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Old 03-25-2006, 09:39 PM
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Question about floor brace repair???

Hey guys and gals, I bought my new floors, inner rockers and the front floor braces for my 62 impala and I was wondering before I weld them what I could use on the inside of the floor braces to prevent rust, I was thinking of using undercoating or por-15 and would it be better to plug the 3 holes they have in them to prevent water from just sitting in there leaving me to have to fix it all over again in a couple of years? Thanks for taking the time to look.


Kevin

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Old 03-25-2006, 10:05 PM
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Por15 is a really great product, but it may cause problems when the time comes to weld them in. I think Eastwood makes a weld thru primer/sealer for stuff like that.
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Old 03-26-2006, 09:54 AM
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re: Question about floor brace repair???

Thanks, I have a couple of cans of weld through in the garage so I will try that out, I still want to coat the inside of the brace with something before I weld them on though, maybe i'll experiment with the por-15 kit I bought. Would it be wise to run a bead of weld along the entire outer ridge of the brace or just spot weld them in like the originals?

Thanks, Kevin
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Old 03-26-2006, 10:42 AM
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rust prevention

workingclass

Go to ************** there is a forum page to ask your question.Our shop uses Picklex20 and Zerorust in areas like that.I,m not the expert so ask the guys at this site.Plus its and online autobody supply store.
Mike

Last edited by Centerline; 03-26-2006 at 01:34 PM.
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Old 03-26-2006, 11:31 AM
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Forget all the "Magic potions". Epoxy prime (and paint if you want) all the areas that will be "trapped" when assembled. Be sure you sand them and treat them as if they were not hidden inside never to be seen again. If you don't prepare this area properly the paint will peel off inside there and you will have no protection. Honestly, a good sanding and a good epoxy primer is your best bet. Inside the rockers,the braces etc. can be painted just like normal if you choose, but just the epoxy primer will do the trick. On the actual areas that will be welded, clean to bare metal where every you want a plug weld. Do this on both parts, FRONT AND BACK. You want bare metal on both sides of any metal you are welding. On the areas that will be "trapped" when the two parts are put together, apply "Weld thru" primer to the spots stripped of paint where you plan your plug welds. Do this AFTER you have drilled holes for the plug welds and AFTER you have trial fit it and it fits well. Weld thru primer has very poor adhesion qualitys and will scratch off very easy while fitting the part.

After your parts are clamped in place and welded AND primed and painted, apply a "cavity wax" using a wand into the hidden areas like inside the rockers and those braces. 3m makes one called "Rust fighter" #08891 in a quart (takes an applicator gun) or 08892 for an aerosol. The cavity wax will ooz out of all the seams and protect between the metal pieces. This cavity wax WILL be covering the entire inside of these pieces if applied properly.

Welding up the parts completely is almost always a death sentence for the part,that is why the factory didn't do it. It may be "sealed" but if ANY moisture gets in there from a missed hole, it then CAN'T GET OUT! It WILL rust it out at that point.

You WANT those drain holes as long as they are not at a point where mud and gunk being tossed off the wheels will go directly in.

What I have told you is not my "opinion" it is the guide lines laid out by every auto manufacturer that I know (with slight variations from manufacturer to manufacturer) of in their "recommended repair procedures" that they provide to maintain thier corrosion protection warrantees when the car is repaired in a body shop.

I have a 2006 Toyota Prius on the rack right now getting both rear frame rails and floor,it will get this same procedure as per the training I received from Toyota.

Brian
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