[lil-vulky]

im just trying to clear some things up to ease my paranoia, do i have a cracked head or head gasket?

when i fill my radiator up after a few mins it all pours back out the cap like its under pressure . . . also when i put the cap on start the engine for like 2 mins and when i go to take the cap off water squirts out but its not hot water its still the cold water . . . am i doing something wrong or have a got a leak somewhere so its getting pressurized. . . . the oil is clean and the spark plugs have no sign of water exhausts have no sign of water and intake has no sign of water.

[vinniekq2]

if you have an exhaust sniffer you can use it to determine if the pressure is from burnt gas.It will not tell you where the leak is,IE: gasket or crack

[lil-vulky]

Originally Posted by vinniekq2

if you have an exhaust sniffer you can use it to determine if the pressure is from burnt gas.It will not tell you where the leak is,IE: gasket or crack

Thanks,
ill see if the mechanic down the road has one i can borrow

[Camaro_Nut2001]

It could be an air lock. Is this a fresh motor or did you just notice it was low on water and wanted to add some? If it were mine, and it was a fresh rebuild, I would fill it up through the thermostat opening in the intake until coolant starts coming out of the radiator. I also drill an 1/8th inch hole in all my thermostats, everything I own, daily drivers etc... I hope it turns out to be just an air lock. Good luck.

[hcompton]

Well is it the pump just pushing it out. It does that if the cap is not on. Got to run it some to get the air gaps out but it should always be pushing water into the radiator if its running and the thermostat is open. did you forget to install the thermostat.

If its just pushing small amounts of water. It should be fine. Lots of water major issue. But heads gaskets usally blow by the cap if its bad.

[oldbogie]

Originally Posted by lil-vulky

im just trying to clear some things up to ease my paranoia, do i have a cracked head or head gasket?

when i fill my radiator up after a few mins it all pours back out the cap like its under pressure . . . also when i put the cap on start the engine for like 2 mins and when i go to take the cap off water squirts out but its not hot water its still the cold water . . . am i doing something wrong or have a got a leak somewhere so its getting pressurized. . . . the oil is clean and the spark plugs have no sign of water exhausts have no sign of water and intake has no sign of water.

Did you replace the water pump just before this problem started?

Bogie

[lil-vulky]

Originally Posted by oldbogie

Did you replace the water pump just before this problem started?

Bogie

i got the car and havn't really had it running since iv got it had to get alot of things done so slowly just getting it going but i have put a new water pump on it, i have just taken out the thermostat to try eliminate air blockage, hopefully now when it wont do it. . . if it does i duno what it could be, going to flush the cooling system and everything before i refill.

also not sure if this matters but all the extra water lines/hoses like heater hoses etc have just been blocked off with bolts would that have any effect? i can't hook them up because no heater core in car so they permantly going to be blocked off. also is there special bolts that will bolt onto where these outlets are so i dont have to have a hose with a bolt in . . . kinda looks half *** with jst a cut hose and bolt lol

[Camaro_Nut2001]

Originally Posted by lil-vulky

i got the car and havn't really had it running since iv got it had to get alot of things done so slowly just getting it going but i have put a new water pump on it, i have just taken out the thermostat to try eliminate air blockage, hopefully now when it wont do it. . . if it does i duno what it could be, going to flush the cooling system and everything before i refill.

also not sure if this matters but all the extra water lines/hoses like heater hoses etc have just been blocked off with bolts would that have any effect? i can't hook them up because no heater core in car so they permantly going to be blocked off. also is there special bolts that will bolt onto where these outlets are so i dont have to have a hose with a bolt in . . . kinda looks half *** with jst a cut hose and bolt lol

You can get brass or steel NPT plugs at the hardware or some auto parts stores to plug them and no it's not gonna hurt a thing with them plugged. I would make sure they didn't sell you a reverse flowing water pump right off the bat but it sure does sound like air to me. Good luck.

[oldbogie]

Originally Posted by lil-vulky

i got the car and havn't really had it running since iv got it had to get alot of things done so slowly just getting it going but i have put a new water pump on it, i have just taken out the thermostat to try eliminate air blockage, hopefully now when it wont do it. . . if it does i duno what it could be, going to flush the cooling system and everything before i refill.

also not sure if this matters but all the extra water lines/hoses like heater hoses etc have just been blocked off with bolts would that have any effect? i can't hook them up because no heater core in car so they permantly going to be blocked off. also is there special bolts that will bolt onto where these outlets are so i dont have to have a hose with a bolt in . . . kinda looks half *** with jst a cut hose and bolt lol

Is the new water pump correct for the style of belt drive, many serpentine belt systems rotate the pump backwards to Vbelt systems and the pumps are not well identified you are dependant upon the correct pump being in the correct box 'cause that's got the only label. If the pump is backwards for the drive it will attempt to pump coolant into the return at the manifold while trying to suck it out of the block to fill the suction side (lower hose) of the radiator.

Lacking a heater it would be better to install a loop of heater hose that connects the pressure source which is a fitting just on the engine side of the return before the thermostat and route this to the heater hose connection on the pump. Then when the thermostat is closed the coolant will bypass back to the inlet side of the pump, passages are internal to the pump beyond the hose connection. Actually the pressure side may come off the back of the intake manifold and may return to the suction side radiator tank or even into a T fitting in the big suction hose between the radiator and pump. Different brands, years, models do these arraingements differently so I'm shotgunning ideas about what you might be looking at.

Heater routing often includes fittings for 1/2 inch to 5/8ths hose or 5/8ths to 3/4 inch hose so once you know what hose size fits what fittings you can get an adapter at the parts store to make it easy to connect different size hoses to gether without forcing things to fit.

Bogie

[cliff tate]

Originally Posted by oldbogie

Is the new water pump correct for the style of belt drive, many serpentine belt systems rotate the pump backwards to Vbelt systems and the pumps are not well identified you are dependant upon the correct pump being in the correct box 'cause that's got the only label. If the pump is backwards for the drive it will attempt to pump coolant into the return at the manifold while trying to suck it out of the block to fill the suction side (lower hose) of the radiator.

Lacking a heater it would be better to install a loop of heater hose that connects the pressure source which is a fitting just on the engine side of the return before the thermostat and route this to the heater hose connection on the pump. Then when the thermostat is closed the coolant will bypass back to the inlet side of the pump, passages are internal to the pump beyond the hose connection. Actually the pressure side may come off the back of the intake manifold and may return to the suction side radiator tank or even into a T fitting in the big suction hose between the radiator and pump. Different brands, years, models do these arraingements differently so I'm shotgunning ideas about what you might be looking at.

Heater routing often includes fittings for 1/2 inch to 5/8ths hose or 5/8ths to 3/4 inch hose so once you know what hose size fits what fittings you can get an adapter at the parts store to make it easy to connect different size hoses to gether without forcing things to fit.

Bogie

the rad is pluged or to small for aplication,ther should be verry little temp diference top tank to botem if over heating is the case. if water is cold coming out the cap,it is restricted going threw.

[lil-vulky]

iv got a brand new big alloy radiator only just been filled, which way is the correct way for the water to run? because atm its going from the bottom hose around the radiator to the top hose, is this right? i jst just taken my thermostat out and it seems to be better im still sorta paranoid though because the water does rise slowly but nothing like before . . . . and what im annoyed about is the guy that sold it to me completely lied and bull**** and he never had a waterpump belt on and he had it running lots not sure how long he had it running but he never even told me it needed a belt so he might of over heated it and cracked a head or gasket . . . . here is a video of it running

460bb v8 jaguar xj6 - YouTube

460bb v8 jaguar xj6 - YouTube

around how long can u run an engine without the waterpump running before it will overheat and cause damage? i had it running for about 1min tops before i noticed no belt but previous owner was all **** but i seen he posted heaps of videos of it running so i dont trust a word he says

[hcompton]

1 min should be fine. I cant see that hurting anything. I had a 327 that would toss the belt off all the time. Risisted all efforts to run the v belts at 7k rpm. Lost a few in the beginning runs and it got hot but didnt kill it. That was at the track hammering it. Real issue is no water once the water boils off its toast. Up until then its an evape system. Hot engine will boil gallons of water off in 50 miles so we use radiators but older cars just let it boil off and refilled the. They were built alot looser than todays engine but same thing applies water does not let the engine get but so hot until its all gone.

[lil-vulky]

Thanks that ease a tad of my paranoina, cant wait for my gauges to arrive then i can actually hook up a water temp and let the car run and see how hot it actually gets. then i need to get driveshaft redone and get a b&m trans shifter and linkage kit and it will be driveable . . .minus brakes but there next on my list want to double check the trans isn't stuffed first because the guy had no trans oil had linkage stuck in first gear when i got it so when he had it running would of been trying to drive with no fluid

[vinniekq2]

sounds like you bought a can or worms

[lil-vulky]

pretty much was not happy at all, first i brought a 1978 lincoln limo one of the very last full sized ones, was told needs a tire for a wof . . . next thing i know was written off with rust and structual rust, took him to court he stil never ended up refunding my money even after court. still trying to get my money back a year later for it.

this guy i told him i dont want to be lied to and made it quite clear, even got multiple people to view the car, fully lied to our faces went to pickup the car hes taken half the stuff off it and was a complete mess. also refused to give my money back. but ill take him to court if it doesnt work out as planned. dont want to have a car sitting doing nothing for a year while i wait for court so im just going to fix and if it fails a wof on any given thing that isnt fixable i'll be taking him to court for what i paid for it + everything i spent on it. still kept everything from him telling me it only needed a driveshaft for a wof and it was all certed etc etc etc but im trying be positive, once i get it going and moving im hoping its going to be worth my time and money providing its grunty as hell sounds mint and goes mint id be happy, if its gutless piece ill be not happy. been googling videos of 460 fords doing skids to try and ease my mind that its going to be a beast but yeah sort of having doubts about how good its actually going to be . . . .