Originally Posted by gearheadslife
most times the baked on paint from the factory is a better base than going to metal and starting over.. depends on the car..
if it's a laquer paint on a all original car, I'd go to metal.. cause if it hasn't spiderwebed(checked) it will...
got to remember mid 80's and newer are 26+ years old now..
tons of these are getting rodded, as most don't have the green for the 64-72 cars,, or s 32-34 ford.. 55-57 etc..
myc-10(71) will go to metal, as the new paint buy the p/o (2000) lifted the oem paint, but not the primer under it.. no idea what gm used on trucks in 71 (enamel??) but the mid line duport pulled it up.. 30 years later.. if it was the new paint only lifting, I'd say p/o prep was the cause.. but it pulled the factory paint.. no sealer was used as far as I can tell.. from a d/a and feathering a spot
a good case and point is if say a 2000 Jetta was vandalized and keyed all around. The shop upsales a complete paint job for a few hundred more out of the customer's pocket plus what insurance is giving. You'd want to feather anything to metal like rock chips/keyed areas but you DO NOT want to go taking off that factory zinc coating by stripping the car, that's just stupid if you ask me.
I do not agree that a clear coat can be baked in a shop and be as durable as the manufacture's clear. no way.