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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 09-18-2012, 09:18 PM
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On this leaking plugs, the book say that bout 100% before 1969 will leak or ahve leaked and been 'fixed'. I have 1965 with the brass plugs, and they don't seem to be leaking, or I'm not checking them right. There was, however, a piece of what looked like very thick gasket material in the well under the plugs when I took my base plate off. Just laying there in the well like I woke it up from a long nap. didn't find any money or anything else in there, but was somewhat curious bout that piece of gasket, like someone might have put it in there and then put the base plate back on and clamped it down in hopes of maybe stopping a leak. I have no way of knowing, but it may be telling me I'm not checking the plugs for leaks right.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 09-18-2012, 10:23 PM
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Ok, I uploaded a few pictures of my carb. Check it out if you want. One of the first pictures you can see the choke linkage, it didn't really work, but it doesn't look like it was hooked up right either, but I don't know for sure.

Carb Rebuild Pics

Also you guys tell me if you can see but the carb looked pretty dirty to me, carbon buildup in a lot of passages under the "horn-plate" The pics of it disassembled were after a full can of spraying, I'll soak it as well to get everything nice of course.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 09-18-2012, 10:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fasteddy_1947 View Post
On this leaking plugs, the book say that bout 100% before 1969 will leak or ahve leaked and been 'fixed'. I have 1965 with the brass plugs, and they don't seem to be leaking, or I'm not checking them right. There was, however, a piece of what looked like very thick gasket material in the well under the plugs when I took my base plate off. Just laying there in the well like I woke it up from a long nap. didn't find any money or anything else in there, but was somewhat curious bout that piece of gasket, like someone might have put it in there and then put the base plate back on and clamped it down in hopes of maybe stopping a leak. I have no way of knowing, but it may be telling me I'm not checking the plugs for leaks right.
Hey, I may have found your "gasket" go here: 4mv parts Check out first pic on last row. "G658" the "well seal sponge" is that it?
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Old 09-19-2012, 10:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fasteddy_1947 View Post
On this leaking plugs, the book say that bout 100% before 1969 will leak or ahve leaked and been 'fixed'. I have 1965 with the brass plugs, and they don't seem to be leaking, or I'm not checking them right. There was, however, a piece of what looked like very thick gasket material in the well under the plugs when I took my base plate off. Just laying there in the well like I woke it up from a long nap. didn't find any money or anything else in there, but was somewhat curious bout that piece of gasket, like someone might have put it in there and then put the base plate back on and clamped it down in hopes of maybe stopping a leak. I have no way of knowing, but it may be telling me I'm not checking the plugs for leaks right.
The material you're seeing is a piece of rubbery foam that is supplied in most carb kits to supposedly stop the rear wells from leaking. They are a truly worthless addition to the carb kits that lasts long enough to 'get around the block' a few times before the leaks resume. More info here.


New on left, used, right. Pure junk.

Testing the wells for leaks by simply filling the float bowl might not show a leak. Sometimes the leak happens when the carb is hot. But if it's leaking hot, it'll most likely leak under pressure. So if I suspect a leaky well plug, I pressurize the wells and see if it'll make bubbles when sprayed w/a soapy water solution. No bubbles- no problem and move on.
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Old 09-19-2012, 10:47 AM
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"pressurize the wells" can you elaborate on this procedure?



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Originally Posted by cobalt327 View Post
The material you're seeing is a piece of rubbery foam that is supplied in most carb kits to supposedly stop the rear wells from leaking. They are a truly worthless addition to the carb kits that lasts long enough to 'get around the block' a few times before the leaks resume. More info here.


New on left, used, right. Pure junk.

Testing the wells for leaks by simply filling the float bowl might not show a leak. Sometimes the leak happens when the carb is hot. But if it's leaking hot, it'll most likely leak under pressure. So if I suspect a leaky well plug, I pressurize the wells and see if it'll make bubbles when sprayed w/a soapy water solution. No bubbles- no problem and move on.
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Old 09-19-2012, 11:27 AM
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"pressurize the wells" can you elaborate on this procedure?
Using a rubber tipped blow gun, put compressed air in through the hole where the primary jet goes. Plug off all other places where the air escapes. Do the same thing for the holes where the secondary rods sit (it is right over the rear plugs). You'll wish you had three or four hands for this!
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 09-19-2012, 07:08 PM
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Thanks. Too bad I don't have a air compressor.


[lQUOTE=cobalt327;1592039]Using a rubber tipped blow gun, put compressed air in through the hole where the primary jet goes. Plug off all other places where the air escapes. Do the same thing for the holes where the secondary rods sit (it is right over the rear plugs). You'll wish you had three or four hands for this![/QUOTE]
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 09-19-2012, 07:28 PM
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Hey, I may have found your "gasket" "G658" the "well seal sponge" is that it?
Missed this post earlier, but that's exactly what it is.
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 09-23-2012, 10:41 PM
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....man, I'm frustrated with reassembly because I can't seem to get the needle and float to go into place? Every time I try it's like the needle seat is way too far forward or something. That little crazy tiny wire hanger won't stay forward like the pictures say. The pivot rod seems a little weird is it supposed to be a little canted bent? I just don't get it. I worked on that thing for like 45 mins, finally gave up cause I was about to throw it all in the yard.

BTW, I used canned compressed air soapy water and found no leaks on those plugs so I'm not putting anything on them.
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 09-23-2012, 11:21 PM
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Geez, I'd already watched this before but I didn't listen. Around the 8:00 mark is when the float install happens. Not in the holes, just in the middle of it, and I had my pivot rod going right to left, his is left to right.

BTW, this guy cracks me up, but he know his Q-jets. He has some very indepth/informative videos.

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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 09-24-2012, 05:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by es79 View Post
Geez, I'd already watched this before but I didn't listen. Around the 8:00 mark is when the float install happens. Not in the holes, just in the middle of it, and I had my pivot rod going right to left, his is left to right.
Installing the needle clip into one of the holes instead of hanging it off the crosspiece nearest to the power piston has to be the most common mistake made at reassembly, hands down. So you are in good company in that regard! Some models of Q-jets don't have the holes in the crosspiece of the float, so they're easier to deal with for someone not used to the Q-jet carb.

BTW, in the past it was common practice to omit the clip altogether. But nowadays w/the crappy fuel, I wouldn't recommend it because the clip will physically lift the needle in the event the swill we pump into our tanks causes the needle to gum up or stick.

In my experience the hardest part of reassembly is aligning the primary metering rods into the jets when installing the power piston assembly. With the plastic baffle in place, the job is done by feel- there's just no way to see what you're doing. Then getting the airhorn onto the main body w/the gasket, power piston, and accelerator pump assembly fighting you isn't much fun either, but still not as bad as the metering rods/jets deal, IMHO.

The most often forgotten part when reassembling a Q-jet has to be the spring under the power piston, followed by the accelerator pump check ball.

One more spot to check carefully is the small rubber coated steel gasket that goes under the seat of the needle and seat assembly. Often the gasket bonds itself to the carb body and it isn't noticed. Then a second gasket is used on top of the old one.

Another sore spot is the roll pin that the accelerator pump arm pivots on. When removing the airhorn, the roll pin is often driven all the way inwards until it hits the lip that locates the air filter housing. Then a pair of diagonals are needed to lever the pin back out so a screwdriver can be slipped behind it to reattach the pump arm. Using care or a feeler gauge blade or other thin metal stock between the end of the roll pin and lip will make reassembly a lot easier.
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 09-24-2012, 10:37 AM
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Quote:
....The most often forgotten part when reassembling a Q-jet has to be the spring under the power piston, followed by the accelerator pump check ball.

One more spot to check carefully is the small rubber coated steel gasket that goes under the seat of the needle and seat assembly. Often the gasket bonds itself to the carb body and it isn't noticed. Then a second gasket is used on top of the old one....
Yes, sir! I'm on top of all that. Thanks for the reply. So used to not even worry about that tiny little wire hanger? You'd think they'd just drill us a hole in there to hole the dang thing.

...Now I can't wait to get off work, to get back to work........wait a minute, I mean have some fun. LOL!!

Quote:
Another sore spot is the roll pin that the accelerator pump arm pivots on. When removing the airhorn, the roll pin is often driven all the way inwards until it hits the lip that locates the air filter housing. Then a pair of diagonals are needed to lever the pin back out so a screwdriver can be slipped behind it to reattach the pump arm. Using care or a feeler gauge blade or other thin metal stock between the end of the roll pin and lip will make reassembly a lot easier.
Oh I know I read about that after I already dremeled mine off!! Good thing my kit has one in it, huh!
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 09-24-2012, 04:03 PM
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Oh I know I read about that after I already dremeled mine off!! Good thing my kit has one in it, huh!
No doubt! Sounds like you have it covered.

BTW, should the unthinkable happen and one of the ears that the roll pin goes into breaks off, there's a repair for it that will keep the carb working.

Quadrajet Accelerator Pump Arm Casting Repair
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 09-24-2012, 06:46 PM
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bite your tongue...I mean keyboard...if it can happen it's probably gonna happen to me. lol.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327 View Post
No doubt! Sounds like you have it covered.

BTW, should the unthinkable happen and one of the ears that the roll pin goes into breaks off, there's a repair for it that will keep the carb working.

Quadrajet Accelerator Pump Arm Casting Repair
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 09-25-2012, 12:19 AM
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Ok, Pretty much got her back together. Except for the long linkage that connects the choke pulloff to the secondary air doors. Not sure I got the link from the vent to the accelerator pump right but I'll research some pictures/video before freaking out too much. I can't wait till I get time to go put this back on my car. She is almost road worthy for the 2-hour trip home.
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