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Since the rad. is very easy to remove I would take it to a rad. shop and have them rod & core it or use whatever flush system is needed. I wouldn't flush all the scale and rust that's in the block into the rad., would cause more problems that it would solve. If you google "flush engine block" there's all kinds of info.
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The heater core in my Dakota plugged up, I used a Prestone flush kit and followed the directions. Worked great!
Russ |
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I agree... |
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Rod and flush?
Don't take the radiator off and let a radiator shop get near it. When they remove the tanks and rod the tubes, the tubes are damaged beyond repair and the solder will not hold after they replace the tanks. Basically, a radiator shop can ruin a radiator. You may not be able to find a radiator shop because the EPA has just about put those guys out of business.
Get a new radiator such as Modine, for example, and you will not be taking it back off again in six months. Prestone has a flushing solution that works pretty good because the chemists at Prestone knows more about radiators than we do. Always use Prestone 50/50 antifreeze coolant . It is 50% antifreeze mixed with 50% distilled water. Continued use of tap water will fill the smaller coolant passages with calcium deposits, or worse, if it is 'gyp" water. I used distilled water in my windshield washer tank and radiator. When Prestone came out with their 50/50 mix, I only use distilled water in my windshield washer tank with a pint of windshield washer antifreeze. Don't use more than a pint because it is alcohol and will damage the plastic washer components. |
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You must have some great rad. shops near you. I've had several done the way I explaned ....at quality professional shops and never had a problem. Of course buying a new unit is the way to go but sometimes the money just isn't there.
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I used to have a flush tool I built, patterned it after a really old one I saw once. You would remove the T-stat and hook it to the t-stat housing which is bolted back to the engine. It had a garden hose and an air hose. Let the system fill with water and hit the air hose breifly. It usually took several cycles to bring all the scale out of the block. On a GM I always pinched off the heater hoses because I did blow a heater core once, never did on any other make though. I always did it back through the radiator and all the crap will come through, out through the top hose. If you do build one, put a check valve in the water side, you don't want shop air pressure into your water system.
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The flush solutions work ok in the radiators. You will never get all the crap out of the block unless you knock out a freeze plug. I learned this long ago. We had flushed for a long time both ways through the block. We then knoced out a plug on both sides and the lower part of the water jackets were still full of rust and scale. Unfortunately this is not practical in all vehicles but if you have clearance it is your best bet.
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