questions on painting
Hello Hotrodders, I have a few questions about painting a 85 chevy shortbed pickup. My 15 y/o son and I have a 1985 chevy short bed pickup. We got it with the front clip in the bed and the engine in pieces. Since then we have put it all back together and running good, with the help from hotrodders(doublevision and cobalt327). The question I have is we are now getting some of the rust repaired and going to paint ourselves. This is our 1st time to paint a car but, I have painted other small projects in the past just not a car. We are going to due a complete paint job inside and out with under rail spray in bed liner. When we prep the car to paint what is the best way to prep under the hood insulation, inside the cab and between door jambs? It seems impossible to sand old paint off of doors in the jamb area due to peeling and small amounts of rust under hood? How can we accomplish this the easiest and most economical way? My son is 15 and loves older american made vehicles. He knows so much about 1966's to present year cars. This is not just his 1st truck, but a way that we spend time and bond together. We now got his little brother involved and away from the video games. They drive up and down our private road together like they are so cool. Any help would be aprreciated. Adrian
I usually do door jambs and undersides of hoods with
3M Scotchbrite pads.
I use a red one if I'm going to prime over it,
If I'm not priming it, I use a gray one (finer scratches)
I usually wash and scrub real good useing Dawn dish soap
on the pad. Sometimes I'll use Ajax cleanser but always a final
wash with Dawn, dry real good and it's ready for paint.
For a more durable finish, I'll use a seal coat before paint
of reduced epoxy (50/50) before base or urethane. :pimp:
Thanks for the info. I am going to try and paint the truck base coat clear coat urethane. Do you think if I paint the engine compartment, under hood, and inside of cab with just a one stage urethane that matches, would that be okay or should I use the base coat/clear as well. I'm just trying to save a little money and steps.
questions on painting
Jcclark, what is a seal coat of 50/50 epoxy? Is that primer? Does it help fill blimishes in body work? Also we did some body work on a few dents and rust under rear fenders. When we sprayed it with sandable primer we got in a can from auto parts we can see the body filler a little through the primer. I was wondering if the paint covers this or do we need to do more prep work. We used 80 grit to take paint and primer off and then we used 180 to get out the scratches. Then, we put the filler on and rough sanded again with 100 grit and then used 180 again. I know we need to go over the whole thing again probably with 400 to get out the scratches. What should be the final grit? I was thinking 1000 but not sure. I feel like we feathered the filler in pretty good. We are trying to get the bed completely done before we start on the cab, then the front. This is the reason we are waiting to do a final sanding so we can concentrate on the whole bed with a finer grit. Is this a good way to attack the paint job for 2 begginers?
Regular epoxy primer can be used as a seal coat right before painting.
It's the best sealer out there.
Mix the epoxy as normal and then reduce it 25 to 50%.
Check the tech sheet for your epoxy, most are the same.
You can spray a couple reduced coats and only have to wait about
an hour before you can paint over it.
I do that a lot because I have white and black epoxy and can mix
a shade that helps on coverage for different colors of paint.
It also helps eliminate scratches and greatly improoves adhesion.
I start sanding filler with 80 grit and finish with 150.
that's fine when going to cover with full strength 2k primer.
I sand primer with 600.
400 grit is usually enough to paint over, I recommend 600 just to
be safe, some colors like silver can show scratches if not enough
is applied. (400 is border line but most get away with it.)
Going any finer is not better or needed.
The primer in cans should be avoided, 1K products like that continue to
shrink long after applied. They rely on air drying, unlike 2K products that
use an activator and chemically cure. :thumbup:
I was wondering about the type of paint to use under the hood, engine compartment and inside of cab and door jambs. I am going to use base coat clear but on the other areas thinking about using no clear coat to save some time and money. Any thoughts on this idea? Thanks Adrian
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