Originally Posted by 69 widetrack
Your right...that car may not warrant a 10K paint job....so don't put one on. It all depends on what you want...if you want it done correctly and you want it shinny and you want it straight and you want it to last...if you can't do it yourself but have a good friend that can...be prepared to pay. If you want it painted, there are many places that will put color on your car for a very reasonable price...but it's going over top of, in your words "the paint is 26 y/o and tired from lack of care..".
If that's what you want...your call...there's nothing wrong with that, as I mentioned, there are many places and people that would do that, I wouldn't, it's my name and reputation that I'd be worried about. If I painted a car like that and something happened....The first question would be, who painted that car??? Not, didn't you want that car stripped? or, Why didn't you get it done properly in the first place? It always lands on the guys lap that agreed to do it for cheap...If I do it right, and something goes wrong, at least I would know what I was working with be able to fix it easier, knowing what's underneath.
most times the baked on paint from the factory is a better base than going to metal and starting over.. depends on the car..
if it's a laquer paint on a all original car, I'd go to metal.. cause if it hasn't spiderwebed(checked) it will...
got to remember mid 80's and newer are 26+ years old now..
tons of these are getting rodded, as most don't have the green for the 64-72 cars,, or s 32-34 ford.. 55-57 etc..
myc-10(71) will go to metal, as the new paint buy the p/o (2000) lifted the oem paint, but not the primer under it.. no idea what gm used on trucks in 71 (enamel??) but the mid line duport pulled it up.. 30 years later.. if it was the new paint only lifting, I'd say p/o prep was the cause.. but it pulled the factory paint.. no sealer was used as far as I can tell.. from a d/a and feathering a spot