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Old 07-11-2002, 10:54 AM
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Post Question about crank quality, newbie of sorts.

Hi!, As you can see this is my first post, but more importantly i am seeking some advice in an engine build up. My first to be honest (with the help of dear ole dad, veteran rodder of sorts)

Anyway, i did a search and only came back with one topic on cranks and their respective quality. What i am really looking for is opions personal experience with the different brands. Lunati is unfortuantly out of my price range. I was looking at some of the semi-lower cost solutions. Scat, Cat, Eagle, Cola... Help a newbie out .

Cubic Inch is still open for debate on the build up: 350, 355 or 383. Its a late model one piece rear main seal, 4 bolt main 350 chevy block.

As a side note, this may be a bit of a stretch for me, but my dad and i are looking to get around 500 hp out of our built up, N/A and then possibly adding a power adder. Thanks!!

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Old 07-11-2002, 01:39 PM
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You can use a factory cast crank for the horsepower level you are seeking, as long as you don't run it into detonation for long. One thing to consider when looking for a remanufacturer is ask if they index the journals, if they don't go somewhere else. This one overlooked fact causes more little problems than you can imagine particularily on forged cranks which tend to distort more over time due the forging process. If you see how a crank throw being out 2 degrees one way and the other journal being out 2 degrees the other adds up it will be obvious how this can mess up a fine tune. I have ground cranks that were 5 degrees out from journal to journal, not unusual but not typical either. You don't want to be stuck with that one crank out of 20 that is really bad.

The manufacturers you mentioned are all good I would think but I have not had a chance to see their work, although Scat does make a good crank for the SBC from what I have seen. I wouldn't waste a lot of money on a forgings unless you were going circle track racing with it, a good reground cast crank indexed and with no taper on the journals will do just fine, if you want to spend some money have the journals micropolished and nitrided. That will give you the most bang for the buck.

Have fun!
“She may not look like much, but she's got it where it counts, kid. I've made a lot of special modifications myself.”

— Han Solo
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Old 07-12-2002, 05:01 AM
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Thanks!! Anyone else feel like unloading on a newbie Im all ears (well eyes, i suppose). Thanks again!
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Old 07-13-2002, 01:30 PM
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unless your engine sees only track duty a stock crank is more than enough. if you are openminded on the displacement i would contact PAW and buy a 400 block and a steel 327 crank, it can be installed using the same bareings as when building a 383 in a 400 block. the trick with that engine is that you can use LOOONG rods in it, ford 300-I6 rods are 6.209 inches. Hot rod magazine did a build-up for 2995, and because of the long rods and subsequent long dwell, the engine ran 11:1 comp and made over 400 hp on 87 octane with a stock style LT-1 cam. with a hotter cam and better heads you should be hitting 500 hp easy..

only thing is that at that HP level i would have the crank nitrided at that power level.
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