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Old 10-31-2005, 03:39 PM
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question about Souther Polyurethane paint care

not sure if any of you remember me, but I was active for a short period of time back in may and june of this year when my car was under the knife. I repainted it with SP black base and SP clear (can't remember which one).

the paint came out great, a bit of orange peel, but nothing that I can't deal with as the car is driven daily. I have two questions though, now that it has been 4 months since the car was painted, what should I look at doing in terms of polishing/waxing etc? As the car is used daily and I just spent the last week driving from my former home in Olympia, WA to my new home in Silver Spring, MD so it has already aquired its fair share of rock chips...it still looks a million times better than before, but it could really use a good polish/wax job as it has the fine scratches from car washes etc.

Are there any products and methods that you all could recommend. I have always just used meguiers and 3m products but haven't really had that much experience with new paint before (this is only my 3rd paint job and the first two were maaco cheapies).

thanks for any help you can provide,
Alden

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Old 10-31-2005, 03:56 PM
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First thing to do is kill the car washes, except by hand.

Polish out the car wash scratches with a 1500 type compound than wax.
Any good wax will do.
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Old 10-31-2005, 05:12 PM
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oh don't worry, I only wash by hand but even doing that the absorber towel seems to have left some very very fine scratches...I need to find a good place around here though as my apartment complex doesn't have a wash area like my old one did.

thanks for the help Gary, once again I can't say enough good things about your product

-alden
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Old 10-31-2005, 06:49 PM
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Man glad to see you are still with us bro... I was somewhat worried since I had not seen anything from you in quite some time... I know you are in the millitary.... also glad to hear your paint is still mackin

Welcome back bro, you are always welcome here

Matthew
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Old 11-01-2005, 05:26 AM
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Black is the ultimate challenge to keep nice,
I would recommend you wax it with one of the common
products that are advertised as a restorer such as
Turtle Wax 2000, or Colorback, or any of the others that are aimed
at rejuvinating an old finish. These products have a polish in them
along with a wax that takes those really fine scratches off.
Remember to use a very soft clean cloth or you'll get them right back.
I had a black plastic fairing on a motorcycle that the only way I could
wax it without getting scratches was to use a cheesecloth to wipe
th wax off. They're the best.
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Old 11-01-2005, 05:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BondoKing
Man glad to see you are still with us bro... I was somewhat worried since I had not seen anything from you in quite some time... I know you are in the millitary.... also glad to hear your paint is still mackin

Welcome back bro, you are always welcome here

Matthew
thanks, yeah the paint is still looking great, the only flaws are because of the painter rather than the product...the hood was sprayed a bit too thin so you can at certain angles see shadows of the filler that was used to cover the small dings...other than that and the few rock chips everything is still excellent. I really can't thank you and Gary enough!
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Old 11-02-2005, 08:14 AM
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ok a little update...

I went out yesterday, picked up some 3m rubbing compound (I believe fine, don't have it on hand), and some 3m wax. I spent the morning doing both, and for the most part it came out ok except I have some ghost like lines on the paint now...don't really know what to call them, but that's what they remind me of. Some parts of the paint are darker than others, and then there is some decent smudging. I didn't want to buff the paint too much but even on the few spots where I tried to buff it out it didn't go away. What can I do to take care of this?

thanks,
Alden
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Old 11-02-2005, 09:46 AM
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Find out what you used for sure... If I am guessing right you used a compound by hand??? this alone all over you car is going to cause holograms and swirls and scratches... You need a rotary buffer to buff with these professional line of products.. Then you topped it with wax which does nothing more than seal the paint... Wax protects it does not change the appearance...

Let me know if this is what you did and the name of the compound like "Perfect IT ll" etc... No big deal. So dont stress about it, very easily fixed and made like brand new

Matthew
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Old 11-02-2005, 12:50 PM
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ok I took a look, it was 3m perfect-it II rubbing compound, and the wax was the perfect-it show car liquid wax.

everything was done by hand, which unfortunately is about all I can do, I don't have power access for a buffer (the joy of apartment dwelling). or could I get away with one of the battery powered ones like this:


http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00910724000

So what process should I have done between the wax? should I go with the rubbing compound, then a glaze, then a wax? Is there any possible way to do this by hand without leaving the marks or do I need ot find a way to do it via machine?

thanks
alden

Last edited by alden; 11-02-2005 at 01:01 PM.
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Old 11-02-2005, 02:40 PM
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ok I know I'm all over the place with my responses but I may have found an option for an outdoor outlet (gotta love aunts/uncles living nearby)...

I use to have a craftsman buffer back in highschool and just wanted to know if that was still a decent option for the low cost entry level route. If so, do I do all three steps (if the three steps I mentioned above, rubbing compound, glaze, wax are correct of course) with the buffer or should I still wax by hand?
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Old 11-02-2005, 04:12 PM
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What is the rpm rating on the craftsman... Even if it is not varible speed ( meaning adjustable) you can still make those type work in your situation...

You need the rotary buffer for the Perfect IT ll compound and then you will need it as well for the glaze... I dont use 3m, so I am not familiar with the product steps... Maybe Bob or Mike or Vince can chime in here... I have used Mirror Glaze for the last 13 years and am going to switch to Presta when I run out my products I have...

The wax of course you can apply by hand or by one of those little orbital buffers you can buy at your local stores.... Lets see if one of the above mentioned guys chime in..

Matthew
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Old 11-02-2005, 04:18 PM
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the craftsman is here: http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...site=CRAFT#tab

the site says it's a two speed with ranges from 1400 - 1650 rpm. It's a 6 inch buffer.

are there specific pads I should use for the different products or will the standard wool bonnet work for both the compound and glaze?

thanks again for all the help
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Old 11-02-2005, 09:33 PM
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That buffer will work ok. First off wash the car with a dishsoap or liquid laundry detergent like purex to remove all of your wax. Then using the buffer at the slowest speed setting and the perfect-it II buff one area at a time. Buff only a 16"-20" square area then move over and buff another area untill the whole car is buffed and the small surface scratches are removed. Now wash the car again. Then switch to a foam pad and a light polish like the old 3M finesse or similar to remove the swirl marks created in the compound stage. After the polish is done wash the car again and apply your wax. Don't do it on a windy day if you're doing this outside, a few dirt particles thrown on the car from wind can really cause some damage if your buffer is swirling them around.
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