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Old 08-29-2013, 07:23 AM
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quik question on glassing. floors

I have some pin holes in my floor ..a number of them..but not enough that i can't glass up Anew floor is ridiculously priced from different vendors. The floor has white epoxy primer. I was going to rough it up with 80 grit and start laying the glass over the pinholes. The floor is super strong as is. . so what is your verdict on this idea. i used to use the standard lite weight mat, back in the 60s. Has a better way come along, on this glassing procedure? this kar won't see the Rd; 2 or 300 miles each summer ....if that. any help greatly appreciated bob

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Old 08-29-2013, 07:31 AM
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I'm not a big fan of doing it that way, I do prefer replacing the metal but, if you must glass up the floor, use a mat and resin...I don't think that the technology has changed that much over the years but, I'm sure that if it has, somebody will chime in with stellar advice.

Was the floor sand blasted and then Epoxy primed or cleaned up and Epoxy primed? If it was merely sanded and most of the rust removed, it will come back...no mater how much Epoxy primer or how much fiberglass you use.

Ray
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Old 08-29-2013, 08:02 AM
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I agree w/69. Not ideal, but if it isn't a show car and the 'glass isn't going to be a structural element (door post mount)... go for it.
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Old 08-29-2013, 08:12 AM
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Rather then 'glassing I would sand blast the rusted area's clean, prime with a self-etching primer (overkill I know but we are looking for a tenacious BITE here) and fill the pinholes with 3M Body Shutz or Seam Sealer. Getting rid of the rust is MANDATORY for longevity and using seam sealer, instead of fiber glass, lets the panel breath and move around without delaminating the 'glass, as it eventually will...
The seam sealer is easier to "hide" also as it doesn't have to be very thick to do the job. Work it though all of the holes and smooth inside and out. Doing that will lock the sealer in place and it will work for a long time.
Mark
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Old 08-29-2013, 08:22 AM
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Good advice Mark but, I have a question? Wouldn't the seam sealer method depend on how many rust pin holes there are? I assume and I know that's not always a good idea but, if there are rust pin holes the integrity of the metal could be questionable, no matter how strong it feels now. The other thing I would ask is wouldn't Epoxy be a better primer for either method, fiberglass or seam sealer? The reason I suggest this is that if he was to sand blast the floor and re-prime it, using an Epoxy with in the open window time frame he could either seam seal or glass the floor and both would have better adhesion than going over etch primer. I believe etch primer has it's place, I use it on small burn through's in primer...for large areas, I prefer a quality Epoxy...

Just my opinion

Ray
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Old 08-29-2013, 08:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 69 widetrack View Post
Good advice Mark but, I have a question? Wouldn't the seam sealer method depend on how many rust pin holes there are? I assume and I know that's not always a good idea but, if there are rust pin holes the integrity of the metal could be questionable, no matter how strong it feels now. The other thing I would ask is wouldn't Epoxy be a better primer for either method, fiberglass or seam sealer? The reason I suggest this is that if he was to sand blast the floor and re-prime it, using an Epoxy with in the open window time frame he could either seam seal or glass the floor and both would have better adhesion than going over etch primer. I believe etch primer has it's place, I use it on small burn through's in primer...for large areas, I prefer a quality Epoxy...

Just my opinion

Ray
Right on all accounts Ray. Metal integrity is important and IF there is anything more then a few pinholes I would simply replace that piece of the floor with steel. We'll leave that up to the OP as we can't see what he is working with.
I do like the etch primer for doing this kind of work. It has a very tenacious "chemical" bite over sand blasted steel which is why I would use it in place of the epoxies "mechanical" bite. If I was doing body work over it I would bury it with a good epoxy but, in this case, it's not necessary.
And, if you have ever used a good seam sealer, you know that **** sticks to EVERYTHING!!!
Mark
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Old 08-29-2013, 09:04 AM
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LOL...I have been known to overdo things...just my nature...I used 2 X 8 studs, 4 inches apart in my daughter's Barbie Doll house....LOL.

I have used and do use 3M's seam sealer and it does stick very well. Your also right that we don't know exactly what the OP is working with, I just have never used etch primer on an area that big.

Ray
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Old 08-29-2013, 09:10 AM
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Along the lines of a flexible sealer. Y'know that stuff in a rattle can that they spray on a rowboat made with a screen door on the bottom? It's at Lowes. I'd test it first
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Old 08-29-2013, 09:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 69 widetrack View Post
Good advice Mark but, I have a question? Wouldn't the seam sealer method depend on how many rust pin holes there are? I assume and I know that's not always a good idea but, if there are rust pin holes the integrity of the metal could be questionable, no matter how strong it feels now. The other thing I would ask is wouldn't Epoxy be a better primer for either method, fiberglass or seam sealer? The reason I suggest this is that if he was to sand blast the floor and re-prime it, using an Epoxy with in the open window time frame he could either seam seal or glass the floor and both would have better adhesion than going over etch primer. I believe etch primer has it's place, I use it on small burn through's in primer...for large areas, I prefer a quality Epoxy...

Just my opinion

Ray

The whole Kar was sandblasted .EVERYWHERE. Then this blaster sprays an epoxy white ppg primer shop coat. This primer is not reccomended for paint....ONLY because it can show pin spots under quality overcoat.
You that are in favor of metal .......I have built a ton of ground up kars finished everyone. [kustom kars and street rods.'] And at my age sucking my wallet dry, .only to pull it out for the sake of, saying MY KAR IS ALL patch panels meaning i did it right!just doesn't matter anymore. Anything at this point, that i would do with you guys,. helps me in repairing minor pin holes is a good thing This kar will be on the rd, as far as quality .............long after i'm gone .i'd venture to say. With todays spray undercoats , and applying glass properly, i think sanding glass and coating it both sides. nobodys going to condemn what they don't see.

As far as using JUST sealants in the holes, pretty soon, won't they dry hard and crack+ fall out? .
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Old 08-29-2013, 10:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bsa_bob View Post
As far as using JUST sealants in the holes, pretty soon, won't they dry hard and crack+ fall out? .
Okay, so you know how to fix the floor correctly... weld in a panel. If you want to use the 'glass, go for it, it's a lot more work then my method but, if you have the time...
3M's seam sealer does not dry out or crack. If you have done ANY work on a GM car you will know getting that stuff out of the seams is next to impossible without a torch to burn it out... The seam sealer will work great. Again, as long as you have only pinholes and no thin spots to oilcan...Bury it in undercoating if you must but it's not necessary if you have a well prepped surface and shoot a good paint over the top when you are done.
Mark
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Old 08-29-2013, 10:52 AM
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Thank you Mark !and you other guys, these 5 thru 7 chevy repair panels seem to be unusually hi. compared to the other make early chevies, chevelles camaros etc.I am putting both rear qiuarters on this car. at $1600.00 undelivered .......it makes one think twice bob s
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Old 08-29-2013, 11:50 AM
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You're welcome Bob! What eaxactly are you working on, I don't see it in your post.
I see you are in Britton, MI. I am about an hour and a half or so north of you in Byron...
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Old 08-29-2013, 12:21 PM
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i've used fiberglass on holes and pinholes in floors with good results
rust treat it (wire brush) por15 on top of that, 5 layers of fiberglass and your good to go
nothing i would do to a show car, but it works and has held up for 12 years on my son's elcamino dd
tape the bottom of any holes or you'll have resin all over the shop floor and resin stalactites hanging under the car

and i'm an hour ne of you
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Old 08-29-2013, 02:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ogre View Post
i've used fiberglass on holes and pinholes in floors with good results
rust treat it (wire brush) por15 on top of that, 5 layers of fiberglass and your good to go
nothing i would do to a show car, but it works and has held up for 12 years on my son's elcamino dd
tape the bottom of any holes or you'll have resin all over the shop floor and resin stalactites hanging under the car

and i'm an hour ne of you

i am 9 miles do west of dundee mich.both of you guys are close to me what a Coincedence aayy? oger and astroracer.i have three finished kars that i did the correct way.but this 55 2-dr sedan.....well it maybe the one that the "old guy" never finished. All kidding aside. I am going to finish this 55 /its along ways from the kars i am used to working on, and you tend to get rusty in your knowlege ..this 55 being the first build in 12 years or close . my last was my 50 merc.I work on this stuff in the winter months most of the time.take care~~ and thank you much~~ for your help. bob s ~~~~~~~~~streetrodder of the year in 1983 in autorama.
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Old 08-29-2013, 07:50 PM
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and I am in Kalamazoo, MI.

Just for the sake of clarification, which 3M seam sealer are we talking about here? I can show you some (1k) 3M seam sealer which most definitely does crack. I only use 2k seam sealer anymore...been using Pliogrip but both 3M and Pliogrip will fit in the Pliogrip gun.
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