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Old 07-13-2012, 08:39 AM
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Questions for pro painters

I haven't painted in a few years. From 2000 till 2005 I worked in a collision shop and painted professionally. I going to get back into doing some paint on my own projects. My question/deliema is that I was never really satisfied with my clear results. I never got it as flat as I wanted little to much orange peel looked good on some cars but not up to snuff on higher end cars with better factory paint. Not real sure what I was doing wrong. I sprayed with a satajet 2000 digital with 1.4 tip used exclusively for clear. We used nason 497 4-1 reduced 10% or so. Air pressure 10-12 psi at air cap. It would lay flatter at higher pressure but wasted lots of material so I'd keep it a 10psi. With this gun should I have used a smaller tip? What do you guys think I could've been doing wrong I never had a reject but I could always see it maybe I was just being a perfectionist, but I would like to learn from my mistakes. Thanks for your insite.

Kris.

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Old 07-13-2012, 09:11 AM
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It's probably cause you're painter like me and really notice it. Most people don't notice orange peel and all they care about is for "shiny" paint.
I know old school painter who still paints with conventional paint guns and doesn't like HVLP. His paint jobs come out nice and clear lays flat. However he does show cars so he still sands/buffs his paint jobs.
If you take a look at newer cars they're orange peely from the factory. Some are worse than the others. You can really notice it on darker colors.
Maybe play a bit with your gun setup and add extra reducer. Maybe try using slower reducer so that it has time to flow out.
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Old 07-13-2012, 09:50 AM
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I have the same gun and a few things to note and before I start, It is my favorite clear gun, I like it better then the 3000 and 4000.

Proper adjustment is .
90% wide fan, so it don't blow out in center.
2.5 turns out on the fluid adjustment.
Gun is made to hold 5-6 inches from panel 8 won't work well at all.
Make sure you do not have the internal strainer in the gun. NEVER.

If all this seems like a bunch of bull, then the MOST important thing to do on that gun is make sure the Wall regulator is as high as it will go, min 125 for a 25' hose. 140 for a 50' hose.

Regulator at the gun should be for clear with the trigger pulled 26-34 pounds and that depends on you plumbing from compressor.
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Old 07-13-2012, 11:25 AM
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To clarify I'm not a painter anymore just. Hobbyist learned that I make more money as a pro welder. Barry K when you say 26-34 at the gun with trigger pulled do you mean on the dig micrometer in the gun? How many cfm should I have for this gun I might need a new compressor mine is a 5 hp 60 gallon. What gun would you suggest for mettallic bases and candies. I no longer have a base gun. Thanks again.
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Old 07-13-2012, 11:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 10Tonhammer View Post
To clarify I'm not a painter anymore just. Hobbyist learned that I make more money as a pro welder. Barry K when you say 26-34 at the gun with trigger pulled do you mean on the dig micrometer in the gun? How many cfm should I have for this gun I might need a new compressor mine is a 5 hp 60 gallon. What gun would you suggest for mettallic bases and candies. I no longer have a base gun. Thanks again.
Yes, I'm sorry use the digital gage.

Not sure the scfm rating but they are scfm hogs, same gun adjustment and 80 lbs at wall vs 140 will totally change the way the gun sprays, leaving everything adjusted the same on the gun.

Your compressor will do good on a side of car and then you may need to let it catch up.

Basecoat turn in fluid 1/2 turn and air will be 20-24 depending on base, color and plumbing from compressor.
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Old 07-17-2012, 05:29 AM
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Nason clears are low end and tough to get looking really good out of the gun ..even for those of us that know all about the gun...I've used plenty of it and never liked it either...What you need is a different clear...
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Old 07-17-2012, 06:06 AM
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Yeah, Like Barry K's (SPI) Universial Clear
Flows out like glass if shot properly
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Old 07-18-2012, 11:33 AM
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Kinda figured it had to do partly with the clear, but I hate to blame materials when it is more likely technique. I did a 67 chevelle and used a higher end DuPont clear with much better results. Though I always figured I was doing something wrong and the results I was getting were good enough for 95% of the work I did. I just absolutely hate "good enough". Do you like the spi products better than DuPont? I have always had good luck with DuPont but they're a bit pricey. 200-250 per sprayable gallon seems high.
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Old 07-18-2012, 12:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 10Tonhammer View Post
Kinda figured it had to do partly with the clear, but I hate to blame materials when it is more likely technique. I did a 67 chevelle and used a higher end DuPont clear with much better results. Though I always figured I was doing something wrong and the results I was getting were good enough for 95% of the work I did. I just absolutely hate "good enough". Do you like the spi products better than DuPont? I have always had good luck with DuPont but they're a bit pricey. 200-250 per sprayable gallon seems high.
You could give me Dupont for free, and I still wouldn't shoot it.
Was Pro PPG for over 35 years, tried SPI 7 years ago and never looked back.
Now runnin around 250 but 2 gals rts.
Here's a couple I've done with SPI
They had to be better than "GoodEnuf"
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Old 07-18-2012, 05:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 10Tonhammer View Post
Kinda figured it had to do partly with the clear, but I hate to blame materials when it is more likely technique. I did a 67 chevelle and used a higher end DuPont clear with much better results. Though I always figured I was doing something wrong and the results I was getting were good enough for 95% of the work I did. I just absolutely hate "good enough". Do you like the spi products better than DuPont? I have always had good luck with DuPont but they're a bit pricey. 200-250 per sprayable gallon seems high.
the first time I used Glasurat I absoultly loved it ,man,it flowed out like glass.I layed it down like glass and it just flowed out even slicker within 5 min. but that was at a high end shop with mostly high end europian sports cars and the shop bought it..This shop had one of the best booths I ever saw so there was almost no trash and all you had to do was nib 1-2 little pieces of trash,I really hated to touch my first paint job there with sand paper just for a little piece of trash that no one would ever notice but it had to be done to get the level the owner expected...well I couldnt believe how easy it was to buff it took less than 5 min it buffed out like butter....
before that I was using Dupont Chroma clear ,it sprayed great and layed down slick too but the buffing was a bit of a chore but way easier than PPG's clear at that time which was 2021 or 2112or something like that I hated that stuff...
Anyways for the past 15 yrs I've been using Chroma clear it was around 150. a gal..untill maybe 6-7 yrs ago when I tried this new clear I never heard of ,on the word of a guy I knew that sold me supplies at a discount.Well as soon as I started spraying I thought it was Glasurat the way it sprayed and flowed out even better within 5 min...I couldnt wait to buff it and when I did I thought it WAS Glasurat but in a different can....and at a much ,much lower price,at the time I think it was 150. but you got two sprayable gallons compared to Duponts 5 quarts (sprayable) at 130. I started using it exclusively ,On EVERYTHING ,the high end stuff as well as the every day collision work.....The name of that clear is SPI universal clear...and I havent used dupont Chrome clear ever since..5-7 yrs....The last time I used any PPG clear was over 20 yrs ago....I'm hooked on SPI It's the very best as far as I'm concerned and thier epoxy primer also stands out way above all the others too..
I've got over 35 yrs in this business so if that means anything at all ....try some...let us know what you think...
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