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Old 01-25-2013, 02:47 PM
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Questions for the hydraulic T/O brg pros....

This is my first hydraulic T/O brg install.....seems to have a LOT of instructions, measuring block to crank, bell to this & that, pressure plate to that....etc...which I think I understand.... but the sheet of instructions does not show where shims go? Are they behind the brg against the face of the tranny? Instructions indicate a tolerance of .150-.020 for play clearance...and it doesnt show WHERE this clearance is located? anyone else install one of these? It is a RAM clutch set, and RAM hyd. brg. Chevy 350, Muncie 4 speed....the brg cam with only 1 flex hyd line? but there are two fittings for feed, and for bleed...why onky 1 line supplied?
Lastly, do I need to have the clutch master and pedal all hookked up in order to install this brg and clutch assembly?
thanks as always!

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Old 01-25-2013, 07:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 31ROC View Post
This is my first hydraulic T/O brg install.....seems to have a LOT of instructions, measuring block to crank, bell to this & that, pressure plate to that....etc...which I think I understand.... but the sheet of instructions does not show where shims go? Are they behind the brg against the face of the tranny? Instructions indicate a tolerance of .150-.020 for play clearance...and it doesnt show WHERE this clearance is located? anyone else install one of these? It is a RAM clutch set, and RAM hyd. brg. Chevy 350, Muncie 4 speed....the brg cam with only 1 flex hyd line? but there are two fittings for feed, and for bleed...why onky 1 line supplied?
Lastly, do I need to have the clutch master and pedal all hookked up in order to install this brg and clutch assembly?
thanks as always!
It would make sense that the shim goes between the trans face and the bearing mount/flange. It could also install between the bearing and the bearing mount. I dont know what it looks like so I cant say for sure. Maybe post a pic of the parts.
The clearance is between the clutch cover fingers and the bearing face, with the pressure plate installed and torqued down, so fingers on pressure plate are at installed height.
1 line -- pressure in and pressure out- (depressed pedal -released pedal)
Bleed line is just that...an extension of the bleeder fitting, extended to give access with the slave installed, in case of loss of prime and for first time install.
You can mock up the clutch and slave and set up the clearance at the bearing and install the trans. Be sure the hydraulic line is installed for the master, or at least that you will be able to install it at the time the trans is put in. Good Luck
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Old 01-26-2013, 05:48 AM
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LATECH...great information and thanks!
I have one last question---when you say go ahead and "mock up" the clutch and "set up the brg clearance", not sure what you mean?
Install pressure plate and disc onto flywheel? do you want this assembly on them motor? if so, if I slide the brg onto the tranny I would have to install the bell and install the tranny onto the bell, how would I get to the clearance gap in order to measure?
OR..........do I slide brg onto tranny, then slide clutch PP & disc onto tranny then measure?

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rookie
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Old 01-26-2013, 04:30 PM
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So, I figure out shims go behind the brg..(DUH),and I am in the opposite direction for needing shims.... but no matter how I try following the RAM instructions, I cant come up with the recommended .015-.020 clearance between the brg face and pressure plate fingers. UNLESS I shim the bellhousing away from the tranny a bit....anyone ever done this?
maybe because I have a lakewood bell instead od stock bell? Maybe its that much shorter enough tom throw it off?
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Old 01-26-2013, 04:37 PM
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Shims in the bell may be what needs to happen.Or get the bearing mount flange surfaced down.
Not sure how much can be machined off, but you can also machine the flywheel .015 to get the same amount.There are several places to gain some clearance. Just need to decide where to take it as to whats available to you readily.
If you shim the bell you should use a shim that outlines the botl pattern on the bell for strength. Kind of like fords shim plate between engine and trans.
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Old 01-26-2013, 06:15 PM
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so I need to make a shim same shape as the front of the tranny then, yes? Your think a few thousands of inch just at the bolt holes would not be good?
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Old 01-26-2013, 06:23 PM
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You could use feeler gauges (or shim stock) to bolt (gently) between the trans and engine at 4 spots to get the desired thickness measurement,(checking clearnace at the TO Bear) then obtain a piece of aluminum sheet (very easy to cut with shears) with the thickness that you have determined is correct and make a pattern on it, then cut it and install.
You can transfer the pattern to the aluminum with a scribe , lay the aluminum against the bell, and lay it on the work bench, scribe the outline and the bolt holes and the dowel holes. Drill the holes and cut with a good sharp set of shears.
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Old 01-26-2013, 06:32 PM
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Be sure to de burr and smooth the edges off the shim plate as when you work on the car later you dont want to get cut on it by rubbing across it when reaching into the area to perform a task.
Safety first.
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Old 01-26-2013, 06:55 PM
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Excellent idea! Thanks again!
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Old 01-27-2013, 02:14 PM
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OK...so embarassment has set in.........
Got up today, to start all over with this flipping hyd T/O brg, only to read the instructions for the 47th time.....guess it takes 47 times to realize, its not a tolerance of .015-.020 for clearance, ITS .150--.200 !!!!
That being said, the shim for the tranny to bell has increased significantly!
But took your advice, went to Lowes and picked up some aluminum flat stock and made two "tranny width" shims....installed, re-measured (48th time), and waalaa, I am now at .177---right in the middle of said tolerance!
I guess repeated usage of Dewars White Label may cause failure to read instructions correctly....
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