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Old 06-14-2010, 09:46 AM
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question about muratic acid and rust

I sandblasted the hood, trunklid and doors on my car last fall. They have been in my garage since then and have stayed rust free although I haven't painted them yet. I had one door that had a deep scratch that after blasting the paint away, the rust stayed. There were also several small spots that had deep surface rust where no paint had been in a long time. I was afraid of warping the metal if I blasted too long in any area so I left these spots go, figuring I would get them by hand later. I had read somewhere that a 50/50 mix of water and muratic acid would remove the rust.

This mixture along with a wire brush did indeed remove the rust. I just wasn't prepared for what happened then. I wiped the metal off with a clean rag. Almost immediately the metal turned a blue/green color and shortly after that the entire surface turned to rust.

I have several questions involving this. First: Do I need to sandblast again to get back to white metal? Do I need to get back to white metal? Is there something that happened to the metal during the sandblasting process that has kept it from rusting white sitting through the winter? Is there something I need to do to prep this metal before I paint? I had delayed painting until after some body work was finished, but should I go ahead and prime and do the bodywork on top of the primer? This is my first street rod and I am doing it by myself without much background experience so any help would be appreciated.

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Old 06-14-2010, 10:26 AM
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If you the acid from Home Depot its already diluted and it works ok but isnt a wonder product.

I got a better product from the POR-15 product line that didnt do what you descibe and had less fumes. That and It can be bought in a gallon jug w/spray bottle for all sizes of aplications. It takes about 30-45 minutes kept wet but removes surface rust great.

Then dry/paint or seal since I also used it on my gas tank.
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Old 06-14-2010, 10:51 AM
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Thanks NVScouter. Any suggestions on what I do about the damage I already did?
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Old 06-14-2010, 10:52 AM
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muriatic acid is for swimming pools. you put it on sheet metal and it will make it brittle .
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Old 06-14-2010, 12:58 PM
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I am not sure but look at rustrelease.com or rustreleasegel.com used both and both work wonders

They are a green product doesnt hurt your skin if you get it on you doesnt hurt paint or rubber and best of all it takes all the rust away
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Old 06-14-2010, 01:45 PM
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Thank you 200horse
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Old 06-14-2010, 02:49 PM
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I use pool acid to clean out rusty motorcycle gas tanks. After my first one re-rusted within days, I figured out I need to follow the acid wash with a baking soda + water solution. This neutralizes the acid.

Not sure how to fix your issue - beyond my body work knowledge. Maybe rinse/clean with pool acid again then neutralize with baking soda.

That pool acid is nasty stuff...
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Old 06-14-2010, 02:54 PM
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Thanks job2wheels, I'd rather try that than reblast.
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Old 06-14-2010, 07:09 PM
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just use some Metal Ready or equivilant on the surface rust then primer.

I dont know about making it brittle, pitting maybe. But I dont think it would penitrate to make it brittle. Shine whats the deal there?

We are just talking about left over surface rust right? If Shine is right what about using a torch to aneal it a bit?
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Old 06-14-2010, 08:01 PM
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For many decades, the standard of the industry has been "phosphoric acid". That is the key ingredient in metal prep and other such products. It simply works, and is reliable.

The way phosphoric acid works is that it changes rust from "iron oxide" to "iron phosphate". That is the gray colored residue left after you use it. The difference between the two is that Iron oxide presents an ongoing deterioration. Iron phosphate is "dead"... it just lays there. You can paint over it, and will not continue to get worse, like iron oxide.

I would use the proven product, and not be experimenting. ....unless you like to do things over. I like to paint something one time, and have it stay looking nice. I even guarantee my work for as long as they own it.
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Old 06-14-2010, 08:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TucsonJay
For many decades, the standard of the industry has been "phosphoric acid". That is the key ingredient in metal prep and other such products. It simply works, and is reliable.

The way phosphoric acid works is that it changes rust from "iron oxide" to "iron phosphate". That is the gray colored residue left after you use it. The difference between the two is that Iron oxide presents an ongoing deterioration. Iron phosphate is "dead"... it just lays there. You can paint over it, and will not continue to get worse, like iron oxide.

I would use the proven product, and not be experimenting. ....unless you like to do things over. I like to paint something one time, and have it stay looking nice. I even guarantee my work for as long as they own it.
There is a lot to be said about using a known good over the latest wonder product. If you use HLC do it outdoors and get plenty of safety gear from a chemical supply. The vapors are nasty.

TusonJay looking at your album your a painter by trade? Damn fine stuff in you gallery sir.
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Old 06-14-2010, 09:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NVScouter
There is a lot to be said about using a known good over the latest wonder product. If you use HLC do it outdoors and get plenty of safety gear from a chemical supply. The vapors are nasty.

TusonJay looking at your album your a painter by trade? Damn fine stuff in you gallery sir.
I don't buy the latest products, because I have been burned that way. Very often they were not completely ready for general use. When the job "blows up", because the product has problems,they give you a can of paint. However they do not pay you for the hours and hours of labor to do it over again.

I usually stick with what works 100% of the time, and only change if I have to... and then it is to a "proven" product, not a new one. (I hate doing things over!) :-)
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Old 06-14-2010, 10:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TucsonJay
. When the job "blows up", because the product has problems,they give you a can of paint. However they do not pay you for the hours and hours of labor to do it over again. :-)
True a 100% guaranty only covers the $19.99 product not the $200 repair
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