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-   -   question about a pro street frame (http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/question-about-pro-street-frame-145845.html)

alle4901 09-29-2008 12:17 PM

question about a pro street frame
 
Hey all, I have a 1957 chevy truck that Iam getting ready to pro street the rear half, I will be useing a 20x15 rims and a set of mickys s/r sportsman 29x18x20. along with a air ride 4 bar kit.Iam just looking for any info on how to build a rear clip and any info on do's and donts as well as any past mistakes people have made. This is my first and only found little info on how to. I just want to do it right the first time some pictures has helped but guidance will be of big help here, Thanks, Mike

Kim57 09-29-2008 03:11 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Welcome to the site Mike.
Here's a couple pics of the pro street 57 I'm building. The back half is built from 2"x4" rectangular tube. You can also by a kit from a number of places that you can weld on to your frame. I think the most important thing is to make sure everything is level and square. Measure, measure, measure...
Kim

alle4901 09-29-2008 03:20 PM

Gotta say that looks clean and solid, thanks so musch for the advice, whats the best way to square it off. what determined how high to take the STEP UP for the clearence for the axle?

Kim57 09-29-2008 11:26 PM

Mike
This project was started 16 years ago. At the time I didn't have the experience to do the welding so I farmed it out to someone who had done some others. I don't know what he used to determine the kick up in the back but I have plenty of room for suspension travel. If you want I can take some measurements for you.
He used 2 steel building I beams lay-ed parallel to each other and level with each other to build it on. I had already stripped my frame of all the other suspension.
Kim

aosborn 10-07-2008 11:07 PM

re: question about a pro street frame
 
Unless you are really into designing your own rear frame section, you should look into purchasing a pre engineered system from Art Morrison or Chris Alston or many others. If you are going to do it yourself, there are many things to consider and it would be tough to cover in a forum like this. Some of the main points to shoot for are when the vehicle is at ride height are...

The lower 4-link bars should be parallel to the ground to start with.

The coil-over units should have about 60-70% of the travel available for bump travel (compression) with the rest for droop travel.

Mount the coil-overs as far outboard on the axle as possible and angle them inboard at the top about 10-20 degrees.

Have enough clearance over the rear axle so you can run exhaust and still have more than enough clearance so when the suspension is at full bump, nothing will hit.

Install a panhard bar if the car is for street use, and make it as long as practical. The longer the better and attach it to the frame on the right side. Make the mounts and the bar beefy. DO NOT use the panhard bars that bolt to the third member of a Ford axle. Longer bars are much better even with the extra effort to get one in. Make it parallel to the ground at ride height and roughly centered on the rear axle housing. Do this step even if using an aftermarket rear clip!

Stay away from any Heim joints in the linkages and go with Urethane style ends.

Make the connection to the stock frame very beefy and/or add a roll cage to tie the rear frame into the rest of the vehicle.

It is great fun to build a set-up like this, but do some reading up on the subject before diving in. Chris Alston has an excellent book on chassis construction and set up that you might want to check out. Let me know if you have more questions!

1969NovaSS 10-08-2008 12:47 AM

Im a little curious as to way yo want to stay away from heim joints? Im just wondering because almost all 4 link kits are meant to be used with them.

aosborn 10-08-2008 08:39 AM

re: question about a pro street frame
 
Heim joints are great for the racetrack where the suspension system gets frequent maintenance. If the vehicle's primary use is the street, heim joints dont live long in that environment. Dirt and especially moisture will quickly turn them into immoveable objects. That being said, teflon lined heims are a step in the right direction, and even installing seals that are available do help increase the life of the joints, but in the end a more maintenance free solution that is plenty strong is just to go with urethane bar ends. Heim joints also transfer alot of vibration and road noise to the chassis.

alle4901 10-09-2008 03:47 PM

Thank you so much every little bit of advise helps , Thank You Agaim. Mike


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