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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 01-20-2005, 04:52 AM
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The replacement doors available around here are pitiful. Ive heard too many complaints about fit and finish. Ive seen two trucks with terrible doors on them as well.

If I could ask once again for advice....Would you guys start by fitting the bottom of the door and clamp the skin in many spots as it approaches the seam location? I was thinking of clamping it in place and scribing a cut line to obtain the final cut line for a tight fit.

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 01-20-2005, 08:06 AM
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Hey Daimon,
I think I know what you're talking about. I found this anti heat compound while shopping for lead working tools. It absorbs excess heat around the area you're working, looks like playdough, and is reusable. I found it by searching for "lead" on Eastwood's site.

http://www.eastwood.com/shopping/pro...1&keyword=lead

Hope this helps.

Hey Randy, I've learned a ton from reading your posts, thanks a million! Do you have much experience working with lead body solder? How about a tutorial on that subject?

-Shane
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 01-20-2005, 08:13 AM
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That heat-sink compound can be found at most welding suppliers.
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 01-20-2005, 08:26 AM
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Hi Shane,

Thank you.

Sorry, but I have no experience with body solder. The only time I would ue it, for the most part, is on original seams and along a mis-aligned gap, but even then, I would use it only as a last resort.

Just to throw my $.02 worth in on the heat-sink putty. It may work to pull heat out of the panel, BUT, you're still going to get shrinkage along the heat affected zone, resulting in warpage. There is only one way to control the warpage, and that is to not allow it to get out of hand. You have to stretch the weld seam along the heat affected zone to control it. I've written severa tutorials on this before, so typing in 'heat affected zone' in the search window should bring up everything you need to know about it. I personally find the heat-sink putty as another marketing gimmick.

Randy Ferguson
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Old 01-29-2005, 08:57 AM
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randy when you say you chamferred both panels do you mean you made a v \/.
or did you chamfer the panels to over lap slightley ///

and buy the way unbelievable work.

thanks fore any advice
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Old 01-29-2005, 02:54 PM
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Thank You! 68sportcoupe.

The panels are butt welded with no overlap. Just run a file at around 45 degrees on each panel, front and back side. So you will sort of create an X when the panels mate up. You don't need to file it clear down to a point, but just kill the edge a bit. This will allow you to use less heat to join the panels and the slight void will accept the filler rod, leaving you with virtually no proud weld bead to grind off. For the most part, you will crush the weld into the parent metal when you stretch it along the heat affected zone. This should almost eliminate the weld bead, leaving you with a very smooth seam.

Randy Ferguson
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Old 01-30-2005, 07:18 AM
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when you say file both sides to make an x do you also weld both sides.
the work i need to do is the rear quarters on a 68 falcon.
behind the weel and some spots around the weel well.
i dont have alot to do but want to do best i can .
guess i will have to attempt to hammer it out buy hand being it is on the car and cant be removed.

thanks again
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 01-30-2005, 07:35 AM
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You just weld th face side, it will penetrate very well and you'll not have any void on the backside. Like I said, don't file it clear down to a point, just knock of the sharp edge.

\ /
i i
/ \

Something similar to that.

The lines move after the message is posted, but I think you get the picture!!

Randy
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Last edited by Randy Ferguson; 01-30-2005 at 02:50 PM.
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 01-30-2005, 10:31 AM
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I quench the welds with a cool wet rag.It helps to contract the metal back to where it should be(usually).And like others have said on this post,grinding can very much cause a severe amount of warpage.So keep the grinder moving constantly.
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Old 01-30-2005, 11:56 AM
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Hi Jim,

You are cooling the metal. but welding shrinks...so nothing is being done to counteract that. Also If you quench immediately(still red)after welding, you run the risk of making the metal a little more difficult to hammer and dolly. I've found that using a hammer and dolly with no quenching is best for me.

John www.ghiaspecialties.com
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