Question about frame off reso. - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Hotrodding Basics
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 10-17-2009, 04:12 AM
briskedm's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: VA
Posts: 29
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Question about frame off reso.

So on my 67 cutlass that I am doing (and the first full resoration I've done) the floor boards and one of the cross supports are junk, calling them swiss cheese is a nice way of saying it. I plan on pulling the body to blast and paint/powder coat the frame, re-run all the lines, upgrade suspension and breaks and possibly make some room for 15x12 tires... the question I have is should I/ do I need the floor in solid shape to pull the body or will some 1x1 sq. stock temp bracing be sufficent to keep the car from folding in half? the rockers are questionable, the doors themselves are good (although the bottom half of each skin is gone) all glass is in and solid, the roof is in amazing shape (guess the MI road salt didn't make it up there). Insight from the experenced crowd is greatly appreciated in my slow going process... Thanks in advance, Doug

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 10-17-2009, 07:08 AM
Irelands child's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: Ford engine specifications Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Upstate New York
Posts: 4,909
Wiki Edits: 8

Thanks: 14
Thanked 204 Times in 185 Posts
If it's a hard top or, especially, a convertible I would probably install some cross bracing - 1" might be a bit heavy and a pain to work around with 3/4" being a enough smaller, a fair amount cheaper and much easier to work with. If it's a coupe, a couple of braces across the bottom would keep the sides parallel if you take the entire floor pan out all at the same time. It's too late if you don't spend some time and some bucks now, rather then lots of time realigning the body later IF the car panels move too much.

Dave W
__________________
Irelands child
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 10-17-2009, 07:09 AM
daoldbuick's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: kincardine ontario
Posts: 226
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
You should be ok without bracing. The firewall and diff tunnel will stop it from folding.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 10-17-2009, 02:57 PM
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: Wheelbase database Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Virginia
Posts: 3,534
Wiki Edits: 1

Thanks: 6
Thanked 148 Times in 135 Posts
I would suggest tack welding in cross bracing, mainly to keep the shell square when you cut the floor out. If the floor is really that bad, there is now a full floor pan (including the section under the rear seat) available as a repro for the 64-67 cars. It's not cheap, but it makes the job much easier since you simply weld it on at the factory spot welds.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 10-17-2009, 08:47 PM
techinspector1's Avatar
Senior Curmudgeon
 
Last wiki edit: DynoSim combinations Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Hemet, California, USA
Age: 72
Posts: 12,872
Wiki Edits: 326

Thanks: 750
Thanked 975 Times in 823 Posts
How tough can it be to find a solid '67 Cutlass to start with? Geez Louise!!! Part out that turd and start over.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 10-17-2009, 09:44 PM
briskedm's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: VA
Posts: 29
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by techinspector1
How tough can it be to find a solid '67 Cutlass to start with? Geez Louise!!! Part out that turd and start over.
yeah...about that, wife's grandfathers the original owner, were the second... theres a little bit of family sentimental value to it... been down that road, not a good on to travel We now live in VA, it's not hard at all to find a solid one, but she wouldn't have it

Last edited by briskedm; 10-17-2009 at 09:54 PM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 10-17-2009, 09:52 PM
briskedm's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: VA
Posts: 29
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by joe_padavano
I would suggest tack welding in cross bracing, mainly to keep the shell square when you cut the floor out. If the floor is really that bad, there is now a full floor pan (including the section under the rear seat) available as a repro for the 64-67 cars. It's not cheap, but it makes the job much easier since you simply weld it on at the factory spot welds.
yeah, I came across them for the tune of 8xx but, just like you said, much less work to put in one piece vice having 6 to fit, trim, refit, square up then weld in... Thanks for the suggestions guys, Ill fire up the welder here shortly (by shortly i mean atleast a month, life on a destroyer sucks) and get it ready to go into storage to work on the frame
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 10-18-2009, 10:56 AM
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: Wheelbase database Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Virginia
Posts: 3,534
Wiki Edits: 1

Thanks: 6
Thanked 148 Times in 135 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by briskedm
yeah, I came across them for the tune of 8xx...
They were about $550 at Carlisle. Shop around. All of these repro sheet metal panels are stamped in the same one or two Chinese factories.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 10-18-2009, 01:33 PM
Cape Cod Bob's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: How to title a hot rod Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: MA
Posts: 1,125
Wiki Edits: 1

Thanks: 0
Thanked 26 Times in 18 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by briskedm
yeah...about that, wife's grandfathers the original owner, were the second... theres a little bit of family sentimental value to it... been down that road, not a good on to travel We now live in VA, it's not hard at all to find a solid one, but she wouldn't have it
OK, so you need a doner car in better shape . Take them both apart ,mix up the parts etc.,start putting the better one back together and "Gee honey, I can't believe how well Grampa's car is coming along"
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 10-18-2009, 04:57 PM
Guy Hiltz's Avatar
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Nova Scotia Canada
Posts: 1,004
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by techinspector1
How tough can it be to find a solid '67 Cutlass to start with? Geez Louise!!! Part out that turd and start over.
Tech,I got to say that your statement above is a bit offensive,as well as narrow minded.Not everyone lives in a rust free enviroment as I'm guessing you do.Theres lots of places in North America where cars from 1967 are long gone,either from rust,or being crushed.
Guy
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Hotrodding Basics posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
A RatRod type frame question SixEightFury General Rodding Tech 2 08-12-2009 06:17 AM
Another S10 Frame Swap Question joedcu2 Suspension - Brakes - Steering 3 07-28-2009 02:18 AM
41 Plymouth Frame question... Tyroma Suspension - Brakes - Steering 12 12-21-2008 08:14 PM
Thru Frame Fitting Question dlc1979 Suspension - Brakes - Steering 2 07-14-2008 06:55 AM
Frame question screamin340 Suspension - Brakes - Steering 2 08-21-2005 09:00 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:53 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.