ignition wire goes directly to the + terminal of the coil..

Doc :pimp:
 
#21 ·
Doc,

Man, you really are a Doc, eh?

Sure enough, the ballast resistor is installed inbetween the negative terminal of the coil and the points on the distributor.

I checked the ignition wires, and they've been, let's say, customized. Crimped about an inch out of the switch into differently colored wires, which I believe means that I do not have a resistor wire on the car. Obviously, the wiring was "redone" on the car. That may be why the previous owner placed a ballast resistor in there, attached to the engine (I know, I know, heat is going to kill it off), to replace the resistance that was apparently taken out.

So, should I install that resistor inbetween the ignition wire coming out of the switch and the (+) terminal? Or, simply take it out and just run it without the ballast resistor? I know that burns up points, but, hey, I don't run the car that much right now.

Thanks a bunch! Didn't even think about where the resistor was placed!!
 
#22 ·
Doc here, :pimp:

By all means, Install the ballast resistor...otherwise you will be installing points about 3 a month and coils shortly thereafter..

Locate the wire that goes to the + side of the coil, remove it, VERIFY that it goes on and off with the key..this is the wire you want to go to ONE side of the ballast resistor..The other side of the ballast resistor will go to the + side of the coil.

NEXT, go to the solenoid, locate the wire that is on the "I" terminal, Clip the end off it and insulate the end and tie it back. Mark it "Old "I" wire. Run a BRAND new 14 gauge wire from the "I" terminal DIRECTLY to the Coil + (PAST THE BALLAST). This way there can be NO errors.

NEXT, find the wire that is on the - side of the coil..that wire should run directly to the points terminal inside the dizzy..IF this wire has been cut or is fray..REPLACE it..with the same gauge wire. This way there can be no errors.

Finally, Connect your Tach wire to your Coil - terminal.

Use star and lock washers on all the terminals, DON'T crimp wires together, REPLACE them..(AND only one at a time , then move on after confirming the first is correct..)

BURNISH both "Foot Pads" on the coil mount and the mount to coil down to bare metal, then burnish the mounting area (engine or fender well) down to bare metal AND use STAR and lock washers for proper bonding.

Now is a good time to relocate the coil if you wish to do so..Engine heat as well as heat from current swamp will kill a coil.

You will find, not only will the car start much easier when cold, it will run better and get much better fuel economy then I'm guessing you've been getting..you COULD follow it up with cap, rotor, plugs and wires..for even better performance and mileage.

Again, I would INSPECT the harness for further "HACK" jobs..you may be courting a major fire you CAN NOT put out..

Your car didn't come with factory fuse links..

If a wire shorts in a bundle, it will melt the bundle , creating more shorts, starting fires around it and the surrounding area..(interior parts, Fuel, oil and hydraulic lines)

This fire can not be put out until the Ignition source is removed (The battery either explodes, Or the 4 gauge cable melts through) , By this time, your rod is a burned out hulk...you can knock it down with a fire extinguisher, but the second you run out..it will burst right back into flames.

I'd install a FUSE link OR Maxi Fuse on the main buss support wire at the solenoid (the 10 gauge wire going into the firewall), First, and do the inspection..If you feel it's above your tool/skill level, seek help from a local auto electric shop..and we are all here to help too.

Doc :pimp:
 
#23 ·
Thanks, Doc. Can't tell you how much I appreciate the guidance, patience, and instruction. I'm an actual professor, so I know how valuable those three things are to people trying to learn and improve.

I am going "hack-hunting" after I test, possibly replace, the alternator. There actually isn't that much to fix after looking through the dash, though the previous owner seemed to put too much faith in electrical tape, (am I the only one who does shrink tubing and wire looms out here?).

He also cut off way too much insulation on the wires when installing disconnect and ring terminals. A lot of the wires are bare just past the terminals, and many are severely bent, enough so you can see broken strands. I will be replacing those wires soon enough, trust me. I'll have to do it anyways for what I plan to do with the car.

Tell you what, I'll do before and after shots, and I'll see what you think. I'll also send a photo of my dad's Vette that he's restoring.

Thanks again, Doc! :D
 
#24 ·
I guess that this should just say 'update' since I am updating this post, but I do have a question or two.

Well, I went ahead and got new coil (since previous one tested a little badly), new ballast resistor, and a new alternator. Rewired the ignition system so that it goes 'ignition wire-ballast resistor-coil-distributor' now, and I moved both the coil and the ballast resistor to the firewall and off of the intake manifold. Car starts quite well.

However, I did drain the battery out with the last alternator since it wasn't charging. I changed out the alternator, car started, but today, when I was trying to fix some of the wiring in the dash, I of course left the door open maybe too long and when I went to start the car, the battery turned over a couple of times and then all I heard was clicking. Dead battery again. Jumped the battery, got it started, ran it for a some time while I checked to make sure that I didn't have anything shorted or otherwise draining the battery. After shutting off the car, I checked the system by pulling the hot wire off of the positive post and with my test light clipped to the negative terminal, I touched the hot wire to see if there was a drain. Light didn't come on, no drain. Afterwards, got the car to start a few times after that with no problems.

But, the alternator was really, really hot, hotter than the old one was (I remember touching it when I changed the wire terminals out). I searched the forum for "hot alternator" and sure enough, Doc, you had mentioned that an alternator may be doing too much by using it to resurrect a dead battery.

Question: does that explain why my alternator was hot? I upgraded to the 65-amp since it was the same price, and since I am adding some aftermarket gauges. Are there other things I should check? Should I trickle-charge that battery? My meter shows full voltage coming out of it now. I just want to make sure that other electrical issues aren't the culprit here and burn out a brand new alternator.

I also have another question. Should I run a wire from my "I" post on the solenoid to the positive post on my coil for better starts? I remember someone saying that, but I can't find it, and I want to be sure before I do that.

Thanks again, guys, especially you, Doc. Galaxie is running strong!
 
#25 ·
Actually, now that I am looking at the diagram you have posted, Doc, there's supposed to be a brown wire connecting to the red/grn ignition wire goint to the (+) terminal of the coil. If I have that wire in that place, I should not need to add a wire like I was asking about above, right? If I don't have one, then I should add one from the "I" terminal to the (+) terminal on the coil?
 
#26 ·
redneckprofessor said:
Actually, now that I am looking at the diagram you have posted, Doc, there's supposed to be a brown wire connecting to the red/grn ignition wire goint to the (+) terminal of the coil. If I have that wire in that place, I should not need to add a wire like I was asking about above, right? If I don't have one, then I should add one from the "I" terminal to the (+) terminal on the coil?

Doc here, :pimp:

I would add it anyway. The reason, Because you really can't verify it's condition (unless you undo the harness and follow it) . This way, you know it's good and goes from point to point without cuts or butt splices.

Just abandon the old one, insulate , Mark and tie it back.

It's really the easiest thing to do to be sure it's right.

Doc :pimp:
 
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