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Old 02-10-2004, 10:42 AM
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Question on air supply setup for painting

Heres the scoop,

I have an 80 gallon, 6 hp upright air compressor by Ingersol-Rand, I am using a multitude of paint guns, from gravity fed Sharpe, to HVLP Finishline 3 gun.

The problem I am having is water in the line. I have tried water traps both at the comressor and midway on my line. nothing will stop it, after about 20 min of shooting the color, I get water at the tip.

I am using a 3/8 hose straight from the compressor. I was told my problem is that the rubber hose is heating up from the warm comressor air and condensing inside the hose. What steps can I take to eliminate this? I have heard using conduit pipe, but there are many choices, galvanized,copper etc. if this is so, which setup would be best?

Thanks in advance

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Old 02-10-2004, 10:53 AM
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I would suggest a trap at the gun as well. Be sure your not letting the hose rest on a wet floor between coats so water can get in the coupler at the end...

http://www.a2zautoforums.com/showthr...5937#post25937
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Old 02-10-2004, 10:55 AM
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Be sure you drain the compressor tank every day or so if you are using it often. Mine sets outside, comes through the wall with galvanized steel pipe, about four feet, Then there is two moisture traps and regulators, and two hose connections,lets me use one unregulated and one regulated at the same time.

For painting I have an old Toilet paper filter the air has to go through after the trap and regulator set up. Some times I use a moisture trap at the inlet of the paint gun if I'm having any moisture problems.

HTH

Troy

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Old 02-10-2004, 10:57 AM
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Don't know if this will help- but I had the same problems- especially in the Spring with all the humidity here in the Midwest- I have since hung all hoses on the wall so they are not just laying directly on the floor- either with hose reels or by mounting with clips. I have a large filter/water trap at the reel and another small in-line filter right at the gun. I have not noticed the problem as much since doing this. If the compressor runs a lot, it will cause the hot air to condense moisture, but yours should be big enough to eliminate that as a problem. Good Luck!! Water in the lines is a continuing battle!
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Old 02-10-2004, 11:39 AM
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Coming straight out of your compressor with rubber hose could be some of your problem.I used 3/4 galv pipe connected right to the compressor,out of compressor I have a air filter, pipe is about 4ft off of floor around shop,in one corner of shop where I do my body work,made a "down loop" in air line about 2ft at the bottom of then another air filter then back up to a regulator,then to my air hose, could do this by compressor too.Did help quite abit.HTH.
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Old 02-10-2004, 02:36 PM
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I had a compressor that gave me lots of moisture problems, and I used that system on it, seemed to work good.


[color=red]DON"T FORGET TO DRAIN THE COMPRESSOR[/color]


Troy

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Old 02-10-2004, 02:36 PM
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oops
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Old 02-10-2004, 06:49 PM
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Thanks for the info, is there any better brands of the the filters that go right at the gun?

I do drain the tank everyday, and I live in the mountains of east Tennessee and it is VERY humid here during the spring and summer months. I do run the lines on the floor as suspending 25' of hose from the tank through the air over to the work area wouldnt be practical for me. the trap I use now has like a brass filter? type of cylnder inside. I also have the small type but it also has a brass type of thing inside of it. it was all I could find at the time.

zonk's idea about running the line around the shop was one I had thought about. I think this will be the direction I will try. I read on the forum someone posted that I should have the line going uphill and have the trap higher than the outlet of the tank, this I did not do and will definitly do first thing. I was unsure about the galv, pipe. it is the cheapest way, but I was unsure if it was the better way to go. I didnt want to fork out the money for the piping only to find out it caused other problems.

Thanks again
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Old 02-10-2004, 07:56 PM
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I had some problems when I was using a small compressor. It ran most of the time, and was getting hot. I used a house box fan to cool it, and made a world of difference. I also use a small filter at the gun.
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Old 02-10-2004, 08:41 PM
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Hi Purple
I fought your battle for a year then finally solved it. Out of my standup compressor I use a 3/4" steel braided hose to absorb the vibrations before going to wall mounted hard line. This is only 2' long, got it made at the auto parts store. From there, I use 3/4" PVC for all my lines. Some have critcized the PVC but if you use sched 40, the rating on the side of the pipe is 495 PSI. Key is to get all joints squeaky clean and tight, take your time. The air comes out of the compressor real hot, a trap set right next to the discharge doesn't capture the moistrue, it needs to cool and condense for the trap to work. After an intial pressure regulator, I built a system of up and down vertical pipes using 90 degrees ells, probably 5 legs about 3' long. At the bottom of each leg(U-turn), I drilled and tapped a small brass drain, like a radiator drain into the PVC elbow, be careful, it CAN be done. After this, I installed a commercial water trap, heavy duty, 3/4" in and out. From there, necked it down to 1/2" and ran the supply to sevral locations including the paint area. At that spot, I installed another trap plus a smaller regulator. Final trap was at the gun, a small plastic type that most paint stores keep at the front counter. An overkill?, maybe but what a drag having the surface prepped, paint mixed and 1/2 on then WATER!!!
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Old 02-11-2004, 02:34 PM
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Trackman, that is a GREAT idea! I agree totally I would much rather be too careful than watered down. lol

I never thought about the pvc, I will compare costs and see which is better for me Galv or PVC, and get to work building the network of lines. tell me, the drains you put in the elbows, did you seal them with PVC sealant? and I am assuming that these are for draining off excess trapped water after it has been used a while, or do you see much collection there, aka do you have to drain those during the shoot?

I will have to check and see about the braid hose, you say you got your local auto store to do that for you? did they just put ends on a hose you supplied or what type of hose should I find. I currently have mine in a corner of the shop and I havent thought about a flex hose to the wall, but it makes sence to me now.

thanks for all the info

Scott
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Old 02-11-2004, 04:18 PM
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Radiator

If you come out to the wall and use galvanized pipe (metal cools better) then go back and forth (horizontal) until you get down to the floor you can use a metal tee to put the drain unit into. No drilling. Then go with SCH40 back to ceiling and make drop offs to connect your hose. The metal pipe will make a VERY BIG difference. As you get more money, you can even add flow filters to the connectors. If your compressor is portable, just invest in a VERY good air filter.

hr41pearl
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Old 02-11-2004, 04:38 PM
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silly question?

cant you just use a a big CO2 tank for your air (pressure) supply? since welding gas has to contain no hydrogen, you are bound to get the driest air (pressure) from a tank of CO2. has any one tried this? its only $12 bucks to fill it up and it should last for a few paint jobs or 2. chepper than renting a compressor and dealing with moisture problems. just need to regualte the flow (cfm), and pressure (psi at the gun)

would this work or would thier be a problem with it?

supa
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Old 02-11-2004, 05:31 PM
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Are you going to weld the paint on??????????lololololololllll

Big shops have a dryer in line.

It would take a truck load of bottles.......???????lmbolmbolmbolmbolmboooo.....

Troy
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Old 02-12-2004, 06:52 PM
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If I run either PVC or Galv. I have read I will lose pressure down the line. is there a formula for the amount of airloss if I use 3/4 galv piping? hate to ask such a dumb question, but I cant find it anywhere other than one saying you will lose some. I need to know how much if I am going to run a network of lines

Thanks
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