questions about paint n body work - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Body - Exterior
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 06-29-2009, 12:12 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 12
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
questions about paint n body work

What I have is a 84 Chevy Camaro with t-tops, it appears to have been repainted over the factory paint, (2- single stage layers) and its starting to peel, last year I tried to fix a few small spots, did the feather blend of the areas, and did the degrease/wax remover cleaning step both, before starting and after, then used duplicolor rattle can to spot paint, what is happening is the original paint is peeling from the primer base (has a light green hue, sorta like the etch primer, but when sanded it shows gray) and now the spot repairs are flaking off as well. and more oem paint is peeling elsewhere, in bigger spots
The oem paint that has began to flake, can be removed just by using regular water hose/sprayer pressure. So I am wanting to sand the entire car down. and start from scratch.
From my searching the net, have made this game plan:
1~ fix major dents by hammer/dolly them out
2~sand to bare metal and prime with epoxy dtm 2k
3~ do all necessary body repairs (dings/small dents) on top of epoxy primer
4~ then finish with epoxy sealer
5~ prime with a 2k urethane and block sand out
6~ lay down my bc/cc

My color choices are going with a black epoxy primer,after body work, sealer, then either a black or gray urethane 2k primer, and for the bc color of a midnight blue metallic, and in the 1st layer of clear use a touch of blue pearl powder, (to make it pop in the different lighting conditions), then another 2/3 coats of clear.
I'm starting out with ppg's shopline jp377/lh3770 epoxy primer. and plan to continue using the ppg shopline for the entire job.
I know this sounds like being overboard, but the car is mostly rust free, and I plan on keeping it for along time.

My thought process is that I can do all the prep work 1 section at a time as my time allows for, thats the reason for using a 2k epoxy primer,(epoxy being more weather proof, than urethane) since my job is travel oriented most of the time, leaving the weekends to do the work.I realize when I start doing the color, I have to spray the bc color coats all in the same day, then the following day the clear coats. And being located in FLA, the only draw back is the weather/mother nature.
Then in the end, after everything is done I can take pride in saying "I did it myself"

Any thoughts or suggestions are welcome.

    Advertisement

Last edited by bluechevyz28; 06-29-2009 at 12:18 AM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 06-29-2009, 06:56 AM
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: 50 Ply wagon
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Pottstown,Pa
Posts: 667
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 35 Times in 34 Posts
Your plan sounds good. The only thing I see that will slow you up is surface rust. Once you get the entire car in bare metal, you MUST get primer on it . Because of the humid conditions in Fla, you will have rust forming anywhere you have bare metal. I would get just so much of the car to bare metal, then primer with the epoxy primer. Then just do the other parts as you have time, but bare metal in Fla means rust in an hour.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 06-29-2009, 09:21 AM
302 Z28's Avatar  
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2003
Location: North Texas
Posts: 10,840
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 86 Times in 73 Posts
GM had severe paint quality problems around 84-85. We had a new 85 Cutlass that had terrible paint after several years and had to be repainted. The description of your car leaves little doubt that it all needs to be stripped off and a solid foundation established for any subsequent paint work. I also second the suggestion of using a quality epoxy primer (doesn't need to be the high priced brand).

Vince
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 06-29-2009, 03:04 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 12
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
My plan was/is to strip one panel section at a time,
My search on the net for info, I found HotRodders and Custom Paint Forum, to have the most info/tips. Thats how I came up with my plan. And here in Tampa FL we have several Paint n Body supply stores, 1 is about 5 miles from my house.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 06-29-2009, 04:27 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: gateshead,u.k.
Posts: 6
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
paint reaction

the adverse reactions of the paints on your car are due to incompatable formulations between the layers,one eats into the other and lifts it,a barrier coat is advisable if the paint is suspect.on your bare metal job,yes get it sealed a.s.a.p!also when yer cars in primer it will also draw moisture as primers are microscopic"hooks"that paint locks to so the longer its in primer the less "key"you will get.try n get it all done together away from moisture.take a week off work!!!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Body - Exterior posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
"Basics of Basics" Sectioning a Body MARTINSR Body - Exterior 7 11-24-2008 01:04 PM
Paint Question #157 rj57 Body - Exterior 5 10-31-2007 03:20 PM
"a little over" turns into $4500 over for paint job bullheimer Body - Exterior 128 02-06-2006 09:57 AM
Painting roof tips needed..... Bluepen Body - Exterior 7 09-10-2005 10:26 PM
Body work and paint pricing Lthompson Body - Exterior 6 02-09-2005 08:11 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:06 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.