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Old 07-27-2008, 05:27 PM
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Questions about my current project.

I'm currently working on getting my 1950 chevy 3100 running, It has been sitting for about 10 or 12 years, And I have some questions.

1. What motor comes in these trucks? I think it's a 216, but i was told it was a 235.

2. What size gas line fits it? somebody has put a brake line on it for a gas line, and I don't know what size to get to replace it.

3. Is the rear axle supposed to sit on top of the rear leaf springs? Mine it is, and I don't know if they have done that to lower it or if thats how it was from the factory.

4. Will a small block 350 fit without to many modifications?

5. Can a 4 speed manual transmission fit without to many modifications.

6. and lastly is there anyway to find out what options etc. came on it from the factory?

This truck originally had a 3 speed in it, but it has been replaced with a automatic.

I'm only 14 and don't have to many things to work with so If any of my questions require welding, please tell me. thanks in advance for any help!


and if I posted this in the wrong place, please move it to the correct part of the forums. and I hope i didn't post this twice cause i tried it a minute ago and I don't think it posted.








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Old 07-27-2008, 08:11 PM
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Unlike most goofy 14 year olds, you seem to have your head screwed on straight, so I'll invest some time in you.
1. Your truck came from the factory with a 216.
2. You can use any size fuel line, but I wouldn't use any smaller than 5/16". Brake line is commonly used for fuel line by us hot rodders. It's cheap and easy to bend. Most guys use a tubing cutter to cut the flares off, then use short pieces of rubber fuel line to connect the hard line together with worm screw clamps. Do not use long lengths of rubber line on your truck. Use hard line with only very short pieces of rubber to connect the hard lines. Use Adel clamps (Ace Hardware) to secure the line to the frame on the way from the tank to the carb, one about every 18 inches. If you don't secure the hard line, it will vibrate and move around, creating cracks and leaks.
3. It appears that the differential has been changed from the original. The way it is installed is ok because the attitude (slight rake) of the truck is acceptable. If you wanted the rear a little lower, you could place lowering blocks between the spring and spring pad. I'd leave it alone if it were mine.
4. Most any V8 will fit in that spacious engine bay without too much trouble.
5. The truck was probably originally a 3-speed manual, so if it still has the clutch pedal and all the clutch actuation linkage, yes, a 4-speed could be fitted without too much trouble.
6. There should be a metal tag on the truck somewhere that will give you enough information to begin the track-down of information. It may be on the firewall or door post. Get the numbers and begin googling them.
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Old 07-27-2008, 10:07 PM
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Thanks for the reply!

About Fitting a V8, I am mainly worried about having to relocate the steering because it runs down the right side of the engine compartment.

And yes, the clutch pedal is still there, I'm not sure about the linkage, I'd say it's probably there though.

By door post do you mean, when you open the drivers door, the plate that has the vin number on it? If so I wont be able to get anything off of it because it has been painted over. I have put paint remover on it, but it still only got enough off to barely make out the vin number, and I have looked on the firewall for any tags etc and couldn't find any.
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Old 07-27-2008, 11:26 PM
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Hi Tyler. A few years back I had a 51 five window with a 350/400 combo. It looks like your pickup has been modified over the years. I would guess that the rear end was replaced when the 235 and automatic was installed.
You will have to move the steering box to clear the engine.
You can get bolt in engine mounts for the V8 swap from many different suppliers.
The serial number plate (VIN) does not give a lot of info but check out the links below for some info.

If you can answer a few more questions the guys on here will be able to help you more.
Is the automatic a 2 speed or a three speed?
Do you have 5 bolt or six bolt wheels on the front and the back?

There are several members building AD pickups, suburbans and panels on this site. Check out the Project Journals section of the site for the members builds. As well use the Knowledge Base and the search function for quick answers to your questions. Study the info on these links I have collected over the years and you will a better understanding of your AD pickup:

http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/6975/specspag.htm

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com...ruck/index.htm

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com...52tomindex.htm

http://www.oldcarmanualproject.com/m...ody/index.html

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com...48csnindex.htm

http://www.oldirononline.com/

http://www.stovebolt.com/

http://www.50chevy.freeservers.com/topics.htm#Topics

My rusty/ratty 48 chevy truck build (w/ pics)

http://www.alanhorvath.com/54chevy/index.php

http://www.oldgmctrucks.com/

Good luck with your project.
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Old 07-27-2008, 11:55 PM
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Thanks so much for the links! I have searched google a few times now, without success on finding any decent information.

I believe it's a 2 speed, I cant confirm that though because I haven't gotten it running yet. I still need a gas line and a battery, which i should be getting sometime later this week.

It has 5 bolt wheels.

Is there a way i can find out what motor is in the truck? to be sure if it's a 216 or 235?

is their kits for relocating steering? or is it one of those things you gotta pretty much make/find parts yourself.

Thanks again for all the help, I really appreciate it!!
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Old 07-28-2008, 01:02 AM
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Found this on chevytalk.org.
"The 235 could be distinguished from the 216 because of the short push rod cover that stopped at the bottom of the head where the 216 went to the top of the head and surrounded the spark plugs."

I will not dispute what homebrew said about moving the steering box because he has done this particular swap and I have not. I will only say that I have successfully moved the motor/trans to the passenger side of the vehicle on numerous swaps in order to miss the steering. As long as you keep the crankshaft parallel with the centerline of the truck, you will have no u-joint problems. There have been some original equipment manufacturers (Chrysler for one) who have moved the motor and trans to the passenger side by as much as 3 inches to allow clearance at the brake booster.
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Old 07-28-2008, 01:17 AM
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ok, I'l have to look and see what it is tomorrow.

I might try to talk my parents into going tomorrow to get a battery and gas line. I'm anxious now to get it running. and aslong as I don't run into major problems it should be running before the end of the week. I dont know if it was a good idea or not, but my papaw suggested spraying rust remover/lubricant type stuff, in the cylinders before I try turning it over so I did. I't been in there since Friday.
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Old 07-28-2008, 05:38 AM
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14 years old and just starting out? I'd keep the motor, trans and rear for now if it seems to all work Ok.

I hate to see beginners get WAY over their heads right from the start with a major swap.

Get it to run and "yard drive" to see how well it works. Then spend your time on making the truck look better. Once it is looking good, and has good brakes and essentials for some test drives, then you can maybe think about swaps.

There is no shame in running a 6 auto in that truck
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Old 07-28-2008, 01:20 PM
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Yeah I was planning on keeping the motor, tranny, and rear end, for right now. I was just wondering what it would take to get a V8 in it. I just wanna get it running right now, cant drive it yet anyway

And I am a beginner, but I'm going to be getting help from my papaw, who has worked on cars all his life, and even retired from GM.

I would already have put a gas line and battery in it, but my parents said I couldn't get a gas line till I knew the EXACT size that is supposed to be on the truck and they said that since my papaw knows about them, to let him help me get it and put it in. My parents arent exactly "car people" anyway, They figure as long as you change the oil every 3 thousand miles and it isn't making any weird noises, it's good to go. Where I'm almost continuously adjusting things, changing things, etc. JUST BECAUSE I CAN!
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Old 07-29-2008, 09:59 AM
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Well, it looks to me like you are destined to be one of us hot rodders (ruined for life ). I agree with F&J and at least for the time being, would urge you to just get the motor running and yard-drive the truck. Begin buying a few books and learning different techniques concerning the hobby. Since you've expressed an interest in engine swapping, I'd suggest these titles to begin with. They will outline all the little details that you may not have thought of and will help to round out your education concerning swapping.....
http://www.amazon.com/Engine-Swappin...7346344&sr=1-1
(new and used for as little as $4.99 plus shipping)
http://www.amazon.com/Practical-Engi...7346889&sr=1-1
(new and used for as little as $7.59 plus shipping)

To learn about the small block Chevy, writings by the author David Vizard are excellent. Here is a list of publications by him....
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_ss_b?...zard&x=13&y=12
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Old 07-29-2008, 06:15 PM
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the factory fuel line size is 5/16".. the truck was 6v from the factory, and it still might be 6v. if it has an alternator installed or a generator that says 12v, it has been converted.. otherwise you will need a 6v tractor battery. I got mine from Tractor Supply Company... you will also need a set of points and a condensor, after 12 years of sitting, there bad and the truck won't run w/o replacing them

truck appears to have dual exhaust, does it have headders or a split manifold? that engine might be warmed up a bit arleady. it sounds like your engine/ trans was replaced with a 235/ PG from a car of the same era.. the shift quadrant would be PNDLR
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Old 07-29-2008, 06:40 PM
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Countryboytn,

Great looking truck! Looks like a great foundation for a wonderful project. With the price of gas these days, I'd keep that 6 cylinder in it. There's something way cool about a 6-cylinder in a hot rod. I'm preferential towards manual transmissions, but if the auto works, enjoy it while you save up enough for a 4-speed swap. I believe the factory position for the rear ends is below the leaf springs. But a common mod is to flip it over the springs for an easy 3" drop. Before you drive that beauty, go through the brakes to make sure all is well. And make sure the emergency brake system works top notch. It could save lives. If anything looks questionable in the braking systems, replace it with new. Parts are cheap, life is priceless. My 15-year old son is counting the days until our 55 Chevy truck is done. It's great to see youngsters interested in these old beauties. Anyway, enjoy the heck out of maintaining and driving it!

Antny
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Old 07-29-2008, 09:50 PM
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Yeah, I know it needs to breaks, when putting the tires and stuff back on it ( they wore stored under their house) to bring the truck up here, one of the break pads broke in half. So I'm just gonna replace them all, I figure if one is brittle like that, then the all probably are. Better to be safe, and do it right, then slap it together and hope it works.

I got a LMC truck catalog the other day, and it shows the axle on top of the leafs, so I guess it came from the factory like that.

I'm pretty sure the truck is 12v. I should be getting parts Thursday, so hopefully I'll get to hear it run Thursday night.

The truck has a a manifold, threw a glasspack muffler, then the the dual tips are actually from a Volkswagen.
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Old 07-29-2008, 10:35 PM
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you have to make sure it is 12v. if you put 12v to a 6v system, you will burn things up ( gauges, coil, lights, radio, heater fan motor, ect... ). if it's got a 12v battery in it, then it's a safe bet it's 12v, but if it has no battery at all, then it's a guess.. coil would be marked 12v, would probably have an alternator if it was 12v, but if the conversion was older, it could use a 12v generator
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Old 08-09-2008, 08:16 PM
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well, here is an update! I now have almost everything I need to get it running. I believe the only thing I like is a battery. I was wondering though, on the motor, would the oil filter be a screw on type on the passenger side of the motor?

I should be getting it running sometime this week, I would have probably already had it running, but my parents said I didn't need to work on it without my papaw's help, so I'ma try to get him up here Tuesday or Wednesday.

Instead of just replying to this thread from now on, I guess I'll make a project journal!

I wanna thank y'all again, for all the help you have given me, And hope to keep you updated as my project progresses!
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