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Old 05-20-2004, 10:13 PM
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radius arm bushings79 ford f250

alright ive looked high & low did not find anything closeso here goes

1979 ford F 250 camper special 2wd 460 4bbl twin i beam suspension single caliper disc breaks
they say to cut rivits off the bushing brackets that hold the "radius arms" my queastion is what diameter and length and grade of bolts to use anf is there any snafu's i should anticipate?

i've had this gas guzzler for 17 years 253,000 miles @ 5 miles to the gallon it was stolen in 1988 on cristmas morning and i got her back its a damn tough truck and im sure i'll get it to 500,000 sooner or later ....later @ these gas prices

if you know i'd really appreciate the imput
thanks. slowride 66

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Old 05-20-2004, 11:21 PM
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We use a torch or grind the heads off then a punch to knock out rivets. Drill out the holes to 3/8. then grade 8 bolts however long you need. It can be done without punching rivets by unbolting from axle then a come-along to pull axle forward. Which ever looks easier to you. Good Luck!!
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Old 05-21-2004, 05:07 AM
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Snkbyt's right. i used a come-a-long to give me the little needed clearance to get it apart, and then back together....

but if your gonna cut them off, use grade 8 bolts at least 3/8" thick, shouldn't take any longer than an inch....... 3/4" long ought to get it, (but don't take my word, i've never replaced the rivits).....with lockwashers and loctite.

on a side note, i have a 72 F250, speedo wasn't working when i got it in 1994, it had been a delivery truck for a local nursery.... no telling which 100k the speedo went out on, but i hope it's good for another 150-200k miles now..... if i could only figure out a damn steering rag joint replacement that was worth a crap.......... and for gas to come on down....
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Old 05-21-2004, 08:08 AM
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79 ford f250

thanks and wow will that twin i beam really move that far 'cause i;d rather not tale a torch to my old girl


as far as that rag joint goes ive never found a part that will work as well or last as long as the original sometimes ill use a used original than a new one from the B.S. parts house 2 suggestions try & see if napa has a liftime warrenty and also the NPD.link.net
they are close to me but i havent bought from them yey a little priceylet me know how you make out ok?
thanks again rob
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Old 05-21-2004, 09:50 AM
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i disconnected my coil springs from the upper perches, (2 bolts either side.) and that, along with having the I beams unbolted, gave me enough 'slop' to pull it all out. mr. Big Prybar sure came in handy. the come-along was more useful in getting it all back together. start the radius rods in first, then i attached to the tranny X member, and ratcheted the I beams into place. definitely a 2 man job.

gonna check out napa now. that place kind of amazes me. you never know what you'll find............ thanks

cl.

edit for clarity; i dropped the i beams completely out of their mounts also. i mean, the whole front end came off, but i was replacing all the bushings.... so if your doing it to replace just the rad. rod bushings, do yourself a favor and do the i beam bushes and king pins too.
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Old 05-21-2004, 11:15 AM
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Thumbs up

What Larry said...

If the rivets need to be removed, there is a FORD TSB on how to go about it properly to obtain safe results. Don't blow the rivet heads off. I have an E-373 sitting here now that someone got a little too happy with a hot wrench...
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Old 05-22-2004, 04:35 AM
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Like Kultulz said, it is easy to take part of the frame with you using a heat wrench. I would grind the rivits if you really need to remove them. I wouldn't take them out if you can get around it. If you do, recheck the bolts after driving it for a while, to make sure they are still tight.
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Old 05-22-2004, 02:34 PM
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This question was asked way back but I forget how long ago. I posted some pictures in my photo album from the old hotrodders forum showing the job being done by removing the rivets. Ford still sells the brackets so you can install new brackets with the bushing kit. It can be done both ways but at two of the shops I've worked at it was done with this method as it is rather quick and painless once you've done a few. I will post a link to our photo album as it is not currently being used anymore since we have a new photo gallery with this board.

PS. We usually notch the rivets with a cut-off wheel and then blast the heads off them with an air-chisel.

Old Photo Album


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Old 05-24-2004, 06:20 PM
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ok thats pretty kool but now i crawl under there and a notice only one rivet for some reason i was thinking that it was all rivets im gonna do that job after i pull the starter and see if thats why it made that horrible noise the flywheel(flex plate) has been loosing teeth for a while . i imagine it looks like a jerry springer trailer park queen . im sorry don't laugh at that its wrong.what i also need to know is how to post pictures on this web site and i'll try to document it for future ford fans to appreciate once again thank u thank u thank you very much this is the coolest place my PC & I have ever been .
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Old 05-24-2004, 07:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rob Keller
what i also need to know is how to post pictures on this web site and i'll try to document it for future ford fans to appreciate
Every member gets his/her own photo gallery. You can see members gallery by either clicking on their avatar (picture under their username) or the box that says "gallery" in their posts. Once you are logged in you should be able to click on your gallery and on the right hand side should be "upload photo" link. You use your board screen-name and password to also upload photos to your personal gallery. If you have trouble you can post a thread in the 'Site Suggestions & Help' forum and Jon or other members will help you out. Welcome aboard.


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Old 06-05-2004, 10:09 AM
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Talking 79 ford f250

once again thanks to every one for the support and advise it was very helpful.
i'm glad to report SUCCESS the hardest part was the parts trying to get the booger eating moron's (i also call em "less on's) to get me the right parts! gees.... three trips to napa . I knew that camera phone would come in handy. i was gonna take pic s but it started to rain and i got pretty greasy. the driver side was easy 3 7/16 grade 8 bolts 1 rivet and the big one. a spud wrench and a set of 'c' clamp vise grips to line er up the passenger side needed the help of a come along.

word of advise when ordering your parts make sure you order the radius arm bushing"kit" you'll get 3 pieces of bushing 2 washers and a big nut napa part #274-9151 line-ncp and 4 7/16 x1-1/4 grade 8 lop loc nuts 4 per side 8washers per side.

all & all probably brought the front end up 2-3 inches and took alot of slop out of the steering. if you cant drive 55 you could also use a double top loc as a jamb nut and tread lock

thank again and keep it sunnyside up and in between the ditches

slowride66
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