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Old 10-26-2010, 10:44 AM
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Questions about Omni Clearcoat and Buffing out orangepeel.

Hey, Ive been reading through this forum for a while now and people here have already helped me out so much with my first few paint jobs. Here lately ive painted a few cars that i ended up wet sanding and buffing the orange peel out to get a nice smooth finish.

My first problem is that after i compound the wet sanding scratches out i have a bad haze across the panel, ive used meguiars swirl and haze remover but it doesnt seem to help much at all. However i bought some meguiars scratchX and rub it on by hand and it seems to hide the scratches and hazing for a day or so. Ive tryed 3m,meguairs and some other brands of haze removers and just cant seem to get the finish swirl and haze free..

My second question is I have been spraying Ppg Omni clearcoat and was wondering others thoughts on the strength of the clear. I cant even wash the cars without them swirling bad, ive tryed alot of different washing techniques using microfiber towels and different chami's (dont know how to spell that lol) but Everything scratches the surface and when i try to polish the scratches out it will look better until i run a clean microfiber towel over the surface to get the extra polishing compound off then it'll just be scratched up again..

Im really lost and need help so if anyone has any ideas please let me know, Thanks!

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Old 10-26-2010, 10:57 AM
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As far as I know there is no real way to remove swirl marks from the buffer. Of course there are ways to minimize them using the right compound, and buffer.

The quickest way to hide the swirl marks, for a car show, or a few days is to use Meguiars number 7 car glaze. It will hide the swirl marks, but it won't remove them. It does work, but I believe there are also other brand glazes like 3m you could use that would work just the same.
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Old 10-26-2010, 11:05 AM
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first you are using a 2nd line clear. made for car lot work. 2nd there is more to buffing than painting. you need the right equipment and products. believe it or not i use nothing by 3m or mequiars . i buy from the chemical guys and have for many years.
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Old 10-26-2010, 11:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shine
first you are using a 2nd line clear. made for car lot work. 2nd there is more to buffing than painting. you need the right equipment and products. believe it or not i use nothing by 3m or mequiars . i buy from the chemical guys and have for many years.

Yeah im new to buffing and don't know any good products.. Ive tried reading numerous threads but everyone always uses something different and just confuses me more.

Ive heard from a lot of people that the omni clear is actually better then the normal ppg clear in that it lays down smoother and buffs better.

Thanks for the replys though!
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Old 10-26-2010, 11:42 AM
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what Omni clear?

mc270-mc161?

what buffing pad you using?

either use wool then switch to foam polishing pads or start out with foam compounding pad then switch.

i have used several Omni clears on repair work and never experienced this before.

1500 with foam or wool pad 3m compound,then switch to swirl mark remover 3m with blue polishing pad.that's all ive used and it never leaves marks.

even on Black colored rigs


is the clear set-up good?(still to soft)

mc270 - 4-1 clear, mc161 is 2-1 clear



with that said its at best 2nd line clear and not worthy of anything imo other than small repair work.

hope this helps,Travis
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Old 10-26-2010, 11:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rotoryfan1991
Yeah im new to buffing and don't know any good products.. Ive tried reading numerous threads but everyone always uses something different and just confuses me more.

Ive heard from a lot of people that the omni clear is actually better then the normal ppg clear in that it lays down smoother and buffs better.

Thanks for the replys though!


this is not TRUE at all imo,low grade clear.

lays down not nearly as good as PPGs upper lines.

its all about the painter and his equipment also


you fellas really out to give up on these cheap line clears and get some SPI products.

im not spamming them i switched to there stuff a while back and i have used Dupont for 15 years and PPG for 6-7 and nothing they have will compare


that has been my overall experience wish i would have dont it a lot sooner.


if you choose to stick with low grade clears you will always have problems
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Old 10-26-2010, 01:53 PM
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go to chemical guys.com . all they sell is detailing equipment and supplies . beats anything 3m sells and has for years. IF you use all the grits sanding you should not need a wool pad or aggressive compound. when someone tells you to hit it with 1500 then buff stop listening . i use every grit. that is why they make them.
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Old 10-26-2010, 02:30 PM
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Well im going to start using a better clear then.
Any advice on which clear to use? Ill probably try the PPg clear out on a small test panel and see how i like it.

Thanks for everyones help.
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Old 10-26-2010, 06:59 PM
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UV clear

i have used gallons of PPG clear and Omni.

nothing compares

as far as better compounds i don't know.


as far as using finer grits i don't know


i have gotten great results with 1500 and buffing steps,but then again my work doesn't go to fine shows well maybe a few wallys,but then again i don't care,if it sells and they like it that's what pays my bills
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Old 10-26-2010, 07:11 PM
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like i said . stop listening .
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Old 10-27-2010, 05:36 PM
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better still use 2000 just before buffing ... the finer grits cut better kinda like using a hacksaw to cut a metal bolt...

ever cut a bolt with a regular "wood" tooth saw ?

never listen to anyone who tells you not to listen ... ever .

you got one ...use it
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