most times the baked on paint from the factory is a better base than going to metal and starting over.. depends on the car..
if it's a laquer paint on a all original car, I'd go to metal.. cause if it hasn't spiderwebed(checked) it will...
got to remember mid 80's and newer are 26+ years old now..
tons of these are getting rodded, as most don't have the green for the 64-72 cars,, or s 32-34 ford.. 55-57 etc..
myc-10(71) will go to metal, as the new paint buy the p/o (2000) lifted the oem paint, but not the primer under it.. no idea what gm used on trucks in 71 (enamel??) but the mid line duport pulled it up.. 30 years later.. if it was the new paint only lifting, I'd say p/o prep was the cause.. but it pulled the factory paint.. no sealer was used as far as I can tell.. from a d/a and feathering a spot
Thank you for explaining the acronym (P/O)
are you sure that the previous paint didn't delaminate from the original primer as the OEM has had trouble with adhesion for for decades?
Tech 69...please explain the difference between OEM baking of factory finished paint versus you or I taking a vehicle down to bare metal, properly prepping it, applying base coat, allowing it to flash, clearing it and then running a bake cycle for the recommended time and temperature. Do they use better material from Dupont. PPG etc., do they have better heat? Do they bake it longer? The only major difference that I'm aware of is the "E-coat". However, the E-coat has been blamed for much of the delamination that the OEM has experienced over the years. I'm interested in understanding what the the OEM does that the aftermarket is lacking.
I wouldn't be afraid to put a paint job that I did on a vehicle beside an OEM finish and with all being equal, I would stand behind mine much more readily than the OEM finish. Overall, I'd say that the aftermarket has had a better track record with respect to durability than any of the major auto manufacturers.