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Old 10-23-2002, 11:35 AM
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Post Radiator cooling fan??

HEY:I have a 350 with mild cam and header in a 1938 Lafayette compartment ( tight). I am running a mechanical flex fan 100% of the time. I have a electric in front for extra push in traffic. I still get hot after about twenty minutes. Some are saying ditch the flex fan and go 100% electric??????? some are saying use a shroud??? Anyone having good experence one way?? What about adding an oil cooler?? Open to any ideas or experence.???? Dave E Shank

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Old 10-23-2002, 05:07 PM
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Frist of all get a shroud. next question, are you over heating on the highway or traffic? on the highway your fan doesn't do any good.
What cfm is your elec fan?
On my 34 chevy i'm running just a flex fan and running 185 temp.
The main question is did the overheating just begain or has it been that way from the start?
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Old 10-23-2002, 06:02 PM
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Awsom: It has always wanted to overheat when not getting moving air flow. I am running a 160 degree thermostat with 40 BELOW cooling additive which seemed to help. I am not sure what CFM the electric add on is. It is mounted about two inches away from front of raditator because of mounting frame. Have you heard of any luck using the shiny shroud that JC Whintey sells. I am wondering the benefit of going all electric and eliminating the flex fan?? Any ideas?? DAVE E SHANK
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Old 10-23-2002, 06:57 PM
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Your gonna save about 20 horsepower just by ditching the Mech. fan. make sure you are installing the electric puller fan as close to the rad. as possible.(fan as close as 1/4 away for best results. If this doesn't work and you are sure the cooling system up to the job than using a fan from a 90-92 Olds silluette mini van is the cheapest way to increase cfm. Look for the 240 watt version. It will pull nearly 1800 cfm.
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Old 10-24-2002, 02:31 PM
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A fan shroud will make a world of difference. I don't get excited by flex fans. The shroud will create a venturi effect that will make a wind tunnel out of the shroud. You need to pull fresh air through the cooling tubes so that the heat in the coolant will be dissipated. Without a shroud much of the tunnel effect is lost around the perimeter of the radiator. Much of the pulling effect will take place around the radiator rather than through it. Another little technique for running cooler is to run straight distilled water as your coolant and add a rust inhibitor to the mix. Wintertime is different , depending on your climate, but the motor can operate much cooler without antifreeze. Antifreeze actually causes the motor to run hotter. Antifreeze only raises the boiling point of the liquid and lowers the freezing point. Many motors run 20 degrees hotter because of the antifreeze.
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Old 10-24-2002, 03:37 PM
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[quote]Originally posted by Dave E Shank:
<strong>Awsom: It has always wanted to overheat when not getting moving air flow. I am running a 160 degree thermostat with 40 BELOW cooling additive which seemed to help. I am not sure what CFM the electric add on is. It is mounted about two inches away from front of raditator because of mounting frame. Have you heard of any luck using the shiny shroud that JC Whintey sells. I am wondering the benefit of going all electric and eliminating the flex fan?? Any ideas?? DAVE E SHANK</strong><hr></blockquote>

Overheating is a combination of factors as a general rule, not just 1 thing.

1) always use preformed hoses, not the universal flex hoses. Take a piece of coat hanger, make a pattern and find a hose like the pattern. Always use a bottom hose with the spring in it to reduce risk of the hose closeing up and stopping flow.

2) run as large a mechanical fan as possible with lots of deflection..... Summit sells "stock car fans...15, 16, 17 " and more.

3) a shroud will help.

4) the timing may be too high....or off.

5) always use a distributor with a vaccum advance.

6) the carb may be too lean (the jetting)

7) Sometimes a too low themostat does not let the water stay in the radiator long enough to cool....move up to at least a 180 (I always use 195..with no problems)

8) Better water pump. Flow Kooler plate installed on the water impeller can reduce temps by 30 degrees. Edelbrock has a super good aluminum pump ($150 or so)

All of this still requires a good radiator with cooling ability for a 350.
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