Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board - View Single Post - Rafters need to be raised higher...
View Single Post
  #14 (permalink)  
Old 05-02-2004, 03:16 PM
Cliff Elikofer Cliff Elikofer is offline
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: n/a
Age: 27
Posts: 32
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thanks Bill

I went to the company that built my shop and I talked to the engineer that works for them. He said the blue print that I have now will work fine. I told him I was going to build a support around the lift to support the trusses bottom cord. The blue print in the above post is what I was going by from memory and is wrong. I went out and did some measuring before I went and talked to the engineer about my new blue print (the company calls that 10' and I have no clue why they do that, it's 9'6'...not 10'). The bottom cord is actually 9' 6'' from the concrete to the bottom cord. As of right now, I have the support up and the lift up as well. I don't have the lift totally installed and the bottom cord has not been cut yet. I just have the side post put up and the top bolted on the lift. The support that is built around the lift is treated 4x4 lumber and is nailed together with 2x4 purlin hangers. The bottom and top cords that are in my shop are 2x6's and the purlins are 2x4's. My trusses are 4' off center. I have two trusses that will be modified. Before I cut the purlins out and cut out the bottom cord. I will nail some 2x4 together and put them up to support the top cord. Then the middle cord will be cut to length and them put up using truss hangers. I will then cut the purlins angles just like the factory did and nail them up as well with the hangers. After that is done, I will cut the bottom cord out. Now the middle cord will be the bottom cord, which will set right on top of the support that is built around the lift. The only problem I might have is the pull up door can not be opened all the way while a long bed vehicle is on the lift like a long bed truck or extended cab truck. I have a heater that is in front of the lift that I will have to relocate cause I don't wont the heat from the heater blistering the paint or getting the grill hot to the point it starts to melt. Once I relocate the heater, I can move the lift forward and that will clear a long bed truck and the pull up door can be opened all the way. That takes care of one problem but it will generate another problem. My heater has a 20' long tube that comes from the heater. The heater is bolted to the trusses and when its on, the heat is shot straight down and a vehicle can not be to close to the heater or the paint will blister. I will probably leave the heater where's it at. But I will not be able to open the pull up door all the way. I can open it about 3/4 of the way. To me, that is not a problem. But its the other person that I'm worried about. If a friend comes over and were working on something and I forget to tell them about how high the door can be raised when a long vehicle is on the lift (that is what I'm worried about). What I could do is, put some kind of stop in the rails so that the door will only raise so high. That way, I don't have to worry about it. But I will have to get used to the door being only raised only 3/4 of the way up even thou a vehicle is not on the lift(Ooo...the decisions I have to make...I know I created
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	rafter blue print ii.jpg
Views:	247
Size:	26.6 KB
ID:	1645  
Reply With Quote