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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 09-30-2010, 01:31 PM
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i dont have a compressor within 5 miles of me. i pulled the dip and it was the same level. looks like a lil water got in the breather cap but the oil in the pan shows no signs of water. what kind of damage can i do to the motor if i start it with water in the cylindars

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 09-30-2010, 01:45 PM
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water wont compress nearly as well as water..It can "hydro-lock" or "hydraulic" depending on who you ask. IE the water wont compress any farther and something will leave the party in expensive fashion. Also, water will compromise any lubricant in the engine.

If youre too cheap to changed compromised oil, I dont know what to tell you...especially if your motor is a flat tappet, since these have trouble with oils. Why didnt you have the carb covered anyway?

Regardless, I would pull the blughs to keep the engine from locking up when you turn it over, and apply some sort of spray lube...Id use WD-40 personally since its Water Displacer formula 40. Id change the oil and filter and think about going through your carb or using some sort of octane booster that eliminates condensation. This wont be terribly costly, if you are meticulous and have a lil bit of luck; you'll be fine.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 09-30-2010, 02:02 PM
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Water in a cylinder can crack a piston, bend a rod or break a crank if you turn it with the spark plug in place. Remove all the plugs and turn the motor over 2 complete revolutions clockwise with a socket on the harmonic damper retaining bolt head on the end of the crank. Spray the electrodes of the plugs with carburetor cleaner to remove any water. Do this out of doors and don't breathe the cleaner. Watch your eyes. Dry the plugs off thoroughly and install. Unbolt the carb and dump the fuel. Refill with fresh fuel through the inlet hole. Reinstall the carb. Loosen the oil drain plug and unscrew it just enough to drain any water out. Water will be on the bottom and will come out first. Tighten the plug back. Yeah, I know it's messy, but the alternative is dropping all the new oil.

With a brand new cam and lifters in the motor, you don't want to be turning the engine over with the starter motor for very long until firing the motor. That will wipe off all the assembly lube that the cam needs at startup and you won't like the results. With a new cam, you need to fire the motor and bring the r's up right away. So, don't re-install the carb dry with the idea that you will let the pump fill the float bowl. Bad idea.

After the initial lube that you slathered on the lobes wears off (just a few seconds), the only thing lubing the cam and lifters is splash lube, so the crank needs to be turning pretty good to prevent poochin' the cam.
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...ips_and_tricks

Last edited by techinspector1; 09-30-2010 at 02:23 PM.
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 09-30-2010, 02:03 PM
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If you don't have a compressor you could use a shop vac but it'll take a LOT longer. I'd use this as a reason to get a compressor. odds are your oil is fine.

you need to get the water out.
the rest is subject to opinion, I like my opinion best but others may differ.
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 09-30-2010, 02:27 PM
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I'm kinda embarrassed to even say this, but when I first got my 383 going to break in the cam it ran hot. 230ish. I didn't have the rear radiator working quite right. The engine got hot enough that it dieseled. I didn't have a driveshaft hooked up so I couldn't throw it in gear. I knew of no other way to stop the engine other than to pour water down the engine. So I got the water hose and sprayed enough water down the carb to make the engine stop. It was probably about 2-3 cups worth. Afterwards, you could see water sitting in the intake and the carb was boiling the water that got in it. I let it sit until the next day.

To fix this, I removed the carb, drained the water / gas out of it and thoroughly cleaned it with carb cleaner. It already had rust forming on the bottom of the carb by the time I got to it. Nothing a little scrubbing didn't take care of.

I cleaned the remaining standing water in the intake out with blue shop rags, pulled the plugs, sprayed a little WD-40 into each cylinder and turned her over a little. I would spray a little more WD-40 and turn it over until I felt I got enough in there.

Afterwards, I drained the oil, put in fresh oil, reinstalled everything and it fired right up like nothing happened. Hell, I even forget one of the blue shop paper towels in the intake, it was shoved far down into the runner, and it at it up and spit it out. LOL. Me and my brother wondered why it blew a little smoked when I reved it. We found pieces of shop towel that looked like a hampster and a lighter got to it.

You'll be OK.
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 09-30-2010, 02:56 PM
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Yeah , Good catch there Techinspector . I forgot this was the same guy with the new camshaft . Definitely don't want to be spinning it over with the starter . Also I want to mention that the carburetor can be filled through the carburetor vent . Just use an old dishwashing liquid bottle and cut the flare off of the tip . Watch down the throttle bores and you'll see when you have enough in it . And follow all of techinspectors advice . As always he is right on the mark .
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Old 09-30-2010, 06:35 PM
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 09-30-2010, 09:27 PM
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i checked oil after as well. the level hadnt changed and after running it 10 miles or so i checked again and there was no milkiness to it either. i think i lucked out. like i said, when i pulled the plugs, they were not wet. when i cranked it no water spit out of the cylindars. i was sleeping when i wokee up to the rain and i jumpeed out of bed immediately and covered the motor with a garbage bag. when i took off the carb, there was no sign of moisture in the intake. if any catastrophic were to happen it would have already happened. correct me if im wrong. thats why im still posting threads
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Old 10-01-2010, 06:28 AM
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If it was going to break it would have. You should be good to go.
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Old 10-01-2010, 07:37 AM
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Dry plugs only means the water didn't get to them, doesn't mean it's not in there

it's running so that's great but not changing that oil is living on borrowed time in my opinion. If you used anything like WD or carb cleaner to dry it out you might have also thinned the oil. I think an oil change is an absolute must considering you might have rusted metal mixed in it. A tiny amount maybe....like sandpaper all day long.
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 10-01-2010, 08:17 AM
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I would have to say that you got out there and got the engine covered in time . It looks like you are good to go . I would run it as normal and not give it another thought. Unless you poured a cup of carb cleaner or WD40 in the engine you did not dilute the oil enough to worry about and the oil filter is there to catch any solids that got into the oil . Glad it all worked out for you . Happy Hotrodding ............. Allan
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