[Mr. HMP]

hope I can explain this well enough.
it's for the rear seat back.
I need to create a seat cover that has raised bolsters on either side of the seat inset. I wish I had a picture but I don't. it's one of the most complicated jobs I think I've tackled. the original seat had no bolsters so there's nothing to go by. hope you can help.
terry

[jkrestorationllc]

you need to build up the foam on the frame and shape your foam the way you want your bolster to look...and figure out where your going to put ur listing (depending on what kind of seat it is) for hog rigs or if your going to glue the cover on...once youve built your foam to how you want it then you can make your bolster patterns out for making the cover...

[Mr. HMP]

do you think glue will hold well enough to the foam. what glue would you use.
I was wondering if a backing was required so that when the cover is stretched in place, the sides of the bolster won't move. the 1" foam would then be stuffed into the pocket creating the bolster.
I have 2" on the frame already. maybe I'm making more out of this than required.
terry

[jkrestorationllc]

what kind of seat is it? glue will hold it then when you stretch your cover you hog ring it in the back...depending on what kind of seat it is....weldwood contact adhesive will work...older mustang seat covers are glued and there a B&@ch to get off so it holds well...

[DanTwoLakes]

Originally Posted by Mr. HMP

do you think glue will hold well enough to the foam. what glue would you use.
I was wondering if a backing was required so that when the cover is stretched in place, the sides of the bolster won't move. the 1" foam would then be stuffed into the pocket creating the bolster.
I have 2" on the frame already. maybe I'm making more out of this than required.
terry

JKresto is right, you need to be able to hold the seat cover down to the foam right next to the bolsters, or you will not get the shape you want. You can do that with glue, with wires and listings, or with Velcro and Velstick like the newer cars. If you glue it, make sure it's exactly right the first time. Is this new foam you are using? If so you can use Top and Trim adhesive or foam to foam glue. If you are trying to do this to an old piece of foam, you'll need to cover the stress points with something more, like Versare, glued on with top and trim adhesive to hold the old and new foam together. You need to use foam that is very rigid that will hold it's shape as much as possible. the smaller the bolster the stiffer the foam needs to be, or the bolster won't hold it's shape. You'll need at least 65 compression foam and probably 80 to 100 compression for smaller bolsters. You can soften the bolster with some dacron fiberfill which will help the cover slide on better.

[Mr. HMP]

thanks for the comments guys. I'll experiment with some adhesives and find if anything I have will work otherwise I'll have to source this weldwood product.
terry

[DanTwoLakes]

DAP Weldwood top and trim adhesive, 3-M top and trim adhesive, Helmetin green top and trim adhesive are all good contact adhesives. Kwik-Spray 220 or 225 and K-Grip 201 or 203 are good foam to foam glues. Kwik-Spray 220 is a lower viscosity and will spray from a Critter sprayer. Kwik-Spray 225 is heavier and would need a spray gun with a bigger nozzle. These are all spray grade adhesives. Aerosols work somewhat, but to make sure it lasts forever, use a spray grade adhesive. The picture is a Critter sprayer. Stay away from 3-M 74 and 77 aerosols. In my experience they just don't work.