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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 09-13-2005, 10:39 AM
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Most auto dark are too dark for MIG IMO. I have an auto dark adjustable shade set on #10 that I love. My problem is position and always starting the arc in the wrong place and get tired of flipping the helmet up and down to reposition or working in a confined area that you really can't flip it up. MARTINSR has a nice set up with that helmet and if I did welding for a job,would consider it myself.
Problem with some of the adjustable shade's is the "curtain" effect some of the cheap one's have. You can see the shade part before your eye's while adjusting and does not offer quality vision all across the shield.
Mine I got a harbor awhile back seem's to be a full vision shade adjust.It was around $80.00 on sale and I have not seen any like it in the store since.

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Old 09-13-2005, 11:45 AM
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Bee, you apparently have the hood with the "Chameleon" lens which just happens to be the very same lens from the same manufacturer that makes them for the Hobart and Miller hoods, only the shell is different the lens is the same thing but for less than half the price (I have noticed recently that the newer Hobart/Miller hood has a new style lens and I don't know if it is the "Chameleon"). I have a Jackson that cost well over $400 and it is no better for the mentioned problem than any hood I have used including the Hobart/Miller/Harbor Freight which, BTW, is a very good outfit. I am not saying this a problem for everyone but it certainly is for me and apparently Modas also so that is why I would like to have someone try that little test I mentioned and see if this is a common problem. I found that the ability to see the seam greatly improved with the "stone age" hood to the point that I now use it instead but as you pointed out the initial arc start can be tricky.
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Old 09-13-2005, 01:45 PM
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I'll check the 2 next time I'm in the welding place.
The helmet itself is kind of elongated and you need some room to swing it up.
I'd like a smaller,more contoured one and one that has some type of top on it.
Man, Those sparks can really find their way to the top of your head.
I took on of those leather sleeve's and cut it to fit over the top and back of my head and fastened it along the top with a snap kit.Kinda like a Legionair cap deal. Welding cap's are a hassle,for me anyway, and this really helps.
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Old 09-24-2005, 05:01 AM
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I've been using an auto for a while, miller $350 it has a bunch of setting on it but its still kind of , i don't know, not just right, there is always some little thing, like it goes dark when I don't want it to and the flip mech is a real P.O.S. I prefer it for tig or if i have a long row of tacks, but if I am just blowing mig wire or stick I just go grab my old Jackson wide screen.

Now one little thing to think about If you are right handed....and you are insistent on pushing don't take it over literal. your wire entry should not be at more than about a 30 degree angle.... does that make sense? Its not a scraper. and you have to pick your position so if your right handed you can weld from left to right that way you can see your puddle all the time , if you go right to left the gun will get in the way and you wont be able to see what you are doing.
tip 2 stick you face in there thats why you have a hood, your glass should be 8-10" away until you figure out what it is that you are looking at. don't be a chicken just wear ear plugs so you don't get a flaming spark of death in your ear. Try and post some pictures.
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Old 11-09-2005, 04:24 PM
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okay, don't flame me i'm new. (Great mig welding instruction by the way)

When your looking at the puddle while dragging, what exactley are you looking at? Are you looking @ the height buildup to be even with the part you have already welded? It seems i have my prettiest welds when i'm dragging, with the gun probably at about a 30 degree angle. My problem i have a hard time seeing the bead pool because the gun is in the way. So i just ocolate with a rythym & keep a steady pace. I tried pushing a few times & i feel like a spastic. lack of control Thanks Any help would be greatley appreciated!
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Old 11-09-2005, 04:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gROCERYgEtteR
I've been using an auto for a while, miller $350 it has a bunch of setting on it but its still kind of , i don't know, not just right, there is always some little thing, like it goes dark when I don't want it to and the flip mech is a real P.O.S. I prefer it for tig or if i have a long row of tacks, but if I am just blowing mig wire or stick I just go grab my old Jackson wide screen.

Now one little thing to think about If you are right handed....and you are insistent on pushing don't take it over literal. your wire entry should not be at more than about a 30 degree angle.... does that make sense? Its not a scraper. and you have to pick your position so if your right handed you can weld from left to right that way you can see your puddle all the time , if you go right to left the gun will get in the way and you wont be able to see what you are doing.
tip 2 stick you face in there thats why you have a hood, your glass should be 8-10" away until you figure out what it is that you are looking at. don't be a chicken just wear ear plugs so you don't get a flaming spark of death in your ear. Try and post some pictures.
So grocery, when your running your bead left to right are you ocilating, making ccccc's, zzzzzzz's, back & forth, or doing nothing. What is the best method to get the prettiest & penetrating welds? thanks in advance
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Old 11-09-2005, 04:49 PM
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What you are looking at? well that is the big question isn't it!

When you drag your weld it also makes it more difficult to see what you are looking for, not only because the gun is in the way but because you cant see the mechanics of the things that are going on with your fill material.

Basic size rule: fillet weld should be equal to the material thickness say you are welding 1/4 plate butt joint, there is no need for a 1/2 weld because it can not be stronger than the parent material.

but if you are welding a 1/4 to 1/4 "T" then you can get away with 50% if you weld both sides.

what you are looking for is penetration, how deep the weld is going into the parent material, size, and an equal face, which means you want your weld to overlap both pieces of parent material equally. They may be tricky to understand with out looking at it. For example you want to weld both pieces together not weld one piece and let the weld roll over to the other, you can accomplish that by oscillating the filler metal within the face area. The root is important too but you really cant see that usually.

the only other thing i can add is don't take the push pull thing to literal, when I can i extend my arms as far as comfortable, slightly angle the gun head towards my body, and pull it to my self. I am right handed so I am pushing the weld from right to left its all in the head angle that determines if you are pulling or pushing. to pull the weld it would be the opposite angle away from my body and I couldn't see the weld because the gun would be in the way.

oh and you want to watch the filler metal contact the parent metal as best you can.


I hope that helped
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Old 11-09-2005, 04:59 PM
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thanks, any advice i can get helps. yesterday i was welding 15" channel to 18" channel. If you were to weld those pieces horizontaly, how wide would your weld be & do you oscillate or just keep the tip still. Sorry just trying to get a good feel for this.
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Old 11-10-2005, 09:46 AM
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Most times, unless i am putting down something big, i don't make letters. I just go front to back, kind of like a scraping motion. lead it a little to stick the root and then back up to build it up. these are just quick little flips. I keep meaning to do some little passes and taking some pictures but time is well money. If I feel like screwing around and my weld face is 1/2" or better I will make a "P" loop because my first name is Patrick.It never really looks like a "p" just a weld but whatever. The angle that you approach the weld also makes them different. It's hard to explain but you can kind of" bounce or bank" the weld to prevent unwanted undercut, Undercut when the weld leaves scars in parent material.

The best and prettiest, is a nice hot ,rounded face fillet with no oscillation, oscillation leaves puddle makes more like a tig weld where the other is just a nice smooth weld, all preference really.
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Old 11-10-2005, 09:49 AM
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how thick is the material? on that channel? 1/4", and what are you using it for?
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Old 11-11-2005, 12:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gROCERYgEtteR
how thick is the material? on that channel? 1/4", and what are you using it for?
i would have to say the 18" channel is between 3/8 to 1/2" thick & the 15" channel around 3/8. I tried dinkin around today with what i read on this site yesterday & my welds got worse i think. Used the grinder quite a bit today. anyway you could give me some sort of rythem to your back & forth. like 1&2. Ithink my speed is much of the problem. I guess i just have to keep practicing until i find something that works consistently for me. Thanks again dude!
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Old 11-11-2005, 10:07 PM
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Question on Mig Welding - HOW to

We have a welder here in town that is one of the best i have ever seen, and he wears nothing but a set of goggles, says he never liked a helmet.This guy is always welding beer cans to show off what he can do, and its great to watch him do it. He never has to grind a weld down, and most of the time it looks like one piece. I dont no how he does it, just a great welder. To bad hes stuck in a small town.I am not the best welder but they hold and i have to grind alot. I have two auto darkning helments and have a problem starting my welds cause i cant see the area good enough. And they were not cheap to buy, so i guess i waisted my money.
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Old 11-12-2005, 08:57 AM
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Thats a very good safety lesson Brian,, I can certainly attest to the damage welding can do to your eyes,,, I know all of you have seen these PROFESSIONAL rod builders on T.V...Tac welding something WITHOUT a hood of any kind,,,that is about the most stupid thing you can do,, I have done it for years,, now I am starting to pay the consciences,, My eyes have gone from 20/20 to cataracts in about 10 years,, My vision was getting pretty bad a couple of years ago,, so I thought I needed new glasses,, when checking my eyes for glaucoma,, the dr said I had VERY high tolerance for bright light, HUMMM I thought ,,, I been getting to much welding flash,,, but its a little too late to worry about that now,, I have to go in and have cataracts surgery next month,, Dr says its caused from either too much direct SUNLIGHT???? and aging [more like too much welding with out a hood, TACING or otherwise, its still flashing]
So be good to your self and use a good helmet,, regardless of the type,
the same goes for the other safety equipment also,, Bill

Last edited by Bill Parten; 11-12-2005 at 09:10 AM.
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Old 11-12-2005, 09:17 AM
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get a 65 watt flood light and mount it on a stand so you can adjust it . with it you can see your gap and your weld even with the lens darkened. as long as it's slightly behind and downward it wont activate your helmet. i also use a 1.25 lens so i can see better and not wear my glasses.
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Old 11-12-2005, 09:22 AM
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Bill, If you watch those guys on tv you will also see them MIG and TIG welding in a T-shirt with their arms bare! Some guys really do this and will laugh at you if you try to tell them about the hazards(the guy welding with only goggles is just plain stupid if he is arc welding). I think most of those TV guys just jump in for the camera and probably don't really weld all that much dressed like that but I guess maybe some do. We could probably start a big disagreement here by getting on this subject because guys who do this will not listen anyway and just have to learn the hard way
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