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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 08-09-2008, 10:58 PM
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50 Chev 3100

If there is a screw-on oil filter on there, it is NOT the original engine. Believe it or not, Chevrolet did not put oil filters on the 6 cyl engines until something like 1961 ! The original 235 in my '57 did not have an oil filter or any provision for one. Often dealers or previous owners would put a "partial flow" filter on, usually hanging off a fender or hanging from a manifold, connected by some small copper lines runnning to/from the engine. The partial flows took a "cartridge insert" in the permanently-mounted cannister.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 08-10-2008, 03:14 PM
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Well, I guess that answers my question about it being the original 216 engine!

Are there any easy ways to tell what kinda motor it is?
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 08-10-2008, 08:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave57210
If there is a screw-on oil filter on there, it is NOT the original engine. Believe it or not, Chevrolet did not put oil filters on the 6 cyl engines until something like 1961 ! The original 235 in my '57 did not have an oil filter or any provision for one. Often dealers or previous owners would put a "partial flow" filter on, usually hanging off a fender or hanging from a manifold, connected by some small copper lines runnning to/from the engine. The partial flows took a "cartridge insert" in the permanently-mounted cannister.
Chevy did put filters on the engines, they were optional equipment, and some years were not offered with them ( and the boss's were not drilled for them ither ).. The factory peice was an A/C unit, but an after market filter that could be used was a FP-40? Fram unit I belive. I have a '51 Chevy with a factory installed A/C unit
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Old 08-10-2008, 09:37 PM
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I looked at the filter the other day, cause I was gonna get new one. The number is PF-25.
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 08-10-2008, 10:03 PM
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I know less than nothing about chevys, but...

My 56 ford 272 Y-block V8 came out of the factory with a canister type oil filter. A converter kit is sold for them that consists of a screw in part and a small round plate (like for $10 or something). Mine has this kit on it and it uses the same FL-1A motorcraft filter as 99% of other fords do (not counting modern metric engines ).

You cannot tell mine did not come out with the screw on type filter unless you remove the filter and then you can see the adapter.

BTW: That looks like a really cool project to start out with. These guys are leading you in the right direction. Get it going, safe, and trustworthy. Drive it while you save money and do research about your future swap. Then buy the needed parts (over time). Get everything you need...then do the swap.

I drive mine so much...I hate to take it off the road to add the next group of parts.
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 08-20-2008, 10:54 PM
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Well, we got it started finally. and all it took was, plugs, plug wires, condenser, points, gas line, carb rebuild kit, battery, distributor cab, coil, and about 12 hours worth of work......now only needs brakes and lights.

Speaking of lights, I'm wondering how much a pain, it's gonna be to put new wiring in it, cause right now it has absolutely no wires ran for headlights, turn signals or brake lights ( in fact it doesn't have any turn signals or brake lights even on it )

and I want y'all's opinion on splicing the brake line at the back of the cab and removing the rusted section, then leaving the old master cylinder and the rest of the old brake lines in it.

I know these are probably dumb questions, but I like to have a pretty good idea about what I'm doing before I tear into something.




hope y'all don't mind me continuing to reply to this thread.....I figured it was better than starting a new one.

also any mistakes I may have made in spelling,part names, etc. just ignore them please. I'll come back tomorrow and correct them when I'm not almost asleep.

as always, I apreciate any and all suggestions.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 08-28-2008, 01:19 PM
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Looks like you have a really great start to a fun project. Wouldn't mind having one of those myself at almost three times your age. Nice set of wheels on it too.

Lots of good suggestions above.

One of the bugaboos with older vehicles is electrical. As you mentioned you don't have some of the wiring in it, I would personally take that as an opportunity to build for the future. Read up on posts in the electrical section, especially those by the late docvette. Do the wiring right the first time with good materials and care and you'll avoid the royal PITA of chasing down electrical problems down the road. That has spoiled a lot of the fun of hotrodding for many people.

Another word of advice: I would resist the temptation to buy everything new. There are a lot of people selling great parts at a premium for high-end hot rods. Nothing against those people or their products, but your most bang for the buck is likely going to be incorporating used parts from various vehicles, and IMHO, that's part of the fun of rodding. Be creative, go to swap meets and junkyards, when you buy new, it should be for things like brakes, suspension, tires, etc.

I don't know what the laws are in TN, but if you can get your parents' permission, your best bet would be to get a job sweeping floors and cleaning up at a bodyshop or garage. You'll make some pocket change, but most importantly, you'll get an education by being able to observe and (hopefully) ask questions. May even pick up some useful parts on the side.

You sound like a nice polite and thoughtful young man by your comments. That in itself will take you a long way with most people. Most of us on the board, and in real life, will bend over backwards to help a young person who is willing to learn.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 08-28-2008, 01:50 PM
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Quote:
Another word of advice: I would resist the temptation to buy everything new. There are a lot of people selling great parts at a premium for high-end hot rods. Nothing against those people or their products, but your most bang for the buck is likely going to be incorporating used parts from various vehicles, and IMHO, that's part of the fun of rodding. Be creative, go to swap meets and junkyards, when you buy new, it should be for things like brakes, suspension, tires, etc.

Best advice I have seen in a long, long time
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 08-28-2008, 05:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by countryboytn
Well, we got it started finally. and all it took was, plugs, plug wires, condenser, points, gas line, carb rebuild kit, battery, distributor cab, coil, and about 12 hours worth of work......now only needs brakes and lights.

Speaking of lights, I'm wondering how much a pain, it's gonna be to put new wiring in it, cause right now it has absolutely no wires ran for headlights, turn signals or brake lights ( in fact it doesn't have any turn signals or brake lights even on it )

and I want y'all's opinion on splicing the brake line at the back of the cab and removing the rusted section, then leaving the old master cylinder and the rest of the old brake lines in it.

I know these are probably dumb questions, but I like to have a pretty good idea about what I'm doing before I tear into something.




hope y'all don't mind me continuing to reply to this thread.....I figured it was better than starting a new one.

also any mistakes I may have made in spelling,part names, etc. just ignore them please. I'll come back tomorrow and correct them when I'm not almost asleep.

as always, I apreciate any and all suggestions.
If you splice the brake line do it with flared ends and fittings, Do Not use compression fittings.
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 08-28-2008, 06:45 PM
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I would not bother to try to splice the line.. I have tried to splice lines that were rusty on the outside using a double flaring tool, and never got it to work. so I just replace the line.. it will likely need new lines anyway tho.. they might look ok, but you cannot see inside them. any master cylinder that has sat, will likely need rebuilt.. there not that hard, get the rebuild kit, and follow the instructions. there is a kit that will allow you to mount a corvette M/C in backwards, and gain a dual resivore Master cylinder ( if a brake line/ wheel cylinder fails, you still have preassure to the other side of the M/C.. there split frt/ rear. so you could still stop )
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 08-29-2008, 05:45 PM
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Sorry took me a while to respond, been kinda busy lately.

Well, I think we are just gonna run all new lines, I wasn't a big fan of just splicing into them anyway, but you cant really argue with the people who are paying for most of the parts ( that being my parents and my papaw mainly).
Don't know when I'm going to be able to get any help though, cause my parents don't know anything about breaks, and my papaw is helping my uncle build a garage, so looks like it is gonna be a month maybe before I get to do anything to it.

Also thanks for the tip about new parts, I had got some catalogs from some places, and realized things could be pretty pricey.

I got youtube video up, for it. Isn't really a video. Just pics and sound, but at least y'all can hear what it sounds like. link is http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ivh5ZxZyGFA

Quote:
Originally Posted by ckucia
I don't know what the laws are in TN, but if you can get your parents' permission, your best bet would be to get a job sweeping floors and cleaning up at a bodyshop or garage. You'll make some pocket change, but most importantly, you'll get an education by being able to observe and (hopefully) ask questions. May even pick up some useful parts on the side.
Already asked them if I could, their response was "It will take all the money you make, to pay for gas to get to work." lol

Last edited by countryboytn; 08-29-2008 at 11:39 PM.
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 08-30-2008, 03:43 PM
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"Already asked them if I could, their response was "It will take all the money you make, to pay for gas to get to work."

While that may be true, I suspect your parents have an alternate motive in mind for wanting to keep you close to the farm.

Once you get out and mixing around with other people, your young and tender mind will be exposed to all sorts of human debris, what I call the lowest common denominator of society. Those who partake of alcohol, tobacco, drugs and other unacceptable human behavior. Hookers, pimps, gays, thieves, swindlers, con men, pedophiles, murderers and others who prey on young men like yourself will be out there waiting for you.

Honor and obey your parents and particularly the old folks in your family. All of them have "been there and done that", so to speak, and have the experience to guide you properly for your own good and prosperity. Trust me on this issue.
Life is a series of choices, hopefully based upon the experience of parents and other family members who only have your best interests in mind. Always counsel with the old folks before making a life-altering decision. Those youngsters your own age, like you, have no life experience to guide you or themselves properly, so don't make any decisions based on what one of your peers tells you.

Like I said in my first post, you seem like a level-headed young man and I'm sure you can understand what I'm saying. As an old guy, I feel compelled to "tell it like it is". I'm spending the time writing this because I feel that you're worth it.

One last thought and I'll dismount my soap box. The key to success in this life is education linked with persistence. There simply is no such thing as too much education. Set your sights and goals NOW to achieve a PhD in the area of your interest and stick to it. As I look back over my life, I now realize (now that it's too late) that I didn't get enough education. Again, counsel with the old folks in your family and the teachers and counselors at your school to establish goals necessary to achieve your PhD.

Enjoyed the video. Hurray for your side!!!!!

Last edited by techinspector1; 08-30-2008 at 04:05 PM.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 08-30-2008, 04:16 PM
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Thanks techinspector1, I understand that some people are...well for lack of a better term...stupid.

"Those youngsters your own age, like you, have no life experience to guide you or themselves properly, so don't make any decisions based on what one of your peers tells you." Is a extremely good thing to remember!

Glad you enjoyed the video, I threw it together in about 5min. so it's not great, but it serves it's purpose I guess. I may redo it later if I get the time though, and add some more pics and another sound clip after the motor is warm, because I wasn't really able to let it idle much without it dying
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 09-01-2008, 08:12 PM
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Looks like all the hard work has been done for you already. The steering column has been changed, is it a tilt? You also said that it has 5 bolt wheels, these trucks came with 6 bolt wheels. You are going to have to figure out what axles where used. Does it have a solid front axle or independent. If you take some pictures under the hood, and some pictures of the front and rear axles as well. Some one on here is bound to know what you have. Good luck young feller......you could do a lot worse things with your time.
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Old 09-01-2008, 09:12 PM
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Thanks for the reply, I'll see if I can't get some pictures tomorrow, and look again so I'll be 100% positive these are 5 bolt wheels. I thought the 1/2 ton had 5 bolt wheels although I might be wrong.

also, it does have a tilt wheel

As always, thanks for the reply!

Last edited by countryboytn; 09-01-2008 at 10:18 PM.
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