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Old 06-25-2010, 10:51 AM
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Questiong about stripping (no not that type)

I am currently stripping the old paint/primer off my truck and it was going slow with a 4" stripping disc so I picked up a Miketa sander/polisher (3000 rpm) and got a 7" velcro style backing pad and some 3M surface conditioner pads (coarse). I tested a small corner of the cab and it does a much faster job.

My question is, I notice the area got warmer than when I use the little 4" setup. How hot is too hot to get a panel, especially larger, flat areas? I was still able to place my hand on it without discomfort but it was warm. It wasn't any warmer than when the panel would be out in the sun. I just want to make sure I don't warp things and figured I better ask, since I am totally new to this whole body work thing.


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Old 06-25-2010, 11:59 AM
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You are ok with that..take looong strokes side to side then up and down and then diagonally and do not let the sander set in one spot..

I have tried most all of it and now do what is known to work..
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Old 06-25-2010, 02:07 PM
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Cool, thanks for the answer.
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Old 06-29-2010, 05:33 PM
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Warm is fine. You won't have to be worried about warping unless you are grinding or welding.
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Old 06-30-2010, 05:35 AM
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I pretty much tried about every way there is to strip paint of cars.Those little discs are pretty good for irregular surfaces like jambs,fender lips, louvers etc...What I really like is they dont leave grinding marks and really polish the metal nice (ready to prime)unless there is a LOT of paint then they are slow and expensive.I found that the fastest and most economical way to strip a car is with aircraft stripper from Kleen-Strip.Once the majority of the paint is off those pads can save some time if you can afford the extra expense.Theres a few tricks to chemical stripping that make it pretty easy,and without any mess,unfortunately you have to learn them from someone or strip quite a few cars to learn most of them.
A good stripper can strip an average 2 dr car ,jambs and all in 8hrs at a cost of 40-50.00 plus a few rolls of tape and paper,without the dusty mess of friction stripping or blasting.
those discs work by softening the paint with heat and those big ones will warp a hood if your not careful.
Try placing your hand on the metal every few minutes ,if its to hot to hold your hand on it its getting too hot.They're better than grinding discs but they're not so good for a newbie to use.
I would strongly recommend you to use the Kleen-strip aircraft stripper for the best results....and save those little discs for the jambs.
BTW,its the edge of the disc that does all the work it wears out quickly and starts slowing down...if you trim off a 1/4 -1,2" and screw it into a smaller backer they'll be useful all the way down to the nub and the smaller they get the tighter the spot they can be used in....Heres a pic I had on hand to help you understand how I use them....these are rol-loc grinding discs but its the same idea and works well for both to get the most out of them. it's also a big time saver to have a few (el cheapo) dedicated angle grinders from Harbor frieght for each pad so you dont have to stop and re-chuck different ones..I use an old pair of tin snips to cut them....
Those big metal conditioner pads were pretty expensive when they first came out I wonder what they cost these days....
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